ARB Rear Bumper installed (1 Viewer)

[JBHorne]

Hey guys,

I've finished installing my rear bumper (minus the sensors). I have about 8hrs of work in it already, and maybe another 3 to go.

Here are some pics without the rear bumper, but after the quarter panels were cut:

ARB's instructions were wrong in a few regards, one of which was major.


1) The recovery loops that are below the vehicle are removed completely and are not reused. They use these as a main point the bumper is attached to. It would be nice if they simply provided longer bolts so these could be reattached.

2) I am not sure why ARB has the 6mm packers as separate pieces. Would it not have been simpler just to weld these onto the bar? It wasn't difficult at all to put them in place, but it just didn't make sense from an engineering standpoint not to just have these part of the bumper.

3) The bracket on the left side which holds some sort of electronic equipment at an angle is moved using the relocating bracket. When this is done, the O.E. bracket is lower and further forward. It interferes with the spare tire, if oversized from stock. I had to take a dremel and cut off some metal to allow this bracket to clear the tire.

4) There are two brackets in the center (to the left and to the right of the hitch) that need to be removed to clear the new bumper. They were used to support the plastic bumper. ARB makes no mention of these, but they need to be removed. They serve no purpose with the ARB bumper. This should have been in the instructions.

5) There is a piece of hollow tube steel which is welded attaching from one side of rear frame rail to the other near the hitch. This appears to be a cage for the spare tire. It simply supports the spare tire. There is a screw dead center where the spare tire wrench inserts to lower the spare. This bar must be removed as it interferes with the ARB bumper. I simply took a hack saw and cut this piece off. Again, I do not see this piece adding any structural integrity to the vehicle, especially once the ARB bumper is in place. However, ARB failed to mention anything about this piece. I will have to discuss this with ARB on Monday, but I cannot imagine that this piece is not on the AU models for which the instructions were written.

6) The gap on the left side between the cut bumper and the ARB is larger than on the right side. ARB states you MUST use the 6mm packers, but I question this. I may remove the packer on the left and see if I can get it closer. It's about 30mm on the left and 15mm on the right. If I remove the packer, I may be able to get it closer, but at the same time I don't want to to sit unlevel or raked. in appearance. We'll see what I do...

7) If the spare is in place while lifting the bumper on, even after those brackets and tube steel are cut, you will hit the rear of the spare tire. It makes it a lot easier to remove (or at least lower) the tire and then get the bumper on. Once in place, the tire when lifted will bind into the ARB bumper holding it securely in place. This is why that steel tube can be removed safely.


As a final note, I wanted to get the bumper on first before drilling the sensors as I wanted to know where the bumper touches (or comes close to) the rear frame rail and hitch. This way, I didn't make a large hole and regret it once the bumper was on. I'm going to find 4 locations that do not interfere and drill them with the bumper attached. It shouldn't be too difficult to wire it from behind, especially once the spare is removed and I have it on 6" risers.

I'm heading outside to do this now. It's a nice day as far as Tucson is concerned -- 96* is the high today. Last week was 108*!!!

 

[JBHorne]

Alright, done with the sensors. Boy, were those a headache. I can see why ARB simply resorted to saying they are not compatible.

For one, there is not much room behind the ARB bumper. The rear frame where the hitch is is about 1" away from the sensors. If you drilled the sensors first, you may have not been able to get the bumper on (unless you knew exactly where to mount them).

The plastic sensor housings are notched specifically for the plastic bumper. You'd have to notch the steel bumper perfectly to get these to fit. I took the easy way out and simply re-designed the sensor housings by using a dremel and rounding them perfectly, taking the notches off.

As you can see in the photos, the two outer sensors are located high, while the two inner sensors are low. This is due to the space behind the bumper. I don't think it looks bad where they are. What do you think?

I think the whole project turned out very well. I just wish ARB was more detailed with their instructions. Having to take a hacksaw to a part should be in the instructions...

Here are the final pics...sorry about the low light it was at night:

 

[donjuanmiguel]

Looka great, JB. And I like the sensor postition.

 

[sbly]

JB, the 200 looks good.

 

[JBHorne]

Did you guys have to cut that metal bar with your bumpers (the deluxe model)?

