Are my OME spring installed on the wrong side ---regarding "lean and roll"? (1 Viewer)

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allen_ajones said:
SO we have two generations of OME springs, right?

Older ones had Driver side (DS) and passendger side (PS) labels which means you had to switch sides when installng on US models...correct or no?

Newer ones have L/H, R/H labels only for both front and rear springs. The question is what does these new labels mean and are they to be switched just like the older labels....correct?

>> Older ones had Driver side (DS) and passendger side (PS) labels which means you had to switch sides when installng on US models...correct or no? <<

true.

>> The question is what does these new labels mean and are they to be switched just like the older labels....correct <<

I thought they were correct as is but could be wrong.

The best thing to do is to unload the springs (remove from truck) and measure their height. On;y problem is which side is supposed to be higher. Christo posted that info on the previous thread on this subject on allen's thread.
 
Wow. To recap, forget completely about the shocks in terms of switching. Above comments are 100% absolutely freakin positively correct, that you CANNOT install the shocks wrong. They still could be your problem if they're damaged but don't worry about switching them.

On the springs. OME shortsightedly used to label them as to passenger side, etc. Several firms imported them into the US. Some knew about the problem and relabeled them "right" and "left". Some did not. And I even heard about a sizable batch where the importer mistakenly labeled the passenger side with "right" labels and so on for the US market. So. There's every possibility still that your springs are improperly installed irrespective of the label. I understand that if you have them side by side on the ground that one side springs are taller than the other, which may be your only means, since you're not the original buyer, of finding out which is which.

Personally, I suspect that you have something damaged for the truck to lean going into a driveway and then stick there, which is what you posted on another thread.

It would be extremely helpful for you to post the model numbers on the shocks as there are folks who might read that and find that you have the improper shocks, which would lead to the possibility that indeed they've been damaged by being the improper length and are hanging up.

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
Wow. And I even heard about a sizable batch where the importer mistakenly labeled the passenger side with "right" labels and so on for the US market. So. There's every possibility still that your springs are improperly installed irrespective of the label. I understand that if you have them side by side on the ground that one side springs are taller than the other, which may be your only means, since you're not the original buyer, of finding out which is which.

DougM

So which side are the correct installation for US model springs taller....left or right?
 
allen_ajones said:
So which side are the correct installation for US model springs taller....left or right?

The tallest of two springs goes on the driver's side, both in front and rear. The OME's I just got were labeled A and B and the B was taller. Once again, all lableing is in favor of OZ trucks and should be reversed by us. Same is the case for DS PS.

Proper spring position is to rotate the spring until it comes to a stop against the perch on the base.
 
elmariachi said:
The tallest of two springs goes on the driver's side, both in front and rear. The OME's I just got were labeled A and B and the B was taller. Once again, all lableing is in favor of OZ trucks and should be reversed by us. Same is the case for DS PS.

Proper spring position is to rotate the spring until it comes to a stop against the perch on the base.

So what is your opinion about "L/H" and "R/H"?
 
My springs are installed with LH on drivers side and RH on passenger side.

When Allen said "My problem is that it leans alot around turns when I'm definitely not going fast enough for roll. Sometimes, when I pull into a parking spot, it will retain the lean angle that matched my aproach." I presumed that it is always leaning to the same side when parked.

If my presumption above is right, then I believe that he needs to swaps springs side to side. Maybe only the front, maybe only the rear, maybe both front and rear.

If my presumption made above is wrong, then Allen has a different problem, or perhaps no problem at all.
 
Body roll is one thing. Leaning when parked is another. If you turn right before you park then the truck might not level out.

The catch is that no OME spring was ever engineered for a US truck. RHD and LHD trucks are not mirror images. The springs are made in Australia for their trucks and I am pretty sure they sit level there. However the official ARB party line is use the packers to level it out when it leans.

When labelled PS and DS we always swap them. ARB says don't, but out experience is that they need to be.

So if you truck leans, try to swap them. If it still leans determine which way it leaned the least and adjust with packers.

Again, Alan initially posted regarding body roll, and that is a whole other thing. I have never seen a 80 with a OME have more body roll than stock.
 
Just checking the hopefully too obvious to miss, but did you by any chance disconnect the sway bar and forget to reconnect it prompting more roll? Rolling the dice here but checking anyway.
 
and if you want no lean or less lean on one side on your cruiser you can cross the springs, left side front short, left side rear tall, right side front tall, right side rear short.

all lc80's that we have fitted with OME has a lean on the passenger side, some with 1" difference.
 
One thing that drags at my mind is the mention that the cruiser leans on a turn and maintains that lean when parked. Does it actually maintain that lean ? If so, for how long ? I know of the cruiser lean and the simplest solution there is the application of trim tabs. However, for a cruiser to aquire a lean on a turn and maintain it ? I find that very difficult.

Please elucidate.


Kalawang
 
It is not drastic lean. It doesn't slouch. I starting to think me eradicating lean and body roll is not going to happen.

It sounds like I need to "pull" the suspension altogether making sure the "TAll" springs are on the left side, respective of the correct front & rear. Then I need to have someone "test" the shocks.

To do that, I extend and compress them by hand to see if they "retain" their position and or "go back" to the original position. Is that the correct test?
 
allen_ajones said:
It is not drastic lean. It doesn't slouch. I starting to think me eradicating lean and body roll is not going to happen.

