Anyone running SCS SR8 wheels on their 200? (1 Viewer)

[Markuson]

Oh don't get me wrong; gaijin has made a pretty compelling case to not bother with a sub 2500 lbs wheel. I'm more just curious at this point.

It might be that there are no failures and that might be because the people running them simply don't manage to fail them with how they use their vehicle, mostly in road for instance. But the risk is still inherent at least in theory.

I do really like the SCS wheels though and would love to have them provide a counter case. However, I am also still liking the Method Double Standard but how is it possible that they are rated 1,000 lbs more than the Method NV in the same size, offset, and within a pound in mass?

Like I said, curious.

First, let me say that I consider Gaijin THE tire/wheel guru...so I take his recommendations at face value. But still, I share your curiosity as well, since the only wheel failure stuff I've been able to find are along the lines of rock damage, where the rim gets bashed and bent in. I've not found failure attributed to lack of over all strength, but maybe my Googling skills were off...

Anyone wanna share a search result or link? Curious to see a wheel failure that's simply from too much weight.

 

[silverhorse]

This is how I think about wheels and other parts for that matter. I have never owned a car and I'm almost 50. I have always had toyota 4x4's ...
The quality is unmatched. So why put a Chinese wheel on it? I will only use a stock Toyota wheel(manufactured by whoever they use) or a high quality USA product, if I can find it.... There are very few, only one I know of off hand that still make wheels in the USA, American Eagle or Eagle Alloy. and only if they have a weight rating suitable... I have seen aluminum wheels break, that is one good point for steel, it bends.. Anyhow, a wheel is a huge safety concern as is tire selection, so choose wisely!

 

[TonyP]

Additionally there's much to be said about forged vs cast as far as strength goes. Another reason why the RWs reign supreme in the current market.

 

[sickspeed]

Obviously forged is better but its also typically quite a bit more expensive and its arguable that adequate strength can be had from cast. I'm still curious how the Method Double Standard differs from the NV to get an extra 1,000 lbs of strength.

As far as the SCS wheels, it seems that SCS is targeting the Tundra, 4Runner, Taco crowd but I am still baffled that so many full size Tundra owners are running them given that the new full size Tundra typically weighs more than a LC in stock form and without loading the bed.

 

[TonyP]

Just because people do things doesn't mean it's a wise or safe decision. Obama was elected twice after all.

 

[sickspeed]

and then it becomes a competition to see who can be dumber and that's how we ended up with trump.

If I still had my Tacoma or 4runner, I would definitely consider the SCS. But it looks like I'll be ordering some Methods soon. Now whether to do 285 or 305...

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm with gaijin, and it's also why I prefer OEM wheels.

OEMs go through a lot of testing and validation, and subject their parts and wheels to way more stress than the typical owner will dish. It's because they have to consider the extreme user and not the nominal user, especially so for Land Cruiser. A lower rated wheel will not catastrophically fail the moment you overload them, but they are subject to wear and fatigue over time. It likely will never fail. Though things tend to happen at opportune times such as hitting a pothole or whoop while fully loaded on vacation.

 

[sickspeed]

I'm with gaijin, and it's also why I prefer OEM wheels.

OEMs go through a lot of testing and validation, and subject their parts and wheels to way more stress than the typical owner will dish. It's because they have to consider the extreme user and not the nominal user, especially so for Land Cruiser. A lower rated wheel will not catastrophically fail the moment you overload them, but they are subject to wear and fatigue over time. It likely will never fail. Though things tend to happen at opportune times such as hitting a pothole or whoop while fully loaded on vacation.

I just wish the oem wheels were a little wider and had a lower offset. I suppose I could go the wheel spacer route. I don't do any serious off-roading.

 

[Markuson]

I just wish the oem wheels were a little wider and had a lower offset. I suppose I could go the wheel spacer route. I don't do any serious off-roading.

Right now I'm running Rock Warrior wheels +50 (so 10mm wider) plus a 1.25" spidertrax spacer with 285/70/17 KO2's. Makes for a very nice...baaarely-past-flush-with-fenders stance.

 

[sickspeed]

Right now I'm running Rock Warrior wheels +50 (so 10mm wider) plus a 1.25" spidertrax spacer with 285/70/17 KO2's. Makes for a very nice...baaarely-past-flush-with-fenders stance.

If I'm going to spend the money for new wheels, I'd rather not bother with spacers. Hence, why I'm eyeing wheels with an offset of et25.

 

[Markuson]

If I'm going to spend the money for new wheels, I'd rather not bother with spacers. Hence, why I'm eyeing wheels with an offset of et25.

One thing to consider though... If you ever want to go big such as 35's, you can take the spacers OFF...and use the same wheels. Never gonna get 35x12 to work with a +20...

I'm considering 35's, and if I go for it, taking my spacers off will give me roughly the same width stance, but with inside room at +50.

 

[hoser]

Paging @Golgo13

 

[Golgo13]

@hoser what are you asking me to weigh in on here? I see a lot of good information from @gaijin and lots of other posts with opinions or "this is what I did, so it must be OK" or "this LOOKS better, so it must be better" mindsets.

I guess here is what I have to say, mostly based in engineering facts, and I'm not looking to get into an argument.

Spacers are a terrible idea. moving the wheel center further outboard increases stress on the hubs and knuckles and steering system. Don't do it. or at least don't complain about bad design when something breaks.

Forgings are superior to castings because the materials used are stronger.
However, if you design two wheels with the same set of requirements, they will meet those requirements.
One is not necessarily better than the other except for the fact that Castings are much cheaper to produce and Forgings have a higher strength to weight ratio.
Either way, an aluminum wheel, once damaged, should not be "repaired" because aluminum sucks when it comes to repair-ability. Castings are worst, but either way, once it is bent, you always run the risk of it cracking where you just introduced a cold-working zone.

If you run the same tests with the same loads on a wheel designed by Toyota and a wheel designed by some aftermarket company, I guarantee the Toyota wheel will out-live the aftermarket wheel regardless of material or processing. They answer to a higher authority than SAE and DOT, the customer. In this case, the customer isn't our crowd, its guys in war-zones and out in the bush who need to load their truck and drive the crap out of it all the time every day. Safety factors are baked into the OE wheel which far surpass anything required by any government agency.
SAE wheel design is based on GAWR of rear axle for rolling durability and GAWR of front axle for cornering fatigue. Tire capacity is typically only used as a limit when the GAWR can equal or exceed the tire capacity due to commonized design or other factors.

Hope that helps!

 

[sickspeed]

I have no plans to run anything larger than a 33 or 34" tire and have no time for serious offroading. The cruiser is mostly for family trips and getting out on some fire roads for hiking and biking and to the resort when it snows.

I have run spacers on my Audis in the past (currently have spacers on my Audi Q7 TDI - soon to be bought back by Audi) without issue but always used high quality parts. That being said, the argument about introducing wear and tear on the hubs and steering equipment actually applies for anything that moves the centerline of the wheel, so whether you do that by adding spacers or by choosing a wheel with a lower offset, it is still a potential issue. Spacers do add weight, however. 40-50 mm though is not going to add much in the way of risk or wear. The 200 is ultimately over engineered for my purposes anyway since I won't be driving across the desert anytime soon. I actually like the stock wheels but wish the offset was better and that they were a little wider as well.

 

[TonyP]

I had a wheel bearing prematurely s*** the bed due to spacers. The risk is real. That being said, I have spacers on my 200. But I'm fully aware of the added maintenance.