Got the actuator all back together and bolted to the 3rd member, ready for install tomorrow. You saw the pic. above and how it looked when I opened it...I've attached a couple of pics of how it looked before I buttoned it up.
And here's a link to a YouTube vid I made showing it working on my bench: YouTube - ELockerMovie
Just some notes on the refurb:
I had to grind off the heads, drill out the leftover bolts, then retap all 3 bolt holes holding the motor cap on and all 3 bolts holding the main actuator cover on.
There is one bearing in the assembly, it supports the motor shaft. It was toast, but greased up well it well hopefully work well as just a bushing.
I soaked the entire assembly (minus the motor electronics) in C.L.R. It made short work of the rust and didn't appear to negatively impact the plastic or rubber in the assembly.
The measurements in a post above for positioning the actuator rod upon reassembly DID Not work for me. With the 3rd member on my bench it was simple to figure out where the rod needed to go by trial and error.
The thread with those measurements IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help also has a procedure for 'clocking' the gear and spring assembly correctly. This worked for me. I was able to verify with a test light that voltage to the motor was cut at the end of travel in both directions.
Thanks for the help MUD!!
mmuthart,
This is a good thread specially for rebuilding the rear e-locker. Can you please post how you connected those electrical wires to the lockers while testing the lock and unlock portion just like the one on your youtube video? Seems like all the pins on your switch has all electrical wires connected to something other than the battery. Please expand on those connections. Thanks.
You did a great job on the lock and unlock test ensuring the locker works.