It sounds like I need to "pull" the suspension altogether making sure the "TAll" springs are on the left side, respective of the correct front & rear. Then I need to have someone "test" the shocks.

To do that, I extend and compress them by hand to see if they "retain" their position and or "go back" to the original position. Is that the correct test?

Before you remove your springs, measure both sides of your LC and see which one is higher and by how much.

Get a stick and use it to measure the distance between your shock mounts with the vehicle at rest. It doesn't matter if the shocks are mounted, just be reasonably accurate. To be certain, measure both sides and if there is a difference, measure again. If the difference persists, look carefully at the shocks to see they are mounted correctly also look at the mounts and see if they are undamaged. If everything looks alright, remove the shocks and measure again. This measure will give you the at rest length of your shocks mounted.

When you have removed your springs, measure both and see if there is a difference and by how much.

If this difference is not equal or very close to your first measure's difference, you'd best get yourself a ring spacer for that measure, or very close to it. They are also called trim tabs and other names.

If your springs are equal in height, just get a ring spacer equal to your first measure's difference and slip it into the lower side.

Re mounting the springs and any needed ring spacers correctly should fix your stationary lean.

With regards to your shocks, yes you compress them manually and see if they come back equally quickly and smoothly. The degree of resistance to compression will also tell you if your shocks are soft or stiff. If they compress easy, get stffer shocks. What I consider a stiff shock would need something near 100 lbs. to compress. I really don't know what exact pressure it needs. In my case it takes most of my body weight on it, but I don't know how much. I weigh 160 lbs and my springs are very difficult to compress manually, but my ride is only firm.

If one stays down, you would probably be better off buying a set of stiff shocks. Measure your shocks at full compression and also at full extension. Compare this measure to your at rest measure. Make sure your shocks give adequate compression and extension. Your at rest measure will give you an indication if your shocks are the right length for your lifted ride. Try to choose shocks that will mount in the median of it's extended length. If that's difficult, try to choose shocks that allow for more compression than extension. You normally use compression more often. If the shocks are fully extended when mounted, make some shock extenders to let the shocks operate in their median.


Kalawang
 
Taller springs on the left side.

If the springs are labeled DS and PS, and you're in the US, switch the sides.
If the springs are labeled LH and RH, regardles of where you are, do not switch the sides.
Left and right shocks do not matter.

Taller springs on the left side.
 
Not sure, but i think the taller springs go on the DS because of the added weight of the steering box, battery, steering colum, ect. :grinpimp:
 
NorCalDoug said:
Taller springs on the left side.

If the springs are labeled DS and PS, and you're in the US, switch the sides.
If the springs are labeled LH and RH, regardles of where you are, do not switch the sides.
Left and right shocks do not matter.

Taller springs on the left side.


OK....I think the matter is settled regarding springs and shocks for my rig.
Thanks ALL for your unending support. You guys are Great.

One last question.

Would replacing sway bar hardware (rubber or polyurethane bushings...if there are any) fix the body roll?

It did not look like there are any "cushioning" parts to the sway bar assemblies...and if that is correct and OEM sway bars don't weaken after 10 years...then there is nothing I can do stiffen the ride other than stiffer shocks which don't come with the OME setup I purchased (which was standard height replacement) from Slee, correct?
 
allen_ajones said:
OK....I think the matter is settled regarding springs and shocks for my rig.
Thanks ALL for your unending support. You guys are Great.

One last question.

Would replacing sway bar hardware (rubber or polyurethane bushings...if there are any) fix the body roll?

It did not look like there are any "cushioning" parts to the sway bar assemblies...and if that is correct and OEM sway bars don't weaken after 10 years...then there is nothing I can do stiffen the ride other than stiffer shocks which don't come with the OME setup I purchased (which was standard height replacement) from Slee, correct?

If your shocks are truly overextended, you can improve their operation by making shock extenders to bring them to their median operating length. However, if they are already close to correct length, I don't know how they can be improved, and even if they could, I'm not all that sure the improvement would be sufficient to be satisfactory.

One added thing, taller springs plus whatever trim tabs are needed, on the LOWER side.

Kalawang
 
Last edited:
Allen, I would suggest you try to locate someone close to your with OME outfitted truck and drive it to compare. We have never sold OME to someone and had them complain about excessive body roll. In fact that is one of the best things of OME is that it improves over stock. So either something is wrong, or a part has failed.

What are you comparing it to. Also did this start suddenly?

Oh, and just to be sure, you are saying that you have to much body roll wouhen cornering. More than you had with stock suspension?
 
sleeoffroad said:
Allen, I would suggest you try to locate someone close to your with OME outfitted truck and drive it to compare. We have never sold OME to someone and had them complain about excessive body roll. In fact that is one of the best things of OME is that it improves over stock. So either something is wrong, or a part has failed.

What are you comparing it to. Also did this start suddenly?

Oh, and just to be sure, you are saying that you have to much body roll wouhen cornering. More than you had with stock suspension?
it did greatly improve over stock which was 8 years old.

Maybe it is working the way it is supposed to be and I think it should be tighter. I feel like I might be wasting peoples time. Sorry
 

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