April 1971 FJ40, questions and longterm build. (1 Viewer)

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Got the garage a little bit setup, at least enough to tinker on the FJ40. Sometimes you need to go back to move forward towards the correct goal. In this case FJ60 axle going in (2.75 inches wider and bigger knuckles) and a shackle reversal. I will be outboarding the spring hangers to match the perches on the axles. I have a complete FJ60 axle for the rear as well.

At this point I must decide. stay SUA maintain a low COG or go SOA. SOA will cost me more in steering components but "better/more" articulation.



 
4 rivets down 8 more to go. Fairly easy to do, just a little labor intensive. Measured from hole to hole..42 inches. Pre-drill pilot holes in the rivets then went up to a bigger bit and got the heads off. Cleaned off the frame a little and did some beer math. FJ60 axle spring perches are 2 3/4 inches wider than an FJ40s. That means I need to outboard the hangers 1 3/8 inch on each side. As far as I have gotten today.












 
Front hangers are in. need to box the rest of it in.








 
Chris,
your almost as bad as I am... Letting this thread die.. :(

You still workin on your 40? still around town?

Bill
 
Hahaha, yeah still working on it. It is slow going. I bought a house, live off of Gilmore trail. Putting the dash back together.

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Getting a few things done. All of the lights work, gauges and switches are good. I do need to change out the oil pressure sensor so it works with the gauge though.

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1989 FJ60 axle is under it. Just need to button up the passenger side fender. Going to flip the springs short side front again to get the shocks straight up again.

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Getting close. I have a cs130 alternator coming in this week and that should finish the charging system out. I flexed the suspension to measure bumpstops.. Front will require about a 5 inch extension.

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1 step forward, two steps back..but I feel in the right direction. Computer is already programmed for this setup so thats out of the way. I have the entire harness, computer and fuse block from the donor rig

2001 LM7 from Silvarado 1500, TH350, FJ60 split case (need to find one of these, but its the plan)

Usual parts list from Advanced Adapters and others:

Howell 5.3 harness ---------------------$600
GM Vortec LS & SBC Products :: 1999-04 GEN III Vortec Products :: Wiring Harnesses :: #HVL53 - GEN III VORTEC HARNESS: 1999-04 5.3L w/o Electronic Transmission

AA GM TH350 to Toyota Land Cruiser 19 spline t-case Adapter ---50-7401: $730.60
50-7401 : GM TH350 to Toyota Land Cruiser 19 spline transfer case Adapter Kit | Advance Adapters

AA Inside Frame Rail, Chevy LS Headers --717043-HDR: $258.00
717043-HDR : Inside Frame Rail ,Chevy Generation 3 LS series V8,Conversion headers | Advance Adapters

AA Engine Mounts----------------------713088: $135.48
713088 : GM Vortec LS series engine mount kit | Advance Adapters


Automatic Shifter
Option 1: 715681: Winters Sidewinder Gated Automatic Transmission Shifter | Advance Adapters

Cooling:
Option 1: 3.8 Liter Taurus Fan
Option 2: AA 4 Core Radiator and fan $$$$


a few incidentals left out as I do more research into how to tackle those items (will I have to change from my mini truck power steering?) Shift linkages, throttle linkages, radiator, driveshafts



conflict fitting:



 
Progress. Slapped the engine, Trans, and adapter together for a test fitting to figure out where the motor mounts are going to get burned in. Taurus radiator mounted to the radiator, almost like it was supposed to be there.
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Droidcruiser
 
Burned in the 5.3 motor mounts. I have about an inch between the water pump pulley and the cooling fan. Might be a little close, not sure how much the frame could twist and possibly bring it into the fan housing. I will have to keep an eye on that. Finally got my hands on a 1986 FJ60 split transfer case. Needed some cleaning, and removal from 4 speed transmission.








A couple notes when mating the AA TH350 adapter to the split case. AA does a good job in the instructions in regards to the assembly of the adapter, but when it comes to mating the case and the adapter only a couple notes were there. One of the notes was the snap ring that is shown in my pictures. The clearance is minuscule and I had to use the smaller snap ring, one not to add which was left out..use a brass punch and seat that snap ring in tight all around the bearing or it wont fit. The AA kit comes with a nice gasket set and an OEM input seal and some other hardware. Absolutely no instructions on this other hardware with the exception of the showing where the shifter plate mounts. It took some deduction to figure out that the plate requires three spacers which were provided and some allen bolts to mount it correctly. With this installed and the lever installed you can see about a 1/8 inch gap, see picture below for clarification. All I have to do now is clean the other half and reassemble.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/50-7401.pdf



SNAP RING GAP:



SNAP RINGS, remember to tap in to seat them.




