Battery to Block Ground - Success (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 18, 2015
Threads
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285
Location
Southeastern Virginia
1995 FZJ80.

So, I’m in a bit of a pickle. The lousy original factory negative battery terminal on my battery to block cable will no longer tighten...and I can’t seem to loosen the bolt on the block to remove/replace the cable altogether.

Found this thread...

Holy S#!T!! Dealer Negative Battery Cable....

...and agree this isn’t rocket science.

So, any options for just cutting the original terminal off and replacing it without removing the cable from the truck?

I just don’t see how I could use one of those hammer crimp tools with it in the truck.

I have a mil clamp on the positive terminal and would like to do the same on the negative, but at this point I’ll settle for anything secure and reliable.

I’ve not been a pansie with that bolt on the block, but it’s on super tight and I’m afraid of rounding it or damaging a knock sensor or something. Would rather leave it be, as I’m not as proficient as many of you guys with torches and tricks to remove old, stuck bolts.

The original cable seems just fine. I simply want to get a replacement terminal on there that is secure.

Here’s what I’m dealing with...

7BEA19DA-67D3-458B-89B5-8CF04CB0399C.jpeg


Thanks guys & gals. All suggestions are welcome. I’m not in a huge rush.
 
Yeah, that style of crimper will do a decent job. Replace the ground completely - go buy some 1/0 or 2/0 gauge marine cable (or welding cable if you wish) for battery to block. Toss the factory ends and use military style clamps. Make a new battery to body ground while you're at it (8g or 6g is good enough). Get decent lugs from a marine store sized to the cable you choose and for the bolt sizes. Make it 'pretty' with some adhesive lined heatshrink at each end of each cable.

Edit: just make sure the crimper you get will handle the range of lug sizes you need to crimp, there's various sizes available on ebay....

cheers,
george.
 
Thanks guys. Going to try again to get the bolt off the block since it’s been PB blasted overnight. We’ll see what happens. If I can’t manage, I’ll use a hand crimper for now and then have a professional remove that bolt next time I take it in. Appreciate the recipes.
 
In case you haven't gotten the bolt out of the block yet, a trick that I find helps (if possible with yours) is to let the engine get to operating temp. before you try to remove the bolt. Cold metal seems to be more stubborn than warm or hot. Just a suggestion. The PB will flow a lot easier in to the threads as well. If the PB doesn't work, try brake fluid. We use it on frozen up O2 sensors at our Toyota dealership. Usually works pretty well. Hope this helps!
 
In case you haven't gotten the bolt out of the block yet, a trick that I find helps (if possible with yours) is to let the engine get to operating temp. before you try to remove the bolt. Cold metal seems to be more stubborn than warm or hot. Just a suggestion. The PB will flow a lot easier in to the threads as well. If the PB doesn't work, try brake fluid. We use it on frozen up O2 sensors at our Toyota dealership. Usually works pretty well. Hope this helps!

Hey - thanks a lot! That’s a great tip. I’ll try that today. These are the kind of things that come with experience, which I’m trying to gain. Thanks again.
 
No Problem. The funny thing with stuff like this is that you usually don't come up with the ideas yourself. I learned these things from older fellers in the business and just adapted them and found that they work. In most cases, anyways! Good Luck!
 
Everything you ever wanted to know about making cables:

Making Your Own Battery Cables by Compass Marine How To

Waytek is a good source for military terminals. Mouser stocks high quality lugs in every size.

To temporarily deal with a battery lug that wouldn't tighten, I used a spring-loaded punch to place a bunch of dimples around the inside. It raises the surrounding metal.
 
For stuck bolts try a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Works better than any commercial product, but you have to keep it in a glass or metal container because it eats pretty much all plastics. You also have to shake the hell out of it to mix it up because the two fluids separate quickly.

And if you are making cables on the bench and not in the truck, why not solder the connections? A propane torch and some flux core solder along with some heat-shrink tubing makes it look almost factory! It is not hard at all if you can get at everything, and while a bench vice makes it easier, one is not really required, you can use vice grips.

Just an unsolicited $.02, but these work for me. Hope this helps.
 
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Or kerosene/ATF (it's the original Red's formula)
 
A great instant fix is to use a self tapping screw, place it at the junction where the terminal opens and meets the battery terminal, screw it in tightly, The thread will bite into the lead battery terminal and the cable connector, easy 1 minute job until you can get the cable free from the block.

Regards

Dave
 
With the battery box removed, I removed the 3 bolts holding the power steering reservoir. This allowed me to pull it forward enough to get easy access to the block bolt using a 6" extension and deep socket attached to a 3' breaker bar. The bolt came out right quick. For whatever reason getting the bolt back in the block was a bigger hassle.
 
Guys - thanks to all of you. Especially to @thabruiser and @NLXTACY at Wits’ End.

Got that damn bolt off this afternoon!

Bringing the engine to operating temp I’m sure helped.

I was a bit discouraged last night, as I didn’t want to half ass it with some lame crimp.

Now I have that entire cable off the truck...

1D6B4867-4D1E-4EA8-94A1-D17F29D20672.jpeg


@NLXTACY gave me the extra umph of motivation to go after it again - and do it right.

I’ll find a top quality replacement and button it all back up.

Yet another testament to the really cool folks on this Forum. Not only solid advice for novices, but motivation as well. Outstanding.

Kind of rare these days to find both in the same place.
 

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