 

[sbly]

JB,

Sorry I can't answer that, the IPOR guys have my truck. But I am sure that Cam and Vince will be able to tell you how they did mine, they will be back on Monday.

Would love to see a side view of the hotrod if you get a chance (ARB front and rear bumpers).

Sbly

 

[donjuanmiguel]

Did you guys have to cut that metal bar with your bumpers (the deluxe model)?

Yep, it has to be cut else no fit. Also, used the stuff you and Mitch suggested on front and rear cut edges. Makes gaps much tighter.

JB, did you have to install your trailer plug farther forward?

Again, your truck looks great.

 

[Skrewball]

tube had to be cut.

those two bumper brackets were mentioned in the instructions for the deluxe bumper.

the spare cleared the sensor on sbly's truck.

JB, did you notice the top of the frame(right above the hitch) being abit too tall for the bumper?

on sbly's truck i had to grind down the two vertical parts of the frame to keep the step from bowing up in the middle.

Bumper looks good.

 

[hoser]

Great write-up!

 

[JBHorne]

Yep, it has to be cut else no fit. Also, used the stuff you and Mitch suggested on front and rear cut edges. Makes gaps much tighter.

JB, did you have to install your trailer plug farther forward?

Again, your truck looks great.

Don, where did you get that stuff? I'd like to find it locally (I have to admit I haven't looked much...)

I installed the trailer plug on the same bracket that I took it off of. The ARB instructions have you cut one of the "legs" off, but it still has one bolt to hold it on, plus a bent metal tab that keeps it from rotation or loosening. Hopefully it withstands the test of time.

 

[JBHorne]

tube had to be cut.

those two bumper brackets were mentioned in the instructions for the deluxe bumper.

the spare cleared the sensor on sbly's truck.

JB, did you notice the top of the frame(right above the hitch) being abit too tall for the bumper?

on sbly's truck i had to grind down the two vertical parts of the frame to keep the step from bowing up in the middle.

Bumper looks good.

That's good news about the spare. I think it was that I'm running 275/70R18, which is slightly larger than most.

Did your instructions tell you to cut that tube? I had to make a decision to either:
1) cut it and forget it
2) weld it off and bend it in a new shape
3) have a new tube bent correctly and welded back in place

Obviously I chose the easiest way. I highly doubt that piece is going to effect the safety integrity of the vehicle, but I'd like your opinions on it.

I did not have a problem with the top of the hitch. I know which supports you are referring to though. In one of the pics you can see where it scraped all the paint off the inside as the bumper was being put on and taken off for fittings. I'd have to see if it is causing a forward cant, but I doubt it.

Again, I really don't like that it wasn't in the instructions as it makes it difficult to estimate time needed when unexpected things come up. Also, it reassures me that ARB engineers have thoroughly thought it through.

All these 200's are looking like real beasts now!!! I like how we are all finally breaking away from the usual mods and actually have some personalization now with 3 rear bumpers on the market.

I want to see slby's light whoring project soon. You better be going with HID's for the project

 

[Skrewball]

no mention of cutting the tube in the instructions.

also would prob add about 10mm to the measurements for cutting the orig. bumper, to make the gap a bit smaller between the two.

sbly's truck has 285/??/18 BFG's on it, and the bracket wasn't a problem. (i think that sensor is the YAW sensor, not sure though)

sbly isn't going with any HID's, but the number of standard halogen lights will more than make up for it.(the HID's have a certain cool factor, that's for sure)

 

[chimyz]

Good work JB...looks hawt on the truck. If you have time, could you take some pics of the total package. I bet it looks good with the colour matched front bumper.

 

[JBHorne]

Good work JB...looks hawt on the truck. If you have time, could you take some pics of the total package. I bet it looks good with the colour matched front bumper.

Yup, I'm going to do this soon. I need a good backdrop though.

Parking it at the mall doesn't cut it for mud pics

 

[donjuanmiguel]

Don, where did you get that stuff? I'd like to find it locally (I have to admit I haven't looked much...)

I found it at a local CarQuest auto parts store, item #CPB 14991 and called Multipurpose Weatherstrip. Only came in a 10' roll for $24.

