Why does so much of this maintenance-type cable come with SAE hardware? Like as if there was enough of the old Detroit autos on the road to justify it. I either have to split a set of wrenches for a 1/2" to go with the Cruiser on the trail, or, I have to switch hardware, and unfortunately the square end of the bolt isn't something that I can easily find in metric. Yeah, right, like I'm going to struggle with an adjustable wrench.
Personally, I'm looking to replace old original parts, but I don't want to deviate too far from the spirit of the original, which is simple, and clean looking.
As far as the crimp ring terminals (your photo of the negative terminal above), the thick nylon insulation around where it crimps isn't necessary. Just use heat shrink, it will appear ten times better, and you get much more control over the crimping tool. Usually the nylon will slip off of a ring/pigtail/bullet/spade type connector with a pair of pliers, or buy them without it. With my limited experience, I seem to find that the naked terminals, and non-insulated butt-connectors are much less of a struggle, both for the finished compact look and space they take up, and the ease of crimping a reliably secure connection that doesn't slip out after your crimp. Personally, I run my extra grounds to the firewall, inspection window on the bellhousing, or fenders, as it keeps the negative terminal free to be easily removed and installed.
I keep one of the plastic caps that come with the batteries in my tool bag or box, so that the first thing is removing the negative and covering it before I start work. I don't feel like a covered battery terminal is of major consequence with the hood down.
Don't forget the grounding cable between the frame and the starter. Also, inspect/clean/renew any screws and female threading that the ring terminals anchor to.
When I bought my 40, it had unbelievable corrosion. It was on the battery tray and on top of the frame. The outgassing of the battery had created a spot on the hood, where it lost some original paint and left rust. Those chain-autostore green and red felt terminal washers are nice, but if you actually NEED them, then maybe your battery electrolyte is trying to tell you something, or you have a charging problem.
Personally, I'm looking to replace old original parts, but I don't want to deviate too far from the spirit of the original, which is simple, and clean looking.
As far as the crimp ring terminals (your photo of the negative terminal above), the thick nylon insulation around where it crimps isn't necessary. Just use heat shrink, it will appear ten times better, and you get much more control over the crimping tool. Usually the nylon will slip off of a ring/pigtail/bullet/spade type connector with a pair of pliers, or buy them without it. With my limited experience, I seem to find that the naked terminals, and non-insulated butt-connectors are much less of a struggle, both for the finished compact look and space they take up, and the ease of crimping a reliably secure connection that doesn't slip out after your crimp. Personally, I run my extra grounds to the firewall, inspection window on the bellhousing, or fenders, as it keeps the negative terminal free to be easily removed and installed.
I keep one of the plastic caps that come with the batteries in my tool bag or box, so that the first thing is removing the negative and covering it before I start work. I don't feel like a covered battery terminal is of major consequence with the hood down.
Don't forget the grounding cable between the frame and the starter. Also, inspect/clean/renew any screws and female threading that the ring terminals anchor to.
When I bought my 40, it had unbelievable corrosion. It was on the battery tray and on top of the frame. The outgassing of the battery had created a spot on the hood, where it lost some original paint and left rust. Those chain-autostore green and red felt terminal washers are nice, but if you actually NEED them, then maybe your battery electrolyte is trying to tell you something, or you have a charging problem.
