Hey fellas! So my 04 Cruiser popped an ABS code that indicates that my left front wheel speed sensor is no good. My first question is whether or not there may be a quick fix that doesn't require a full replacement that anybody may have discovered. If not, and I do have to replace it, I was hoping to find it cheaper than the $220 I found at rockauto which was the cheapest I could find using google. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Bad wheel speed sensor. Any suggestions for where to get one the cheapest?
- Thread starter gsxrguru2
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rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
This is one of the parts I wouldn't replace with anything but Toyota OEM.
Contact Cdan or Beno, here on Mud. American Toyota in NM has been very good to me and many other Mudders.
Contact Cdan or Beno, here on Mud. American Toyota in NM has been very good to me and many other Mudders.
Have you tried to clean it? Do a google search how to, if its not on mud
I had to replace my on 04 LC as well about a year ago. Got one from Toyota. Replacing it was a pain. Done by my experienced mechanic with me watching - it was baked in so he had to break it in pieces. Simple job took around two hours. I am in Boston so could be the result of weather - even though housing seems to be plastic. Just want to warn you if you plan to do the job yourself.
The front ones do not have O-Rings like the rear ones do. Water gets in around it, the steel forging starts to rust, the rust expands and crushes the sensor (and locks it in place forever). At least that's what happened to mine. I had to remove the rotor and inner dust cover and drive it out from the inside. Tried to drill it out from the back but there is no way to prevent bits of wire and debris from falling into the chamber - which needs to stay very debris free.
Sorry to sound like a downer but as odessit said, plan for the worst.
As far as price, I think I paid around $160 from a Toyota parts warehouse. I can get the info later if you need it. I'm at work now.
Good luck!
Sorry to sound like a downer but as odessit said, plan for the worst.
As far as price, I think I paid around $160 from a Toyota parts warehouse. I can get the info later if you need it. I'm at work now.
Good luck!
Forgot to add: After getting the old one out I had to clean out the built up rust using a dremel before the new one would even fit in. After that I coated the hole with silicon grease to protect the metal but probably should have painted the raw steel first. After you get the rust cleaned out there is plenty of room for paint so I would recommend painting it if you have the time to let it dry.
- Thread starter
- #7
Hey guys just wanted to thank you all for the input. I bought the part last month and finally got around to doing it today. As mentioned, mine was (is) also stuck. Tried drilling it out too without much luck but I'm actually lining up to do a rotor replacement in a week so it looks like I'll be tackling that project then when I can access the other side. So much for "that should only take a couple minutes!"
APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
I replaced the front left sensor this week, and had exactly the experience that badlander described.
The sensor is plastic, but rust in its mounting hold had it frozen solid. No way it was coming out [even in bits] from the back. The hub & rotor come off fairly easily, and that's the best shot for this job. Having access to the sensor to drive the bits out is important, and also for removing the rust buildup in teh sensor mounting hole. A standard Dremel with a 1/2 sanding drum is a bit too big to get a good angle on the hole from behind. If you happen to have a Dremel flex drive, that fits perfectly.
When you clear the ABS code, you may find you still have a solid ABS light [or I did in my 99]. Don't panic. It will clear after a short drive. I'm guessing the ABS controller needs to see good sensor signals before it clears the light.
The sensor is plastic, but rust in its mounting hold had it frozen solid. No way it was coming out [even in bits] from the back. The hub & rotor come off fairly easily, and that's the best shot for this job. Having access to the sensor to drive the bits out is important, and also for removing the rust buildup in teh sensor mounting hole. A standard Dremel with a 1/2 sanding drum is a bit too big to get a good angle on the hole from behind. If you happen to have a Dremel flex drive, that fits perfectly.
When you clear the ABS code, you may find you still have a solid ABS light [or I did in my 99]. Don't panic. It will clear after a short drive. I'm guessing the ABS controller needs to see good sensor signals before it clears the light.
Those sensors are fairly common. I've sold a few here and there. MUD price through me is $167.59. Price is the same for either side on the front.
APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
I got my replacement sensor from Sam at Lowe. Great service, and great price.
Call Sam on 800-870-0038
Call Sam on 800-870-0038
uHu
Bridgeburner
My ABS light has been coming and going for a few weeks now. I found that by turning ignition off and on for 1/2 second while in motion would always get the ABS circuit working again. Decided to find the cause of the fault. Shorted the Tc to E1, read the codes, got 31, reset DTCs, took it for a spin, got code 31 again. 31= front right wheel speed sensor. Measured resistance, got around 950 ohms on the LHS (good) and around 900 K ohms on the RHS (bad).
First I was happy because I have a spare sensor from my 2000, which has been sitting in the knuckle since I parked that vehicle for good 4 years ago. Then I read the thread here and got worried, and started planning to change over the complete knuckle/hub assembly, but thought I would check how stuck the sensor was. Started with the spare part, the 2000 (which has a much lower milage than the newer 2004 vehicle). The securing bolt came out very easy. Finger-loose after 1 turn. Twisted the sensor carefully, it moved. Twisted a bit back and forth and it came out easlily. Looks very good, and measures right, around 950 ohms. Tomorrow (I hope) will be the time to get the faulty sensor out. I'm planning to take the hub off, as I saw there wase quite a bit of dust falling into the hole when removing the spare sensor. That wouldn't be good for the wheel bearings. We'll see if I have to drill out the sensor. Tomorrow.
First I was happy because I have a spare sensor from my 2000, which has been sitting in the knuckle since I parked that vehicle for good 4 years ago. Then I read the thread here and got worried, and started planning to change over the complete knuckle/hub assembly, but thought I would check how stuck the sensor was. Started with the spare part, the 2000 (which has a much lower milage than the newer 2004 vehicle). The securing bolt came out very easy. Finger-loose after 1 turn. Twisted the sensor carefully, it moved. Twisted a bit back and forth and it came out easlily. Looks very good, and measures right, around 950 ohms. Tomorrow (I hope) will be the time to get the faulty sensor out. I'm planning to take the hub off, as I saw there wase quite a bit of dust falling into the hole when removing the spare sensor. That wouldn't be good for the wheel bearings. We'll see if I have to drill out the sensor. Tomorrow.
uHu
Bridgeburner
Changed the sensor. The bad sensor broke as soon as I tried to twist it, with very little force. Probably broken already. I had already taken off the hub and dustcover with seal, and had to push the sensor out with a rod and a BFH. Cleaned up the hole and put in the sensor from the old car. Success.
I repacked the bearings one month ago, so I didn't touch them now. Just cleaned up the spindle and reapplied a bit of grease.
I repacked the bearings one month ago, so I didn't touch them now. Just cleaned up the spindle and reapplied a bit of grease.
uHu said:
Glad to hear of your success.
I had to drill out my old sensor when I replaced mine this spring. It was completely gaulded in there. I applied liberal amounts of silicone to the hole when I installed the replacement in hopes of not fighting it so much next time (hopefully there is not a 'next time', but you never know).
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