ARB Twin interior mount

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Has anyone come up with an interior mount for the ARB Twin Compressor in the GX? Custom, commercially available solution, etc.?
 
I mounted mine in the engine bay using the Rago mount, wanted to save the interior space for a drawer system. I’m sure it can be done however, but may need to make a mount for wherever you want to put it.
 
I too, mounted mine in the engine bay via Slee Offroad:
Personally, I wouldn't want the compressor in the cabin, too noisy. When airing up, and if the weather is too cold or too hot outside, I want to sit in a nice comfortable and quiet cabin till my tires are aired up. I also keep my air tools under the hood, which, for makes sense as my compressor it there also!
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I have always had them under the hood on previous Toyota/Lexus vehicles, usually Slee mounts but I’ve got it in the cab behind the rear seat in my Super Duty and I absolutely love it. Not too loud, stays free of dirt and heat.
 
I have always had them under the hood on previous Toyota/Lexus vehicles, usually Slee mounts but I’ve got it in the cab behind the rear seat in my Super Duty and I absolutely love it. Not too loud, stays free of dirt and heat.
Desert Does it has an underseat mount for a 5th gen 4Runner, though not sure how different the mounting is between that and the GX.
 
Desert Does it has an underseat mount for a 5th gen 4Runner, though not sure how different the mounting is between that and the GX.
If the GX has seat coolers, I'm willing to bet that it won't fit. I can barely fit my gun safe under the seat and it's only a couple inches high.
But I do have the seat at it's lowest setting.
 
You might consider Bison gear molle panels and mount to that. Gives you a lot of other storage options. $100 per side plus shipping. I think victory makes some too but they’re more expensive.
Good point! Also the rear shelf. Those M.O.L.L.E. panels are rock solid along with a rear shelf. No problem with a compressors vibration.
 
ARB makes an interior mount for the Prado
 
ARB makes an interior mount for the Prado

Pricey, looks like it's hard to source as well. But I like what they came up with.
 
TBH it might be easier to take the rig to a fab shop and have them build you something. I DIY'd my own mount (under hood) without too much trouble - a true fab shop could probably knock one out in a few hours out of $25 worth of steel.

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Though, IMO having it under the hood is probably a safer option electrically. To put one in the back I'd want to run 4 ga cable to it and protect it very well, as you'll have long cable runs and quite a bit of voltage loss when the twin is pulling ~60 amps. I have mine fed with 6 ga under the hood (~6 ft total cable run) and would not really want to go any smaller than that.
 
TBH it might be easier to take the rig to a fab shop and have them build you something. I DIY'd my own mount (under hood) without too much trouble - a true fab shop could probably knock one out in a few hours out of $25 worth of steel.

View attachment 3726141
Though, IMO having it under the hood is probably a safer option electrically. To put one in the back I'd want to run 4 ga cable to it and protect it very well, as you'll have long cable runs and quite a bit of voltage loss when the twin is pulling ~60 amps. I have mine fed with 6 ga under the hood (~6 ft total cable run) and would not really want to go any smaller than that.

The kit in my Super Duty that mounts in cab behind the rear seat uses 6 gauge duplex marine grade wiring and an 80amp fuse breaker.
 
The kit in my Super Duty that mounts in cab behind the rear seat uses 6 gauge duplex marine grade wiring and an 80amp fuse breaker.
At the max 80A a twin can draw, it's definitely into 4 ga territory with wire lengths beyond 8 ft (although other charts exist that are more or less conservative).

My 6GA gets lukewarm but not hot after airing up 6 tires. The 10 GA setup I used to have on my old Smittybilt got quite warm, but it was only pulling ~45A.
 
TBH it might be easier to take the rig to a fab shop and have them build you something. I DIY'd my own mount (under hood) without too much trouble - a true fab shop could probably knock one out in a few hours out of $25 worth of steel.

View attachment 3726141
Though, IMO having it under the hood is probably a safer option electrically. To put one in the back I'd want to run 4 ga cable to it and protect it very well, as you'll have long cable runs and quite a bit of voltage loss when the twin is pulling ~60 amps. I have mine fed with 6 ga under the hood (~6 ft total cable run) and would not really want to go any smaller than that.
Love how you ran your quick connect up to the front. Mine is right on the compressor and after airing up, it's too hot to uncouple for several minutes.
May need to plagiarize your idea with mine!
 
At the max 80A a twin can draw, it's definitely into 4 ga territory with wire lengths beyond 8 ft (although other charts exist that are more or less conservative).

My 6GA gets lukewarm but not hot after airing up 6 tires. The 10 GA setup I used to have on my old Smittybilt got quite warm, but it was only pulling ~45A.

No clue how long that lead is on the truck but it’s a shorter run than what would be used in the GX.
 
No clue how long that lead is on the truck but it’s a shorter run than what would be used in the GX.
You'd be fine with 4GA all the way to the back. I bought a crimper for $45 on Amazon and now make all my own cables - actually super each and cheaper than getting pre-made ones that are kind of the right length.
 
Love how you ran your quick connect up to the front. Mine is right on the compressor and after airing up, it's too hot to uncouple for several minutes.
May need to plagiarize your idea with mine!
I have two burn scars on my right wrist from turning off my old Smittybilt! That thing got super hot and the switch was right next to a copper stub I had on the compressor.

This setup works much better. The braided line ($28 Viair from Amazon) gets kind of hot (but nowhere near as hot as the Smittybilt did). Then the last 12' rubber hose keeps the QC from getting hot. And, the remote switch (not pictured, but mounted to my airbox, opposite the compressor) means I don't have to get near the compressor to turn it off. I have a 1/4" NPT bulkhead fitting going thru the little angle metal bracket I made.

The only mod I need to make is to add a pressure release valve in. Right now without one it's very difficult to unhook the air line from the QC, since the twin goes to ~160 psi. I have one I can take off the Smittybilt and add in.
 
I have two burn scars on my right wrist from turning off my old Smittybilt! That thing got super hot and the switch was right next to a copper stub I had on the compressor.

This setup works much better. The braided line ($28 Viair from Amazon) gets kind of hot (but nowhere near as hot as the Smittybilt did). Then the last 12' rubber hose keeps the QC from getting hot. And, the remote switch (not pictured, but mounted to my airbox, opposite the compressor) means I don't have to get near the compressor to turn it off. I have a 1/4" NPT bulkhead fitting going thru the little angle metal bracket I made.

The only mod I need to make is to add a pressure release valve in. Right now without one it's very difficult to unhook the air line from the QC, since the twin goes to ~160 psi. I have one I can take off the Smittybilt and add in.
I have a short 6 foot braided line also that I use for connecting my 4 tire manifold air line into. After blowing out an ARB air hose after getting too hot and being directly connected to the compressor, I use this now. Not to dissimilar to what you have, but I have to remove the hose every time, and you don't, hence considering doing a setup like yours.
I've never had an issue uncoupling, even at pressure, but it helps when I turn the compressor off. Still a PRV is a good idea.
 

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