ARB locker problem

[FLYINGLOW]

Well I think I know the answer to this but thought I'd toss it out there anyway... I was having a problem with gear oil coming out the solenoid for my ARB that has been trouble free for 9 years and about 45000 miles. A quick call has landed me some o-rings and lock tabs on order, apparently you should do some routine maintenance every couple years...

Now I removed the third, tossed in my spare with an Aussie so I can have some bench time without rushing to get it going for the gong show this weekend. When I removed the adjuster nut on the r/h side to pull the carrier out this is what I found.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

sorry about focus, but I think you can see how the 'washer' is bent. It is bent pretty evenly at all 3 holes. I am guessing it was my ham-fisting (not using a torque wrench) during install. I am worried about bending it straight to re-use it because I figure the holes will just become oval when it is bent straight. I am thinking of drilling and tapping new holes though... If you don't know what it is, its the piece that mounts this:

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Please let me know what you guys think.

 

[Poser]

Now I removed the third, tossed in my spare with an Aussie so I can have some bench time without rushing...

Since you are not in a hurry, why not order the correct replacement part from the same place that you are getting the new o-rings from?



Also,

What is going on with the copper tube?

Is there a wear area sealed up with silicone?

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Since you are not in a hurry, why not order the correct replacement part from the same place that you are getting the new o-rings from?



Also,

What is going on with the copper tube?

Is there a wear area sealed up with silicone?

Ya, that is what I figured. Have you seen this before Poser? How often do you recommend the units to be serviced? I did a search and found a couple people mentioned the same problem with the oil coming out the solenoid.

I might be a hack, but not that much... The silicon is there because I thought the clearance would be tight. I believe the instructions said to put silicon on where it might contact the diff cover. There is no evidence of wear.

 

[Poser]

Since you have it all apart already, I would switch it over to the new floating seal housing, quad-rings, adjuster nut and clip set up. I would also change the bulkhead fitting to the new style, as I am pretty sure you will have to in order to change over to that new seal housing and associated pieces.

Get the serial number off your air locker, it should be inscribed into the exterior of the housing, call ARB and make sure that you can update this unit.


As far as 'servicing' these units goes, if they are not leaking, I do not mess with them. There are many units that I have installed that have not ever been apart, do not pump oil, and have only had the gear oil changed in them.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Ok, a quick look at the ARB site and I think I see what you are talking about when you mention the floating seal, it is available for this unit. What are the quad-rings though? O-rings? Why replace the adjuster ring? Thanks again Poser.

 

[yzftaco]

I have the newer style ARB, was extremely careful installing all the seals,,

I have oil coming to my Pneumatic switch also.. (Not using the arb switch) Only when I'm using the locker.... i can drive 300 miles with no locker and no oil.

 

[Cirbo]

I've actually massaged (hammered) those rings flat a few times without incident.

 

[Poser]

Ok, a quick look at the ARB site and I think I see what you are talking about when you mention the floating seal, it is available for this unit. What are the quad-rings though? O-rings? Why replace the adjuster ring? Thanks again Poser.

I was not 100 percent certain that when the seal housing changed that ARB did or did not change the adjusting ring/nut. For some reason, I thought that ARB had changed the adjusting nut when they updated the seal housing, but that is not the case. The old adjusting ring/nut is compatible with the new seal housing and retaining clip.


The quad rings are the new seals which are a square cut design with raised sealing edges that are used with the new style seal housing.


So to surmise;

Update your seal housing and seal rings along with the new retaining clip and bulkhead fitting. The new bulkhead fitting is required because the copper tube diameter and method of sealing around the copper tube has changed.

Also-

Are you getting ANY oil out of the ARB housing itself when tipped and set on the bench in such a way so as to permit the air hole in the piston cap to be the lowest point and drain?


If you are or have got any oil out of the ARB housing itself, you will want to remove the lock tabs on the cylinder housing retaining bolts, remove the bolts, use compressed air to get the piston/U-ring out of the cylinder housing and clean the oil out of this housing.



Don’t sweat tearing the ARB apart. It is not that big of a deal. Just let ARB know that you are doing this if you do, so that they can send you new bolts and locking tabs.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I have the newer style ARB, was extremely careful installing all the seals,,

I have oil coming to my Pneumatic switch also.. (Not using the arb switch) Only when I'm using the locker.... i can drive 300 miles with no locker and no oil.

Do you mean only when you release the air? When I pulled the seal housing off it was full of gear oil. Mine was spraying oil out when I shut it off. I have always used an 5 gallon air tank for mine and I can run all day with the locker on and not loose much air in the tank so it can't be leaking too bad. Also I have a breather tube on the diff, not the factory vent.

I've actually massaged (hammered) those rings flat a few times without incident.

