Aussie Locker Install

[car-car]

Have been half searching for an Aussie Locker for the 40 after reading good reviews here on the tech board for a decent inexpensive auto-locker. Last week, found a deal on a "gently used" Aussie Locker and differential assembly from a guy here locally on craigslist who was upgrading from his current set-up.

Got around to installing it the other night, and it really was a very easy install. It's a pretty simple design, and despite my 1- mechanical skill level, was able to knock it out in a couple hours.

1. - Craigslist find:


2. - Disassembled the locker assembly and cleaned the parts:


3. - Downloaded the manual from aussielocker.com, new diff cover gasket, and some RTV:

 

[car-car]

4. - I had mangled some of the locker springs when disassembling them out of the diff carrier assembly I purchased, so I figured I should replace those.

5. - I didn't want to order and wait for replacement springs from Aussie Locker, so I checked locally. Fastenal in Carlsbad didn't have the right springs, but I found some from DeNault's off Carlsbad Village Dr. that I just needed to cut down.

6. - Replacement springs cut to size.

 

[fj40_73]

it's really hard not to jack those springs when taking them apart.

Now lay off the skinny when turning or you'll eat up your wheel rubber.

Lockers is good.

 

[car-car]

7. - Proceeded to removing the side gears and spider gears from my rear diff assembly. The hardest part of the total job was getting the left axle shaft pushed in far enough to remove the left c-clip. Once that last c-clip had clearance for removal, the rest was smooth sailing.

8. - Followed the rest of the assembly instructions from the manual to get the Aussie Locker installed. Checked all the clearances with a feeler gauge and everything was in spec. I could hear slight ratcheting during the spin test with the rear axle up on stands, but once I got the diff cover back on and filled with gear oil, I couldn't hear the ratcheting anymore.

I am anxious to see how it does on and off-road.

 

[cruiserbrett]

they take some getting used to but they work really well. I would try to get a new set of springs from aussielocker, since they are pretty important to keep the two "plates" separated properly, but your solution should be fine for the interim.

the trick to the springs is a small flat blade screw driver and some tweezer, or a pick. stick the small flat blade into a coil or so from the end, pry back against spring pressure, and use the pick to hook the end of the spring and guide out.

you will be happy wiht the offroad capabilites of the locker for sure. On road in a short wheelbase truck can surprise you randomly, cause the locker affect likes to stay engaged when you least expect it... but once you get used to it, your fine. as shane says, coasting in turns is the key

 

[car-car]

That's probably a good call on using the intended springs from Aussie Locker. It would be easy to swap replacements in.

I've been driving it around the past couple days trying to get a feel for it. So far, so good. It's been pretty quiet, and only every once in a while I can hear the ratcheting in a parking lot or a tight turn.

I usually drive it pretty conservatively, and that is good advice to coast into the corners/turns. So far, I have only chirped the tires a couple times in a turn, and that was due to me trying to get a feel for what it would take to do it, which wasn't much, so I will definitely take it easy on the corners.

Thanks again guys.

 

[TemeculaTim]

Adam,

I have been running an aussie locker for a few years. They do take a little getting used to on the pavement- especially in wet weather and when shifting from first to second - but they work great off road.

The clinking sound also gets some attention- Had one old guy in a gas station tell me he thought my lug nuts were loose. I told him it was just the nut behind the steerring wheel.

 

[car-car]

Adam,

I have been running an aussie locker for a few years. They do take a little getting used to on the pavement- especially in wet weather and when shifting from first to second - but they work great off road.

The clinking sound also gets some attention- Had one old guy in a gas station tell me he thought my lug nuts were loose. I told him it was just the nut behind the steerring wheel.

Hey Tim, thanks for the tips. I have noticed a slight difference in getting back into the gas between first and second. Maybe I'll keep an extra pair of shorts in the truck for when it unexpectedly locks/unlocks when I am anticipating the opposite. Looking forward to that experience.....

The ratcheting sound has been minimal so far. I could hear it when I was spin testing up on jackstands and the diff cover off, but once I put the cover back on and filled with gear oil, it has been surprisingly quiet, to the point I sometimes wonder if everything is working properly (but maybe that is how they designed it to work).

I'm glad to hear you are still happy with your Aussie locker, it seems like a lot of people were very satisfied with the product here on the tech board, and the price was right, so I am looking forward to seeing the difference between open and locked.

