Are all BTU's created equal? (1 Viewer)

[rgsiii]

I just received a Camp-Chef All terrain stove. It is described as having two 20,000 BTU burners. I also have a Century triple burner stove which is described as having one 10,000 BTU burner and two 12,000 BTU burners.

I wanted to see how much faster my new stove was and decided to see how long it took each stove to boil 250 ML of water. I decided to do this with only one burner and then with all burners on each stove. It was done with the same full propane tank, same day/altitude and essentially the same initial temperature of 23 degrees celsius.

I started out with the Century with one burner on using the 10,000 BTU burner--3 minutes ten seconds. Then the Camp-Chef--exactly one minute longer.

Then with the Camp Chef with all burners on it was over eight minutes to boiling--I stopped timing. Then the Century using one of the 12,000 BTU burners (with other two on) it was three minutes twenty seconds to boiling.

One thing stood out on examining the stoves is that the Camp-Chef has a 10 PSI regulator and the Century has a 16 PSI.

To say that I was taken back by these resultx is an understatement. My next option will be to get a higher PSI regulator for the Camp-Chef (the Century's is integral to the stove).

Out the box, with these results, there is no comparision. The Century is much smaller and lighter and puts out a lot more heat. With a different regulator, it might be a different story as far as heat output.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Cool-great data. I'm getting a Century. Across the board, their stuff is much better made than Coleman, which in my experience, sucks if made in the last 10 years.

As to the Camp Chef-Nice stove. I'll bet there are uncounted variables causing extra heat loss-like the burner is larger and the heat is escaping around the pot instead of into the pot. Try the experiment with 2 quarts of water in a large flat bottom pot and see what you get.

 

[accasbel]

Yes: BTU = BTU.

Your evidence seems to indicate that either your Camp Chef is not producing enough, or the Century is producing more than advertised. I'd check Cruiserdrew's suggestion about a large flat pot.

 

[spressomon]

When I spoke to Partner Steel he did mention there were different methods of testing BTU output...I didn't have him go into it but I am sure, for those inquiring minds that want to know, he would explain if you call them.

FWIQ: He stated their burner's are very conservatively rated...

 

[ff347]

A question, is the grate on the stove on the left a good deal closer to the burners or is that optical? (It looks like it is about on top of that burner)

 

[rgsiii]

A question, is the grate on the stove on the left a good deal closer to the burners or is that optical? (It looks like it is about on top of that burner)

Not an illusion, it is closer. I'll try to do a one litre trial in a bit.

 

[ff347]

Convection vs. Conduction?

 

[Scamper]

I think you're onto it with the 10psi vs 16psi. If I'm not mistaken, the BTU rating is of the burner itself, meaning it's rated to 20K BTU. That doesn't mean that the stove will put that out with a 10psi regulator though.

I have one of those King Kooker afterburner cookers that I use with my wok (can generate ungodly amounts of heat!). The regulator on that isn't preset; there's a knob on the regulator that you turn to adjust the pressure output and that's how you increase/decrease the flame. I don't know what it puts out on high, but you have to watch overhead to make sure you're not burning the house down

I'd bet that if you put an adjustable regulator on that stove, you'd either melt it down, or get a lot more heat out of it. Or both.