 

[fvunen]

ARB or Toyota original

I've read the various treads on the installation of ARB front and rear bars and am still very undecided about doing this to my LC200. My objectives are the ability to carry 2 spare wheels and a larger amount of fuel than the puny standard tank.
One of the alternatives I've been looking at is the use of standard Toyota parts to achieve this. Toyota is supplying, here in Saudi Arabia, a model called GXR V8 "Winch" and is ex-works equipped with off-road goodies like 2 spare wheels, locking diffs and a winch on the front. One of the spare wheels is carried under the frame (the "standard" location), the second one on a wheel carrier similar to those on the LC120 and 100. Mounting this carrier requires a different lower rear door (assymetrical mounting of licence plate, lights), a different right side quarter panel, bumper with hinge point, and a mounting point halfway up the right hand side rear pillar. Looks of the vehicle are pretty much the same as standard.
Issue with the standard vehicle is the GXR level of equipment which is pretty basic. Moving to a VXR with all the goodies and you can't get the extra spare, winch, etc, which brings me on the topic of retrofitting the standard Toyota parts. Benefits of this would be a vehicle that looks neater (at least in my view) than with the rather square ARB bars and is a lot lighter (handy in the sand). Has anybody tried such a conversion or could think of a compelling reason not to do this but go with ARB instead?
Thanks!

 

[matt60/80]

Are you sure about swapping out the rear hatch? From the pics I've seen it looks to be the same set up as the 80 where there the license plate holder is mounted on the USDS. The swing out tire carrier is probably the same sheet metal with reinforcements added behind.

 

[fvunen]

Yes, the sheet metal of the lower half is different than on the version without the spare on the door. I'll see if I can make some pics tomorrow. Construction of the wheel carrier is indeed very similar to earlier models.

 

[JBHorne]

I've read the various treads on the installation of ARB front and rear bars and am still very undecided about doing this to my LC200. My objectives are the ability to carry 2 spare wheels and a larger amount of fuel than the puny standard tank.
One of the alternatives I've been looking at is the use of standard Toyota parts to achieve this. Toyota is supplying, here in Saudi Arabia, a model called GXR V8 "Winch" and is ex-works equipped with off-road goodies like 2 spare wheels, locking diffs and a winch on the front. One of the spare wheels is carried under the frame (the "standard" location), the second one on a wheel carrier similar to those on the LC120 and 100. Mounting this carrier requires a different lower rear door (assymetrical mounting of licence plate, lights), a different right side quarter panel, bumper with hinge point, and a mounting point halfway up the right hand side rear pillar. Looks of the vehicle are pretty much the same as standard.
Issue with the standard vehicle is the GXR level of equipment which is pretty basic. Moving to a VXR with all the goodies and you can't get the extra spare, winch, etc, which brings me on the topic of retrofitting the standard Toyota parts. Benefits of this would be a vehicle that looks neater (at least in my view) than with the rather square ARB bars and is a lot lighter (handy in the sand). Has anybody tried such a conversion or could think of a compelling reason not to do this but go with ARB instead?
Thanks!

I'd love to see pictures of the factory winch and especially those factory lockers. Are they both front and rear? Can you get a picture of the switch? I'd love to see the switch Toyota uses for factory lockers in a 200-series.

I've seen a small picture of the factory winch, but never any specs. Can you get a picture and specs? It appears to be installed somehow in a reinforced mount, but under a plastic bumper cover very similar to the stock 200.

Without the increased approach and departure angle, then what's the point?

I'd much rather have the very sturdy ARBs, but I do understand your concern about weight in the sand.

With everything I've done, this is one heavy beast that I'd want the 5.7 to pull it. Put this stuff on the 4.7 and you're gonna feel it.

 

[fvunen]

I've not been able to find a 'winch" version at the dealer today but will scout around for one in the next couple of days and take pics as requested.
On the winch, yes mounted in a cut-out in the bumper under a little plastic cover.
Re the diff-locks, I believe only the rear locks but will have a look at both the switch as well as the user manual. Switch is located on the facia between the 4H-4L switch and steering wheel.

Departure / approach angle is an issue but from the various ARB posts there doesn't seems to be much improvement if any in this respect. Sturdiness would be much improved I guess but is that worth the penalty in looks and weight.