GAP:



DIRTY HALF LEFT:





 
T_Case is 95% done, Just need to get the twin stick kit from Georg. Now onto the TH350 transmission. Currently has a 4wd drive shaft, the adapter calls for a 2wd shaft.



 
Depinned the ECM connectors, yanked all of the unused wires and rerouted the wiring once I got it all back together. Rebuilt the TH350 (like the T-Case I have never done this before) and installed the 2WD output shaft which then had to be cut down to fit the AA Adapter for the Split Case. Looking to either mount the ECM high on the passenger side firewall where my ARB compressor is, or in the glove box.

This is the link to all things LT1 conversion. I used this for wiring and other conversion hints: LT1 Swap

















Hopefully this all may be helpful to someone someday...
 
Your 40 is 1 month older than mine. If you want to daily drive the thing at all I can't say enough about a SBC 350/700R4/3spd transfercase combo using the Advanced Adapter kit. I commute everyday in my 40 and can cruise at 75 to 80 mph all day long.


Hahahaha, just went back and started reading my first page of this build again and my response to this...and here I am doing a 5.3/TH350/86 Splitcase build.
 
Wow! I can't believe the twists and turns your build has taken! Looks like the 40 is on the right path to be back on the road...this Summer? ;) Or are ya gonna find a 4bt, NV4500, and Dana 60's for it next? haha just kidding. IT looks great!

TK
 
Wow! I can't believe the twists and turns your build has taken! Looks like the 40 is on the right path to be back on the road...this Summer? ;) Or are ya gonna find a 4bt, NV4500, and Dana 60's for it next? haha just kidding. IT looks great!

TK

I know right! I know where a 4BT is and some dana 60s, but no this will work for now ;)

Super stoked. I heated up the 4L60E reluctor on the wood stove. Once is was super hot I slid it over the TH350 output shaft. I got it to where it looked right then checked with the transfer case flush to the transmission. Looking through the hole I needed to move it back about an 1/8 inch to center it. Separated the case and Trans and made the final adjustments with a 3# hammer and a piece of tubing (ring had cooled down by now) Put it all back together, looks like I have a winner and a significant savings after shipping over the jags that run system.

The plug is for the missing crankshaft sensor connector on the harness.












 
This weekend saw a few things come together. Stuffed the entire drive-train in, need to figure if I want to mod the stock FJ60 cross member or make one. I need to remove the frame tube and weld some scab supports over the holes. I am very pleased with the drive shaft lengths I am seeing right now.

Also decided since I am upgrading to modern amenities like Auto trans, fuel injection, and power steering why not stuff an FJ60 tilt column in there as well (if anyone has any questions about how I did this let me know). Maybe next will be a power convertible top, power windows and turn by turn nav with on-star.


Precarious times
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Tentative front drive shaft length:
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Rear:
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FJ60 power steering install.
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Hmm, wont work the way it was in the FJ60 due to the gas pedal pivot mount. Even if I cut the hole to fit and shifted it drivers side I did not like the look.
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So what goes inside is now out, I will weld this in-place and not bolt it. The two bolt cup part with the rubber o-ring will still be used though.
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Need to tighten things up and re do some wiring with all of the controls now on the column....or just cut those off..decisions decisions. I have the factory FJ60 plastics and those will go on, just need to figure out that to do to cover the rest. The FJ80 steering wheel is in a very natural and comfortable position.

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how much adjustment do you have in the steering wheel.
Right now it is just held in there by factory 71 Fj40 strap and two bolts. I will be getting into this more tonight and this weekend. Mocked up like it is sitting in the seat it comfortable for me at almost 6' 2" and 240#. I am also using an FJ80 steering wheel. It already looks like I will have to lengthen the shaft that does from the column to the steering gear box.
 
3/4 inch spacer plate installed. Need to extend and sleeve the steering shaft about 9 inches. Had to remove the F250 shock mount due to the gear box and shaft interference. I can either notch it and change the angle off the frame or get super cool and use a 3 1/4 inner diameter tube to make a pass through for the shaft.

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