ARB front/rear locker install

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trackmagic

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Now that I’ve got onboard air installed I’m getting ready to finish my build with ARB front/rear lockers. My initial plan was the outsource the differential work, but after getting quotes for $2500 diffs removed or $3600 full I’m now planning to just use that money for the tools to do myself.

Anyone have good guide or resources?

I’ve got a dial indicator for backlash. Will need to purchase a bearing press and carrier/pinion bearing puller. Any other specialty tools I should look into before diving in?

Any advice appreciated!
 
I do have something to add regarding OBA. I currently have two front ARB lockers that have internal air leaks and I dread taking them apart to repair. The ARB pressure switch runs at 150psi open and 135 psi close but the lockers only need 70 psi to activate.... though they will be slower, at the lower pressure. But lower the pressure and less chance of breaking any seals. So, my advice is to run a lower pressure.... maybe even just run a mini-compressor for the lockers and a separate OBA for everything else.

Also, one time my buddies compressor failed. Fortunately, he had a manifold on his OBA. We were able to hyper-inflate his spare tire. Then run an air hose from the tire to the manifold and was able to activate/de-activate his lockers for the rest of the trail home. :cheers:
 
hoser said:
I do have something to add regarding OBA. I currently have two front ARB lockers that have internal air leaks and I dread taking them apart to repair. The ARB pressure switch runs at 150psi open and 135 psi close but the lockers only need 70 psi to activate.... though they will be slower, at the lower pressure. But lower the pressure and less chance of breaking any seals. So, my advice is to run a lower pressure.... maybe even just run a mini-compressor for the lockers and a separate OBA for everything else.

Also, one time my buddies compressor failed. Fortunately, he had a manifold on his OBA. We were able to hyper-inflate his spare tire. Then run an air hose from the tire to the manifold and was able to activate/de-activate his lockers for the rest of the trail home. :cheers:
Click to expand...
Makes sense. Could just put in a static pressure regulator like this between ARB manifold/solenoid and locker. Get one for say 95 psi.

Regulator


Love the tire story. That’s smart
 
Hmm, that regulator sounds like a great idea. I never thought about it because my lockers run on the ARB mini compressors.
 
Using this as an excuse to expand the tool collection. Ordered a clamshell carrier and pinion bearing puller and going to use my Harbor freight coupon to get the 20 ton press tomorrow.

Any other specialty tools that come to mind?

Is it worth replacing the R&P bearings or anything else while in there? The two cruisetec rebuild kits for front and rear would add about $500. I’d prefer to keep simple, but if I’m being an idiot by not replacing all that I’d prefer to do it correctly once.

IMG_6044.png
 
trackmagic said:
Using this as an excuse to expand the tool collection. Ordered a clamshell carrier and pinion bearing puller and going to use my Harbor freight coupon to get the 20 ton press tomorrow.

Any other specialty tools that come to mind?

Is it worth replacing the R&P bearings or anything else while in there?
Click to expand...
If the bearings are in the area of 150k miles old, I would say go ahead replace them. The press will be a critical tool on this project. Pretty much doable with the correct tools that you will discover and realize along the way. Sub’d on this thread 👍🏽
 
 
vipergrhd said:
This tool kit should work, I hope. You will need a holder or a vise big enough to hold the carrier too.

Click to expand...
This is the one I purchased. Same concept. Appreciate the reply

IMG_6058.jpeg
 
You should be good with that pinion bearing puller. Like was stated above, you’ll need to press the new bearings back on, so shop press will be required (unless that puller does cool stuff I don’t know about). You may need to remove the pinion multiple times if you don’t nail the spacer on it the first time. Buy at least one extra crush sleeve per axle. Read and read and re-read the Zuk links above, not only for all 100series installs, but for other ARB airlocker installs until you can do the whole process in your head. Then you’ll be ready to pick up tools and try it yourself.

As a novice, once you set backlash and check running torques, the hardest part will be reading and interpreting the wear pattern on the gears (you’ll need Prussian blue or yellow gear marking compound). You can email Zuk if you’re so lucky to get a response, or you can post here, but I highly recommend posting on Pirate4x4 for a higher likelihood of informed responses on gear patterns.

Ive said it before on mud, but on my first install I probably had the carrier in and out 15 times in order to set carrier shims. I took like 5-7 times just to get a wear pattern that showed I needed a different pinion shim. All this to say it’s tedious but not overly complex work. Read read read, be patient, and you’ll get it done!
 
I guess you won't need the other clamshell as long you have the one you need. My other suggestion would be a hotplate, I like to put the bearing on the hotplate and I just drop them on the carrier housing and pinion. A pinion holder would be nice to help you set the turning torque on your pinion once you do the final torque.
 
Anyone go with a solid pinion spacer over the crush sleeve? May take longer to dial in, but some rock damage insurance. (Planning to beat the s*** out of this rig :) )
 
I did specify to my installer to use a solid spacer. I don't know if it has made a difference but I have yet to break my front diff in the 15+ yrs it's been installed.
 
trackmagic said:
Anyone go with a solid pinion spacer over the crush sleeve? May take longer to dial in, but some rock damage insurance. (Planning to beat the s*** out of this rig :) )
Click to expand...
I did not but kinda wish I did. The additional benefit beyond strength is no need to tear apart the diff if your pinion seal goes bad.
 
Well. Got the ring gear and carrier bearings pressed onto ARB. Pulled pinion and put on new inner bearing and new races in the housing. For some reason the outer pinion bearing and seal are wrong and don’t fit with the kit I purchased. I caught the bearing first and then said screw it and reused old one only to press in the new pinion seal only to find out it’s totally wrong.


This was the kit I purchased. I’m assuming I ordered the wrong one? Of course happens on a Sunday so will need to wait to call the cruiser tec guys tomorrow.

Kit

IMG_6192.jpeg


IMG_6194.jpeg
 
well. Talked to cruiser outfitters and sounds like since this is a late model lx470 some of them ended up getting 200 series parts and that would explain the slightly different pinion bearing.

I had finished up most of the diff this AM with the original bearing so now hoping that all works out.
 
Almost complete. Next day off will need to test fire with the compressor and then get re-installed.

An extremely steep learning curve and lots of frustrations, but happy I am trying to tackle myself. Assuming this one was done properly…I think the front will go a lot quicker/smoother.

IMG_6238.jpeg
 
Donaaayyy said:
Maybe too late but did you consider a re-gear or 3.10:1 low range reduction gear?
Click to expand...
Considered, but didn’t pull trigger. Stock gearing hasn’t bothered me w/ 5spd on 35’s yet. Probably close to done with this build money wise. It’s about perfect for a mild trail truck for me at the moment.

Looking into either an 80 series to link and put on 40’s and thrash or find something else build for some more serious wheeling.
 
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