Ya, I thought of that, I'm worried that the holes will be stretched though after it straightens out.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I was not 100 percent certain that when the seal housing changed that ARB did or did not change the adjusting ring/nut. For some reason, I thought that ARB had changed the adjusting nut when they updated the seal housing, but that is not the case. The old adjusting ring/nut is compatible with the new seal housing and retaining clip.


The quad rings are the new seals which are a square cut design with raised sealing edges that are used with the new style seal housing.


So to surmise;

Update your seal housing and seal rings along with the new retaining clip and bulkhead fitting. The new bulkhead fitting is required because the copper tube diameter and method of sealing around the copper tube has changed.

Also-

Are you getting ANY oil out of the ARB housing itself when tipped and set on the bench in such a way so as to permit the air hole in the piston cap to be the lowest point and drain?


If you are or have got any oil out of the ARB housing itself, you will want to remove the lock tabs on the cylinder housing retaining bolts, remove the bolts, use compressed air to get the piston/U-ring out of the cylinder housing and clean the oil out of this housing.



Don’t sweat tearing the ARB apart. It is not that big of a deal. Just let ARB know that you are doing this if you do, so that they can send you new bolts and locking tabs.

Thanks Poser, I have already got some bolts, tabs and piston seals on order. I was gonna do that part to sinse its out of the truck now. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[yzftaco]

You couldn't have described it better.. Only difference is I'm using a Co2 tank, to a regulator, to the pneumatic switches, to the lockers...

Pretty much when I switch off the lockers is when it does it.. Like you, I have no air pressure loss when wheeling.. I also have the extended breathers

Do you mean only when you release the air? Mine was spraying oil out when I shut it off. I have always used an 5 gallon air tank for mine and I can run all day with the locker on and not loose much air in the tank so it can't be leaking too bad. Also I have a breather tube on the diff, not the factory vent.

 

[snailwagon]

I have the same problem. I got some updated o-rings, just never got to installing them. Will hold pressure all day without kicking the compressor on though. Locker started doing it a few months after installation, kind of ignored it for the last 2 years.

 

[Tech Tim]

I've actually massaged (hammered) those rings flat a few times without incident.

x2, No problem hammering that ring flat, I've done it many times and never had a problem.

Since you have it all apart already, I would switch it over to the new floating seal housing, quad-rings, adjuster nut and clip set up. I would also change the bulkhead fitting to the new style, as I am pretty sure you will have to in order to change over to that new seal housing and associated pieces.

Get the serial number off your air locker, it should be inscribed into the exterior of the housing, call ARB and make sure that you can update this unit.

Poser is spot on. Call ARB with the serial number and step up to the clip style seal housing, they give much better alignment as they can float and move with the differential always keeping themselves concentric.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I have sinse learned that you should use a feeler gauge to center that seal housing more if using the old style. I will upgrade though but thought I'd pass on that bit of info to everyone else.

Poser do you have a torque value of the 8 bolts that are on the end of the carrier? Just standard? On the helicopters most hardware with 12 point heads is not standard torques and those bolts don't look like standard metric hardware.

 

[77cruiser]

i have the same problem but my locker wont even engage. Sucks that its pretty much brand new. Its also odd that alot of folks have the same problem but ARB hasnt fixed it.

 

[Tech Tim]

I have since learned that you should use a feeler gauge to center that seal housing more if using the old style. I will upgrade though but thought I'd pass on that bit of info to everyone else.

The feeler gauge is the old way to do it. The easiest (and best IMO) is to set the seal housing in place, run the screws in just enough to engage the collar. Then have an assistant apply air to the fitting and spin the pinion; this will use air pressure and the concentricity of the journal to perfectly center that seal housing. While that is happening, torque down the 3 bolts.

Snip...do you have a torque value of the 8 bolts that are on the end of the carrier?...unsnip

30 ftlbs of torque for the big 'uns.
13 ft lbs for the lil 'uns.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

The feeler gauge is the old way to do it. The easiest (and best IMO) is to set the seal housing in place, run the screws in just enough to engage the collar. Then have an assistant apply air to the fitting and spin the pinion; this will use air pressure and the concentricity of the journal to perfectly center that seal housing. While that is happening, torque down the 3 bolts.



30 ftlbs of torque for the big 'uns.
13 ft lbs for the lil 'uns.

Thanks Tim, that is alot more than standard torque! Thanks for the tip about the seal housing too.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

i have the same problem but my locker wont even engage. Sucks that its pretty much brand new. Its also odd that alot of folks have the same problem but ARB hasnt fixed it.

Sounds like a different problem. Mine engages fine, yours is probably the newer model and I haven't heard about the problem that you mention. What have you checked out on it?