Anyone add subwoofer to 07 FJC? (1 Viewer)

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Dec 1, 2007
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Orange County, Ca
Was thinking about adding a subwoofer to my FJC and was wondering if anyone has done this already and what steps did you have to go through?

I want to keep the stock head unit for now so is there a subwoofer out plug on the back? Is the cable already run for the subwoofer option?

I just kinda want to have an idea what I am getting myself into before I start taking out all the panels......lol. Any advice or tips from experience is much appreciated....thanks
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj-cruiser/186120-subwoofer-wiring-question.html

i added a sub to mine, the harness plug was/is there, possibly not in a base base model.

anyway, i found a plug that matches and wired it up.
i am running a 10" and a 200 watt amp.
i think it works fine and matches the rest of th FJammer system.
let me know if you need any more info

thanks gnob!! very helpful!! I may just try and find someone that is selling the factory oem sub box online, there was one on ebay for $350, cause I already have a 10" JL and the amp and since the harness is already there the install would be a snap and look and fit perfect...I just don't want to lose the cargo space
 
thanks gnob!! very helpful!! I may just try and find someone that is selling the factory oem sub box online, there was one on ebay for $350, cause I already have a 10" JL and the amp and since the harness is already there the install would be a snap and look and fit perfect...I just don't want to lose the cargo space
.

just found out my buddy who is a used car mechanic can get toyota parts for cost so I am probably gonna go with factory sub enclosure and just swap the stock speaker for my JL.....side note....I called the dealership and they said they could get the part(grill for speaker $300, yeah thats just the grill....speaker, amp, enclosure for $990!! so they want $1290 and that is just for the parts) but he said you couldn't install it...I told him I have seen pictures of someone else doing it and that the wiring harness is already there for the sub....he told me that was good to know....obviously the parts guy hasn't sold this part before....lol
 
the cargo space was my primary concern as well.
the cargo space on teh old xterra was chewed up with a box with 2 12" woofers.
i didnt want to make that mistake again.
i was able to use the factory wiring, as it is set up to handle 20 amps, which equates roughly to the 200 watts. (okay 200-280 watts)

anyway the point of this post is that i am pretty sure you could build your own box for well under 100 bucks.
i still need to build a new box for my sub, as it is currently "scabbed" in there.

if you didnt already know the EWD is available on this site for the wiring work.
 
the cargo space was my primary concern as well.
the cargo space on teh old xterra was chewed up with a box with 2 12" woofers.
i didnt want to make that mistake again.
i was able to use the factory wiring, as it is set up to handle 20 amps, which equates roughly to the 200 watts. (okay 200-280 watts)

anyway the point of this post is that i am pretty sure you could build your own box for well under 100 bucks.
i still need to build a new box for my sub, as it is currently "scabbed" in there.

if you didnt already know the EWD is available on this site for the wiring work.

I was looking for the wiring diagram.....could you post a link?......and I have looked at other custom boxes and they are around $300 as well and I don't want a cheesy homemade box.....I want something that looks professional so I will pay the extra cash for it.....if you know someone that makes custom fiberglass enclosures, please let me know....
 
http://brockandbecca.com/files/fj/FJ_Electrical.pdf

dont know anyone that does glass boxes.
i will post pics of my cheesy homemade box later :flipoff2:

Sorry dude, didn't mean to come off as insulting.....just last time me and my buddy built a box it worked fine but looked pretty cheesy and I had it strapped down with like a bungee cord....lol....so everytime i think of a homemade box it makes me think of that scene and I want to try and avoid that this time and make it look clean and nice and also have it out of the way so it doesn't take up storage apace......I'm sure yours will look good when done....I want to see pics.....I just don't have the skill to make a box and make it not look cheesy....hahahaha....thats why I was asking if you knew anyone who does custom stuff....but I think i found what I am gonna do.....my buddy can get toyota parts for cost so I am just gonna do that cause it will look clean and I am get the parts for cost so it really won't cost that much either......thanks for your help, I appreciate it.
 
I bought a factory sub from a guy who wanted to upgrade. I think I paid around $300 for it, and they used to sell on e-bay for around $350-400 but I haven't checked recently. It was more involved then I originally expected, but it was very doable. Here's a list of parts we had to swap:

. Sub switch for blank console insert
. cubby hole cover and insert removed from my rig and put into the hole were sub used to be in his
. side panel tie down knobs and screws removed from mine and put into his.
. sub, enclosure, cover and screws removed from his and put in mine
. panel bellow sub swapped - sub uses a half pannel, and no-sub requires full coverage pannel

Other then that all the wiring was there, so it was pretty much plug and play in that respect.
 
