Batteries

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So do the higher amp converters draw more power when not in use than the stock low amp OEM converters? I parked my truck for mearly 6 weeks at SEATAC last summer. I was kind of worried that it wouldn't start. But at 12:30 am she fired right up. The radio I put in it was a used one out of a stock Canadian market truck.
 
prado t said:
the yellow tops are deep cycle and starting ,awesome for winching and I winch a lot. For you guys that have the 24v systems disconnect your converter if you are going to park it for awhile it should not draw then. Unless you have what scalp has. Also if you disconnect ,take the pos.+ off and leave it grounded.
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FWIW, greg_b has had the same problem with yellow tops. His 24V converter is hooked up to a relay so when it's not running it's disconnected, so that's not the issue. More the issue is that AGMs/gels don't seem to like running in series, at least not for too long. How long have your yellow tops been working, Arron?

some good info here:
http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf

As much as I like the idea of agm/gel batts (especially the non-gassing) I'm trying something else in the 74. I'll use a gel/agm for a 3rd, 12V battery though.
 
I have two red tops in my BJ70, but it is twelve volt. In my old 79 diesel 40 series which was 24 volt i had to keep changing the position of the batteries. The first one in the series always seemed to lose power, after a year it would be down to under 13 volts. So i would swap them around and it was good to go again. This was with AGMs.
 
I run two Globelite deep cycle batteries that I picked up from Polar Battery on Boundary in Burnaby. $85 a pop when I bought them back in 2005 and still running strong. Fit the battery trays perfect and have accessory posts that have the leads attached that run to the solar converter.
 
I've mentioned it here before, but I got 7 years out of a Globelite in my 70. It wasn't a deep cycle though. I finally managed to kill it when camping one time my alternator went south, something drew power all night and flattened it so bad that it wouldn't take a jump with regular jumper cables. It did start when I used 2/0 welding cable...
Those are good batteries.
 
thought i would mention this for someone looking for a deal on factory seconds or blems
EXIDE on annacis island.. don't no if they are any good or not (quality wise).but i have grabbed a couple over the years and all have worked fine.

they get pallets of brand new batteries there that have been damaged ,scratched or squished . and they will let them go out the back door for cash for there beer fund , depending on what is damaged they can have quite a variety there sometimes . my last two regular old starting batteries where $20.00 each 750cc
 
I'm running an Optima yellow top. Even with all my lights and the 1300 watt stereo, I still don't kill it. It's 7 yrs old.

Talk to Steve at the meating. He's carrying all 3 colours.
 
Granite Grinder said:
Never had an issue with the blue tops either.
GG
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blue and yellow tops are the same battery, the blue jsut appeal to marine guys more..according to our interstate rep.
 
AGM = BAD for 24V series trucks. For some reason it seems internal resistance differences are more pronounced, and if there are ANY issues that cause imbalanced charging...then look out; typically a gel cell will not recover. There is a use and market for AGM, and they can last a long time. Check out various detailed sites or techy folks and see just how particular and exact charging must be to take advantage of all the AGM offers.

Wet cell deep cycle, or the dual purpose (deep cycle/starting) batteries seem much less particular to charging anomalies that a 24V system can offer. This is where I am likely to go for my next set. I fancy a AGM battery for a 3rd battery, so I can use and abuse it...leaving the main bank to simply start the truck and run any 24V stuff that I need.

Globelite and Deka are two leading contenders in the search right now.

gb
 
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trooper+ said:
blue and yellow tops are the same battery, the blue jsut appeal to marine guys more..according to our interstate rep.
Click to expand...

Yet Optima's web site gives different spec's for Blue and Yellow. :confused:

GG
 
So after all this info (thanks everyone), I think I will go to Costco and pick up a Optima when they go on the sale mentioned. But I'm still confused as to what Optima would be the best for my application?

That application being a V8 fj40, that spends a lot of its time sitting in the driveway. There is nothing on it that would be any kind of drain (no offroad lights, no winch, no stereo), although I would like to plan for the future and allow for these items.
Also, I don't know if this matters or not, but my current battery sits behind the passenger seat in a plastic battery box, with heavy gauge cables (cant remember what size) running to the necessary parts.
 
I should have mentioned this to you last night when you were here

*Prices include tax and the $5 battery enviro/hippie charge*

Red top
34/78DT 800cca / 1000ca $180
35 series 720cca / 910ca $165

Yellow top
34/78DT 750cca / 870ca $210
 
"smart" charger

While shopping for a new bbq today at Canadian Tire ('bought a Coleman 'road trip' portable unit) they had some 'smart' 12v chargers on sale. So being not so smart, I bought one. Anyways, I'll hook it up and see how well it works...news at 11.
 
another stupid question

So I hook this spanky new charger up, like I would any charger (or jumper cables even), set it 8 amps (has options for 2,8, and 12amps), and walk back into the house to sit down with a nice cold canadian beverage that came with a t-shirt I bought at the local beer & wine, and start reading the instructions.

The first thing it says under "charging with battery in vehicle", is NOT to hook up the negative to the battery terminal, which is of course what I had done prior to reading said instructions, and what I have always done.

Now the fine mix of cold water, barley and yeast must have stirred some nuerons in my brain, so I went outside to check on it. I disconnected the negative clip and reconnected it to an ever so slighty rusty seat bracket (battery is behind passenger seat), and this fancy Motomaster Eliminator charger just resumed charging at 13 something volts (I can also switch it to see what percent of charge I am at,,,4%).

So..wtf is the difference? I know in shop class in high school or somewhere along the path of life someone mentioned never connect your negative jumper cable to the battery terminal, always ground it to chassis or whatever...I'm assuming there is a good reason for this..and of course I have never done so..so Why?
 
Gas leaking from battery + spark from connecting charger/jumper and Jeff will have a new hairdoo
GG
 
I guess that is why you always clamp the positive first and negative last.
 
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