Bearings?

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pnolanIH8MUD

pnolanIH8MUD

10 Year
Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Threads
40
Messages
240
Location
Austin, TX
Website
activthrust.com
On my 2002 100 series with 145k, I had an issue with a drive axle that led me to inspect my wheel tightness (6&12 tests).

When I grab the tire at 6 & 12 with the car lifted on that side, I can feel the tire move through a back, middle and forward position. I feel some play vertically and hear some squeaking. Horizontally, I don't feel much. Being untrained in this front end, it feels to me like bearing slack but I just replaced a bad bearing in my wifes all wheel drive subaru and it definitely had sounds coming from it with a lot of pull to the right. I really don't notice pulling but at times steering feels loose, and felt a tendency to hydroplane the other day in rain.

Any thoughts?
 
Can't get a complete story without jacking that corner up and repeating the test.

Also, a bad bearing will not necessarily cause a pull, or hydro planing.

After I fixed my bad bearings, the front end only made less noise.
 
When's the last time the bearings were serviced? I believe it's a 30k interval.
 
Better safe than sorry, Just Differentials sells bearings, and washer kits for pretty cheap. I think they also sell the 54mm hub socket. If you need local help let me know.
 
I always thought if you could grab the wheel at 6 and 12 and rock it back and forth like that it was more than likely ball joints. Just my $.02.
 
Gottagetone said:
Better safe than sorry, Just Differentials sells bearings, and washer kits for pretty cheap. I think they also sell the 54mm hub socket. If you need local help let me know.
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I am about to have to replace some bearings. Would you recommend the Just Differentials over the OEM ones?
 
The inner is Koyo and the other is Timken (IIRC) and Toyota has superseded them that way. I have sold gobs of them. The same wheel bearings actually fit quite a few of the LCs and other trucks.

Just going from memory since I'm not at the shop today but I think the inners are 55 and liters are 28. I would def recommend replacing the claw and lock washers and nuts, and the seals. Cheap insurance.
 
smm3 said:
I am about to have to replace some bearings. Would you recommend the Just Differentials over the OEM ones?
Click to expand...

Trunk Monkey said:
They're almost all the same - Koyo or Timken. Just depends on price. I'd use CDan for them.
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Yep, they are not Just Differentials own brand of bearings. Give em a shout or call CDan or call TRDParts4U, all are good suppliers with great prices.
 
Thanks for the information Sam.

As far as checking the bearings, how will I know that I need to replace one or all of them? I have 174K miles on the originals.

I know I need to replace at least one because I took my truck in to have the bearings repacked and my mechanic said both of my CVs were shot and the total cost was going to be more than I could swing because I had just put a new compressor in my home AC. I told him to put if back together and I paid him for his time. Planning on dong it all myself soon though.
 
FWIW, the feeling and sound of bearing play is a crisp click with no resistance between the stops. This test can also expose ball joint play, but that fells very different. More of a soft pull feel.
- try packing and adjusting your bearings first. Its possible that this is all that is needed unless you are hearing obvious bearing noise.
- Once that's done, do the 6&12 test again. If something is still moving its likely to be upper or lower ball joints [both of which are replaceable] or other suspension bushes.

When I was buying parts from Onur for the front axle repacement, I had bearings on the list. Onur said they are effectively lifetime bearings if properly maintained, and that he of very few that had failed. Just another data point.
 
Drove to SA today from Austin. I'm hearing a more pronounced dragging sound on the front left at 20-45 mph with deceleration. Noise will occur with backlash of deceleration. Forward torque brings some noise. I will also mention that I began towing a 3500lb trailer with weight distribution hitch this month. In dialing in the hitch could I have overloaded the front end?

Also noting: During drive steering pulls lightly left. Occasionally truck will veer when running over irregular surfaces. It often feels like getting hit by a strong breeze. (then I don't see trees blowing).
 
Great article on bearing nuts being loose enough to cause brake issue. Alamo Toyota dealer in SA said I need to re-pack bearings, change cv's due to boots (which are intact actually so they kinda lost my trust)...$1440 estimated including brake fluid flush.

How much for all parts and to buy new air tools...
 
pnolanIH8MUD said:
Great article on bearing nuts being loose enough to cause brake issue. Alamo Toyota dealer in SA said I need to re-pack bearings, change cv's due to boots (which are intact actually so they kinda lost my trust)...$1440 estimated including brake fluid flush.

How much for all parts and to buy new air tools...
Click to expand...

If you take this job to the dealer. Their service manual will state that it should take about 2.5 hours of labor to get the hub off and get new bearings in and repacked. and put the hub back on. Bearings are about $60 each. Your total bill should be about $350 at most. If your boots are fine and your front end isn't bouncing when you turn corners or accelerate, your CVs are fine and that service advisor deserves a big :flipoff2:

The job I did in that thread referenced above cost me $18 and took me an hour and a half and I got everything removed with a hammer, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket, and a screwdriver. Didn't have to use the special socket to get nuts off because they were already loose to start with. I won't tell you how I tightened them back up because I don't want any flak from anyone for doing it that way, but lets just say you can tighten them without the special socket...
 
Boot kits are $30, unless your boots are cracked then you should be fine. As slider said, its an easy job, I have the tools and I live in N Austin. Im happy to help, I have done the job in my driveway, you supply the parts, crease, paper towels and beer and we are good to go.
 
I don't have any of the usual clicking associated with bad cvs but I have felt a hopping feeling when towing ... not frequent enough to be a shudder but noticeable.

Ive been assuming that the hopping was due to my right cv not being clipped in on the outside hub. But also wondering if the same screwball who stripped my hub bolt reassembled the cv circlip.
 
Forgot to mention that if you have to push the brake pedal almost all the way in before the brakes engage. Fixing this hub issue will fix that brake symptom. It will also tighten up the tracking /steering of your LC.
 
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