Post up pics of the Calico run when you have a chance....looking forward to seeing the trip photos....

 

[car-car]

Alright, another somewhat related question for the experts.....

I am currently running stock 3.70 gears in the diffs (factory for the late model 40's), with the 4 speed and split case transfer. Tires I am running are 33's, and my intentions with the truck is a capable rig for a mix of both street and trail. Not interested in rock crawling at this point with this rig, but I do want the truck to be capable on the trail. Fuel economy isn't the biggest concern in driving the 40, as it never was intended to get 32 MPG in the first place. My thought would be going from my current 3.70 gear set to a 4.10 gear setup might be the easiest to upgrade without getting into the tranny/transfer units (which I would love to do if the budget permitted).

Which brings me to my question.....

When I bought the locker, it also came with the entire third member/diff assembly minus the housing from a '78 FJ40 that was running 4.10 ring and pinion (see pic #1 at the top of the thread). All the side and spider gears, washers, ring and pinion, bearings, diff carrier, etc. If I wanted to change my gearing in the axles, I could use this spare 4.10 setup in my open front diff (set up properly of course), and then all I would need for the carrier in the rear (with the Aussie locker installed) would be a 4.10 ring and pinion and possibly replacing any worn parts (washers, seals, etc.) to go along with that?

Just wondering if my logic makes sense. Might be interested in doing this on the cheap if I can make it work. If not, I will keep running the 3.70 setup, as it works. Just checking to see if I can upgrade if the price is right. Anyone know what a used 4.10 ring and pinion (fine spline from a late model) would fetch, or is anyone looking to unload an extra one?

Thanks again for everyone's help/advice.

Adam

 

[1973Guppie]

never installed an aussie locker but if I remember correctly it does not require removal of the ring and pinion from the diff, correct?

if this is true, I think your best bet would be to find 2 good used earlier 4.11 stock diff assemblies. They should swap right in. If not, somebody will correct me. You will probably have to change the spiders to match your axles. Then you can take your aussie and install it in the rear stock diff.

otherwise, you are looking at correctly setting up the ring and pinion gears (setting backlash, etc) which is somewhat hard to do. I have never done it. I have ARB's and felt it was good $$ to have a pro set up the gears as the godammn diff's cost me an arm and a leg. There are some special tools you will need as well to set the backlash and pinion depth correctly once you take apart those stock diffs.

HTH,

Noah

 

[fj40_73]

crush sleeve I have heard to be a bit of a pain, to get the sleeve to start it's crushing, and if you crush too much, you have to get a new sleeve.

I have done the shim type (older), you can take it apart and put it back together as much as you want until you get the correct pinion depth by add or take out shims.

Setting the backlash is not all that hard.

Lots of write ups on it floating around here on mud. GopherIT!

 

[car-car]

never installed an aussie locker but if I remember correctly it does not require removal of the ring and pinion from the diff, correct?

if this is true, I think your best bet would be to find 2 good used earlier 4.11 stock diff assemblies. They should swap right in. If not, somebody will correct me. You will probably have to change the spiders to match your axles. Then you can take your aussie and install it in the rear stock diff.

otherwise, you are looking at correctly setting up the ring and pinion gears (setting backlash, etc) which is somewhat hard to do. I have never done it. I have ARB's and felt it was good $$ to have a pro set up the gears as the godammn diff's cost me an arm and a leg. There are some special tools you will need as well to set the backlash and pinion depth correctly once you take apart those stock diffs.

HTH,

Noah

Correct, with the Aussie, the ring and pinion stay in along with the diff carrier. You simply pull the spider and side gears and replace with the Aussie. That is what led me to thinking it might be easy on that axle to simply swap the ring and pinion (setting the proper depth and backlash of course). I was thinking the front diff may be more complex since the side and spider gears would also have to be set up properly as well.

 

[car-car]

crush sleeve I have heard to be a bit of a pain, to get the sleeve to start it's crushing, and if you crush too much, you have to get a new sleeve.

I have done the shim type (older), you can take it apart and put it back together as much as you want until you get the correct pinion depth by add or take out shims.

Setting the backlash is not all that hard.

Lots of write ups on it floating around here on mud. GopherIT!

All good things to think about, thanks. I'm not in any hurry to get it done, and the truck is running well currently as it is, but just thinking down the road at the re-gearing idea. Maybe I'll just keep an eye out for another 4.10 diff assembly so I will be ready to go when the time is right.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help.