At wits' end
- Thread starter mp_cude
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- Thread starter
- #22
I certainly don't think it is anything CBT did, otherwise they would have been my first stop. I noticed all of this with the last setup and after miles its doing it to this setup. If this is normal, great! Good to know! Ill drive on! If its not normal, I want to try to address it, before putting on anymore miles. Thanks everyone!
In your other thread on this subject you are convinced that your spring perches are not located where they should be. You have measured them and found them not to be the same distance from the Birf on each side which would make the axle sit cockeyed. Others chimed in that they should be the same on each side. It sounds like you need to get them cut off, center the axle and then weld them back on. Are you not convinced that was the problem?
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- #25
I will update that thread, came here because it is local. I re-measured at the top of the birf realizing the front tires move left to right, compromising the first measurement, they're the same distance near as I can tell. Either way, I think there is something funky going on up front.
May be a long shot, but have you verified your wheel offsets are the same? and wheels are the same width?
I honestly do not see anything that would concern me. If the axle is off .50 I would start looking at the body alignment or the wheel off-set like Funner suggested. There is probably at least that much deflection in the bushings on those extended shackles.
The plumb bob and measurements (wheel to frame and knuckle top to frame) will show if anything is really off. Even if there is a small difference it would not concern me as long as the vehicle tracks straight.
The plumb bob and measurements (wheel to frame and knuckle top to frame) will show if anything is really off. Even if there is a small difference it would not concern me as long as the vehicle tracks straight.
That's where I'm at. If it doesn't track all over the road or get some kind of death wobble your ok. But I understand your point of wanting it perfect. Your more than welcome to take some measurements on my 60 series if you'd like
MP, I understand your point that after we found the RF spring leafs splaying all over that it deserves some attention just to play it safe. Maybe our first step would be to get you back in here and do some measurements on the alignment rack to see if anything has changed since we did the lift> initial alignment. The specs came out good after the lift and if they are essentially the same as before, I would agree with the body/frame/etc shift that many older trucks seem to have to some degree or another may be the culprit. LIke I mentioned, the tech did say he was able to fix the damaged perch and felt it was savable but there was a very slight chance - esp if you wheel it hard - that it may possibly need changed down the line. If it was questionable, he wouldve reccomended it at the time.
If the alignment measurements are substantially different from the initial alignment then we will know right away if there is an issue. I agree we want to get ahead of it and make sure all is well!
If the alignment measurements are substantially different from the initial alignment then we will know right away if there is an issue. I agree we want to get ahead of it and make sure all is well!
Regarding your original post you mention doing a shackle reversal at the same time. May I respectfully suggest you fix one problem before you make a major suspension change? If it were me and I was really concerned, I'd have the axle removed, BOTH perches cut off and ground down to the axle, new OEM or OEM style (I'm sure there are many places to find these) perches welded to the axle at the stock location and angle. This would be a good baseline to start from.
Once you have this done you can start from scratch.
A google search of "60 series Land Cruiser frame dimensions" yielded this pic, which oddly, is on iH8MUD...
Do you have a FSM?
Once you have this done you can start from scratch.
A google search of "60 series Land Cruiser frame dimensions" yielded this pic, which oddly, is on iH8MUD...
Do you have a FSM?
That looks like an 80 frame to me. None-the-less, good feedback...Regarding your original post you mention doing a shackle reversal at the same time. May I respectfully suggest you fix one problem before you make a major suspension change? If it were me and I was really concerned, I'd have the axle removed, BOTH perches cut off and ground down to the axle, new OEM or OEM style (I'm sure there are many places to find these) perches welded to the axle at the stock location and angle. This would be a good baseline to start from.
Once you have this done you can start from scratch.
A google search of "60 series Land Cruiser frame dimensions" yielded this pic, which oddly, is on iH8MUD...
Do you have a FSM?
Try looking at the PDF of the FSM:
http://www.rooney.org/tlc/manuals/1980chassis-body-manual.pdf
Its in section 11.
More good information on caster/camber and slip in section 6.
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- #33
I agree, without resolving the issue first will only compund things and make it worse. If axle perches are the cause, would it be reasonably more cost effective to change the entire housing or new axles altogether? Maybe some 62 axles? My original concern was with the perches on the frame its self and figured if they have to come off, might as well do the reversal kit. I have an fsm for 80s, but not for the 60s.
Mtkreitz, good to know the camber it adjustable. Is caster as well, or is that just a reference? I will drop it off at CBT tomorrow to see if anything has shifted since the alignment. If so, that should give a good starting point to trace back, if there is an issue. If nothing has shifted, it all looked good on the rack acording. Could what I'm seeing be camber? Slightly more pronounced on the driver side? A half inch doesn't take much.
those are just referencing specs. Neither Caster or camber are adjustable on a FJ60.
For what its worth> my theory is the "keep it simple" deal: Make sure its safe, fix it to that point, and just have fun driving it! A Land Cruiser should have more time with dirt under its tires than a lift under its frame!
FYI in-case anyone missed it... I put the link to the official Toyota body and chassis manual (PDF) in my post.
GREAT idea. Then you can print the pages you need and get them greasy/dirty/muddy. I still like a real, printed manual for reading in front of the TV...