I bought a factory sub from a guy who wanted to upgrade. I think I paid around $300 for it, and they used to sell on e-bay for around $350-400 but I haven't checked recently. It was more involved then I originally expected, but it was very doable. Here's a list of parts we had to swap:

. Sub switch for blank console insert
. cubby hole cover and insert removed from my rig and put into the hole were sub used to be in his
. side panel tie down knobs and screws removed from mine and put into his.
. sub, enclosure, cover and screws removed from his and put in mine
. panel bellow sub swapped - sub uses a half pannel, and no-sub requires full coverage pannel

Other then that all the wiring was there, so it was pretty much plug and play in that respect.

I think that is actually what I am gonna end up doing because I think its the best bang for the buck and it looks clean and it installs easy. The only other "custom boxes" I could find are like $500-$600 and I already have a JL 10" so the factory sub seems the best option to me. My buddy can only get like 25% off so its still way too expensive to buy from the dealer even at cost. How hard was it to install the switch? Was the wiring already there or what?
 
The hardest part of installing the switch is getting the blank filler out of the switch console without scratching up the console. Other then that, like I said before, all the wiring is there so it's pretty much plug and play.

If you're going to fit an aftermarket speaker into it, as gnob said, you really don't need the switch as you'll need to run your own power anyway. The only reason for the switch is if you want to turn the sub on and off.
 
The hardest part of installing the switch is getting the blank filler out of the switch console without scratching up the console. Other then that, like I said before, all the wiring is there so it's pretty much plug and play.

If you're going to fit an aftermarket speaker into it, as gnob said, you really don't need the switch as you'll need to run your own power anyway. The only reason for the switch is if you want to turn the sub on and off.


not to be rude dude but it sounds like you dont know what the hell.

i still cant figure out why toyota wired the truck like they did.
they have a 12v battery source, a remote source, and another source from that sub switch at the back where the sub goes.

as long as you keep the sub under the 200 watt 20 A limit there is no reason to run new wires.

use the 12v batt and the remote wire, there is no need to use that sub control wire, unless of course you are gay and think its neessary to shut off part of your stereo system.
 
No need to call names "dude".

Good luck finding a decent amp that's under 200 watts that will work well for todays sub woofers.

Either-way, you'll be much better off running new wires for an aftermarket amp.

Also, some of us like being able to turn off the sub when we're going to pick up our grandmother from the airport, or if we're listing to a talk radio, etc.
 
like i said no issues.

the truck is wired for 200 watts because that is the level of the rest of the audio system.
as far as i know 200 watts is 200 watts

there is no yesterday and today.

this is the same arguement i have with the wife, the system needs to play together, i hate the sub overpowering the rest of the system, (insert racial slur here)

and i shut it off when my grandma is in the car, and talk radio is for sissies. :flipoff2:

if i wanted to listen to some a****** talking about dick for hours i would stand in line at walmart.
 
Gnob you are right on!! and thanks for the link to the wiring diagram, And just tell Grandma to turn off her hearing aids till she gets home :flipoff2:
 
Yesterday it was easy to find a good quality amp that put out less then 200 watts.
Today that's a bit harder to do, and I still stand by my statement that you'll still be better off running new wires for an after market "anything" regardless.

Also, any good stereo system has the ability to be tuned to the type of music (or non-music) that you are listening too. That includes turning off the base.

P.S. Learn some respect for the elderly and everyone else for that matter. Name calling just makes you look stupid.
 
I swapped the factory speaker for a Kicker, it is a dual coil 2 ohm speaker, that is if you wish to swap just the speaker. It did improve the sound, clearer and lower, but if you plan on slamming a speaker in there and adding some real power with an aftermarket amp, forget it, the box vibrates because it is like 8 pieces of plastic and there is no way to get it to stop.

I've seen bazooka tubes installed with strapping at the stock speaker location using the factory wiring harness that is there in the fender, works great and is far superior in sound to the factory enclosure. They are $80 at Walmart, probably can find a better deal on the net. But the coolest part is that the wiring required for the Bazooka is exactly what is at the stock harness.
 
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Yesterday it was easy to find a good quality amp that put out less then 200 watts.
Today that's a bit harder to do, and I still stand by my statement that you'll still be better off running new wires for an after market "anything" regardless.

Also, any good stereo system has the ability to be tuned to the type of music (or non-music) that you are listening too. That includes turning off the base.

P.S. Learn some respect for the elderly and everyone else for that matter. Name calling just makes you look stupid.


hey pal, if you consider "dude" name calling then you are weak.
the only reason i even comented back to you is you are spewing wrong info into a thread, so if you had repect for people you would save you dribble for your bib, TOOL.
 
If you want to disagree with my opinion that's fine, but saying stuff like "you dont know what the hell" or "talk radio is for sissies" or "if i wanted to listen to some ******* talking about **** for hours i would stand in line at walmart" is just being disrespectful, and detracts from the purpose of the forum.
 
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