ARB front locker quote (3 Viewers)

[kashmir]

Is $2300 a good price for front ARB air locker installation (including high output air compressor) parts and labor?

I thought it would be lower, but that was based on almost nothing. Not too many places to get quotes for this...

 

[uzj100]

Seems high. Post in the tx club forums and ask for the best place for locker install near you.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Without seeing details it is impossible to know what is included, hence not sure if it is fair.

New bearings? New seals on the axle tubes? How is the wiring done? Factory Toyota switches or ARB hacked into the dash? What compressor is speced? Etc etc. Can it be done cheaper, probably but if done right, that is probably pretty close to the correct number.

FWIW ARB is starting to introduce MAP pricing so prices are going to stabilize and be pretty consistent across the board.

 

[neoworm]

I paid just over 3g for front and rear in a 100 series. That is just the lockers themselves, installed in the diffs. I did the compressor and everything else. From JT's differentials. Just for comparison.

IFS is a bit more Labour though.

 

[RobRed]

1300 ish for front diff and the HO compressor before labor... seems ball park.

 

[kashmir]

Very helpful guys - thanks!

It seems like it isn't a huge disadvantage to wait and do rear lockers later - front lockers and rear LSD will probably be all I ever need...

 

[TwiceWithHair]

Want > Need

 

[lexi4darin]

Why LSD rear in this type of vehicle?

 

[Layonnn]

Without seeing details it is impossible to know what is included, hence not sure if it is fair.

New bearings? New seals on the axle tubes? How is the wiring done? Factory Toyota switches or ARB hacked into the dash? What compressor is speced? Etc etc. Can it be done cheaper, probably but if done right, that is probably pretty close to the correct number.

FWIW ARB is starting to introduce MAP pricing so prices are going to stabilize and be pretty consistent across the board.

I thought ARB had MAP pricing for a while? I know of a few vendors who have ARB sales all the time and say they can't post the price, and the price for the bumpers, snorkels, etc are pretty much the same on all websites.

To the OP, you can easily lower the price by installing the compressor and switches on your own. You are still looking at about 6-8 hours of labor for them to install it. I paid 600/axle for ARB/gears install. I provided all fluid, master install kit, gears, and lockers, and installed the compressor and wiring myself (mainly because i didn't want them to butcher up the install or my truck doing it).
As for pricing of the parts you are buying, you could be over paying a lot. There is absolutely no way to know unless you get them to break down everythings individual pricing to you.

Why LSD rear in this type of vehicle?

98-99 LX470s didn't have the option of a rear locker, only rear LSD. (not positive on if it was optional or standard though)

 

[mookamatook]

So I think I may want to replace the front lockers for the IFS (little articulation/droop) when a tire is lifted and have ATRAC for most other/less demanding situations. Is that the right idea? If I can only do one locker, do you lock the front or rear? Mainly doing overland stuff with some hills, snow, sand, and little rock crawling. Thoughts?

 

[Cola]

So I think I may want to replace the front lockers for the IFS (little articulation/droop) when a tire is lifted and have ATRAC for most other/less demanding situations. Is that the right idea? If I can only do one locker, do you lock the front or rear? Mainly doing overland stuff with some hills, snow, sand, and little rock crawling. Thoughts?

Two schools of thought.

Rear: generally more useful and still retain full ability to turn with atrac up front. Pretty awesome combo

Front: useful "preventative" mod. Strengthens the front diff substantial even when not locked. But limits your ability to turn while locked. I have both and I would say their usage is 90% rear, 10% both.

My vote is rear if you can only do one.

 

[mookamatook]

Two schools of thought.

Rear: generally more useful and still retain full ability to turn with atrac up front.

Front: useful "preventative" mod. Strengthens the front diff substantialy even when not locked. But limits your ability to turn while locked. I have both and I would say they're usage is 90% rear, 10% both.

My vote is rear if you can only do one.

Thanks for that awesome info and short/to the point reply. I really appreciate it. I will be installing one or the other in a few months here so wanting to get my ducks in a row. Being able to turn up front is a big plus to doing the rear. I know that once I get into some trails out in Moab I'll be wanting a locker somewhere, maybe I'll just need to do both. The problem is that the rig has 220000 miles on the odometer and I'm hesitating putting 150% of the purchase price into the car to get 2 lockers, front and rear bumper, winch, sliders, skids, tires, baselining maintenance, a fridge/slide, roof rack, and suspension...

 

[Cola]

Thanks for that awesome info and short/to the point reply. I really appreciate it. I will be installing one or the other in a few months here so wanting to get my ducks in a row. Being able to turn up front is a big plus to doing the rear. I know that once I get into some trails out in Moab I'll be wanting a locker somewhere, maybe I'll just need to do both. The problem is that the rig has 220000 miles on the odometer and I'm hesitating putting 150% of the purchase price into the car to get 2 lockers, front and rear bumper, winch, sliders, skids, tires, baselining maintenance, a fridge/slide, roof rack, and suspension...

I know the feeling, Im well over 300% over my 3,500 dollar buy in. That being said, the 100 series has won me over so i will be moving all my gear (lockers included) into my future 03+ when my 2000 is used up

 

[saucebox]

Thanks for that awesome info and short/to the point reply. I really appreciate it. I will be installing one or the other in a few months here so wanting to get my ducks in a row. Being able to turn up front is a big plus to doing the rear. I know that once I get into some trails out in Moab I'll be wanting a locker somewhere, maybe I'll just need to do both. The problem is that the rig has 220000 miles on the odometer and I'm hesitating putting 150% of the purchase price into the car to get 2 lockers, front and rear bumper, winch, sliders, skids, tires, baselining maintenance, a fridge/slide, roof rack, and suspension...

Why stop at 150%?

 

[mookamatook]

Why stop at 150%?

You're going to be a bad influence... It's just so tempting to put a bunch of savings into a rig that can really cover ground and take on hard trails. Just don't know if it's worth the cost to entry for this old of a vehicle.

 

[saucebox]

Ah shoot, just realized we were talking tanks a minute ago. I didn't connect the (very obvious) dots.

Joking aside, the most reasonable way to deal with it is to upgrade when you find you need whatever you're getting. You can get an awful long way in a stock 100. Assuming good care, 220K is nothing to worry about. I'd love to get the ARB locker, but I went with armor first. Until I grenade a diff, I probably won't worry about it. ATRAC has been good enough to go just about anywhere so far.

 

[mookamatook]

Ah shoot, just realized we were talking tanks a minute ago. I didn't connect the (very obvious) dots.

Joking aside, the most reasonable way to deal with it is to upgrade when you find you need whatever you're getting. You can get an awful long way in a stock 100. Assuming good care, 220K is nothing to worry about. I'd love to get the ARB locker, but I went with armor first. Until I grenade a diff, I probably won't worry about it. ATRAC has been good enough to go just about anywhere so far.

That's reassuring to hear that ATRAC has proven its worth, especially because you are probably dealing with a lot of the same trails that I'll encounter this next year out in UT. I may have to make some slider/skid/bumper purchases here this week...