Auxiliary Fuse Box (1 Viewer)

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Explorer4Hire

Explorer4Hire

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Aug 25, 2015
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I think it is in my best interest to start working on an auxiliary fuse box. I have one set of driving lights already which I have no idea how they are wired, but I am soon to have a set of fogs, winch, and eventually an air compressor and maybe reverse floods down the line as well (the top spots are wired from factory I believe).

BUT... this IS NOT my wheel house. I don't mind wrenching on motors, welding here and there, doing anything really, but wiring scares me to death. I found this video:



Does this guy know whats up? He seems to. I was going to grab the parts in his description and get to work. Could one of the electric gurus in the club check it out? Maybe some of you make them? Looking for a little guidance so I don't end up with a big ol' mess under the hood.

Mahalo!

-Josh
 
Here is another video. I looked around some under the hood this afternoon and there is a lot going on. There were several aftermarket things added to the rig and they are all wired individually. There is a mini air compressor for an air horn, auto start and car alarm stuff, heated seat stuff, driving lights. I’m scared :cry: There is also the factory inverter. I’m gonna need some help.

 
I like wiring. I'll help out. I have a single aux fuse panel with 6 circuits run into the truck (4 rear cargo, 2 left up front), my sub amp, and my horn. Those relay-packed boxes are cool.
 
The wonderlost video above has a complete parts list. Seems doable. Good instructions. What say you? I could get the parts and build it. Then you can help me sort out my mess! I ordered some cool dash switches already for a few things. I’ll pay you in beer and food for the help!
 
@emorth is our Auto electric guru. I have wired a few fise panels in my time as well.
I have one from Amazon that was inexpensive and has provisions for fuses and relays. It isn't waterproof, but it has covers for the top and bottom and would do the job onder the hood (that is where I plan to put this one when I do some wiring updates.
Here it is, it looks like the one the guy in the video used.
https://www.amazon.com/d/Starter-Re...qid=1544754113&sr=8-3&keywords=fuse+relay+box
One comment on the guys fuse panel on the video: I don't know that he needs the big a wire and bus bar on the outside of the box toake that work. It kind of defeats the purpose of having the wire connections covered within the fuse box.
 
The one in the second video made more sense to me. It has a complete parts list too. One thing I noticed in there other videos is that when they installed their light switches they had to tie into the feed from another post ground light switch to allow the dimmer to work properly.
 
If I can add my 2 cents worth (you get what you pay for and that’s probably all it’s worth) the videos don’t clearly address the wire size, length and fuse rating relationship.

The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire not necessarily the device (load) the wire is powering. Obviously, the wire has to be big enough to power the load, and if the wire were to short circuit to ground, the fuse needs to blow before the wire could get hot enough to cause a fire. If the wire was too small a gauge or the fuse was too big, the wire could get hot enough to melt the insulation and possibly cause a fire. Seen the results of this too many times. But, on the flip side, for example, the typical cigarette lighter outlet is protected by a 10 Amp fuse. The iPhone charger normally draws about 1 Amp. If the charger fails, the 10 Amp fuse isn’t going to provide much protection for the charger. The charger will go up in Smoke without blowing the 10 Amp fuse.

When multiple loads are powered from a common fuse (i.e. four 5Amp loads powered from one 20 Amp fuse), if you want to protect a specific load, add a second fuse (5 Amp) in the wire that powers just that one individual load.

Also, the fuses/circuit breakers should be as close to the power source (battery) as possible, again to protect the wire should something happen to cause a short circuit - think accident.

Below is a wire size, wire length and current rating chart.

Hope this helps.


7B3ACDA1-3106-4F64-B6F8-F204927D0733.jpeg
 
I am going to order some different gauges for the project... what I'm gathering is 18 gauge is only suitable for the switch (pre-relay) load and would need to be protected by a fuse lower than the load rating per length on above chart... The relay then should protect the wire leading to the appliance .... or something.... I have a few short spools of wire to order... the second video quickly flashes the gauges being used but you're right, it doesn't explain the relationship to fuses or lengths...
 
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