Anyone With Intimate Knowledge of ELocker Assembly Internal Workings? (1 Viewer)

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Got my elocker assembly apart for cleaning and something is not adding up for me....I could use some assistance.

Anyone very familiar with the internal workings? I'd like to pick your brain....
 

Cruiser804

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Been down this road myself. Search is the first place to start. There are many post concerning disassemble, repair, troubleshooting etc., many with pictures. See also FAQ.

There are a number of people here who know these inside out but will probably not join you on your fishing expedition until you have done your homework.
 
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Got my elocker assembly apart for cleaning and something is not adding up for me.
Front? Rear? Dog clutch portion? Electronics? Motor assembly?

Do you need to see how it goes back together? Are you looking for exploded parts view?

It is best to ask questions of the group as a whole because you'll get better answers from the collective (kinda like the Borg). :D

-B-
 
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The reason that picture looks different from your picture is because that picture is a front elocker mechanism.



Here is a picture of a rear mechanism.



-B-
 
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Beowulf,

Okay, wonderful, I'm not dealing with something different from the norm then.

I've actually got my rusty actuator all cleaned up. Other than some pitting on the steel pieces, I don't see any reason it shouldn't work if I can figure out how to get it back together. (Motor works fine.)

The position of Shift Lock Fork Shaft appears to be critical when putting it back together. Any help there?

Thanks,
Mark
 
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The position of Shift Lock Fork Shaft appears to be critical when putting it back together. Any help there?
I have never had one apart and Toyota manuals won't help because that component is not serviced other than as a complete assembly. That cut-away from the NCF is about the best you are going to get from Mr T.

There have been a couple of good threads on cleaning, lubing, and reassembly. I don't know how to easily point you to those threads other than request that you keep searching. The thread that you posted covered the front and had a link to Raven's rear thread where I pulled the above rear actuator image.

Suggested search terms: shift fork, rear, actuator, diff, locker
Do an advanced search and you might include other tech areas instead of just searching the 80-section 'cause these have been retrofitted in lotsa Toyotas. Use different combos of those search terms. Another strategy that I will use is to write down possible search terms that I didn't think of when I am reading a related thread. Sometimes you'll get a key word that will only be used when describing a certain procedure (like "clock spring" or "spiral spring" or something like that.)

Let me know if you come up empty and I'll try to help.

-B-
 
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Whidbey Island, Wa
when you put the shift fork back together it is kind of a trial and error if you didn't measure it before. Don't quote me on these figures as I cannot remember exactly, but they are close:
disengaged (shift for to the left) it should be near 2 3/8"
engaged (to the right) is should be near 2 13/16"

I put mine together with out sealing it first, got under the truck plugged it in and ran the switch in then out and measured, it took a couple of times but in all maybe 10 min to get it the measurements right. Then seal it back up and slap it in and you should be GTG.
 
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OK, so I was close, from Raven's post it is 2 3/16's and 2 7/8. I tried...
This is great! Thank you guys.

I finally got the actuator rod moving in and out of the assembly last night. The motor would wind the spring but the Final Gear (the small one) would not rotate, in turn, the actuator rod would not move. The little 'axle' (that holds the spings and both gears) was frozen in to the top of the cap. It was'nt till after staring at the assembly for an hour trying to figure out how the thing worked it dawned on me that the little axle MUST HAVE to spin where it seats in the cover plate. It was rusted solid, but now spins freely.

So my third member is on the bench and testing the whole thing should be pretty painless. I'll use the above measurments for the actuator rod as a starting point.

I'll report back with results and some pics of the cleaned up unit before I seal it up.

Again, thanks for the help gentlemen! I'm definitely on the right track. :beer:
 
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Got the actuator all back together and bolted to the 3rd member, ready for install tomorrow. You saw the pic. above and how it looked when I opened it...I've attached a couple of pics of how it looked before I buttoned it up.

And here's a link to a YouTube vid I made showing it working on my bench: YouTube - ELockerMovie

Just some notes on the refurb:

I had to grind off the heads, drill out the leftover bolts, then retap all 3 bolt holes holding the motor cap on and all 3 bolts holding the main actuator cover on.

There is one bearing in the assembly, it supports the motor shaft. It was toast, but greased up well it well hopefully work well as just a bushing.

I soaked the entire assembly (minus the motor electronics) in C.L.R. It made short work of the rust and didn't appear to negatively impact the plastic or rubber in the assembly.

The measurements in a post above for positioning the actuator rod upon reassembly DID Not work for me. With the 3rd member on my bench it was simple to figure out where the rod needed to go by trial and error.

The thread with those measurements IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help also has a procedure for 'clocking' the gear and spring assembly correctly. This worked for me. I was able to verify with a test light that voltage to the motor was cut at the end of travel in both directions.

Thanks for the help MUD!! :beer:
HPIM6984.JPG
HPIM6985.JPG
 
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If you were talking about the bearing that holds the rotor shaft I would recommend replacing it before putting it all back together. Just me but I wouldn't want to do it again, if all I had to do is swap out the bearing. You can have a starter/alternator shop swap the bearing if you don't have the stuff to do it.
 

ScottsHZJ80

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Holy back from the dead batman. Nice rebuild, I would have looked at the mess you pulled out in the first place, and thrown it in the bin!
 
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If you were talking about the bearing that holds the rotor shaft I would recommend replacing it before putting it all back together. Just me but I wouldn't want to do it again, if all I had to do is swap out the bearing. You can have a starter/alternator shop swap the bearing if you don't have the stuff to do it.
Too late, it's all back together. Didn't think I'd have much luck finding an exact replacement. I think it will work fine as a bushing but only time will tell.

One thing is for sure, if/when I have to take it apart again, I'll know exactly what I'm doing. :D
 

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