Any interest in an auxiliary AC condenser fan kit? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I wanted to tap the signal wire in to a fuse in the engine bay but didn't like how the cover would have to be cut to allow the wire to come out. Snaking the wire out of the fuse box through the bottom with all the other wires would have required cutting into the harness sheathe and is a very small, fiddly place to work. It was tough for me and I have baby hands; I couldn't imagine what a PITA it'd be for someone with big 'ole meat paws. Mine doesn't have a CDS circuit, either.

Part of the design criteria is to make this easy to install without any splicing, cutting, or grinding. The only permanent alteration to the truck that needs to be done is to poke a hole in one of the firewall grommets to run the signal wire through. For me, it seems easier to run a wire into the cabin and use a fuse tap on the IGN fuse. Or whichever fuse you want as long as it's switched.

I'm also not using the compressor clutch to turn the relay on because leaving the fan on constantly allows the condenser to recover between compressor on events.

It only took me a very lazy ten minutes to install the harness, and I'm guessing mounting the fan will take 15 minutes or less, so I'm expecting total install time to be under 30 minutes. All said and done, it's just seven fasteners including the bolt holding the relay, a power, two grounds, and a signal wire, and that's it.

Lastly... I'm waiting on the parts, but I'm going to integrate a thermal switch to turn the fan off when the ambient temp is below 60°F so it's not running all winter.
 
At least on my 96, there is no CDS circuit, but the empty relay and fuse were there and labeled on the fuse box. The box comes apart with a couple small clips when unbolted and there's enough room to sneak some wire loom in - wasn't bad even with my ham fists. I did pull the charcoal canister for extra room though.

I'm triggering the relay with the unused "medium pressure" switch as described in Sumotoy's thread. The one extra trick I'm working on setting up is running that circuit through a repurposed rear heater switch. If it works how it should, the middle position will be disabled (for water crossings or whatever), the low position will run in "auto" with the pressure switch - and the low light will come on when the fan kicks in, and the high position will be full ON (with high light). Of course, I need to relabel the switch so I don't get it mixed up with the rear heater!

I was kidding though. Like I said, I wouldn't try to make that work in kit form: you want to make it easy for people, and this really wouldn't be for most. I just appreciate that it looks more or less stock and I don't mind complicated wiring. Automotive is elementary when you've built tube powered guitar amps.

 
I saw your post in UTOR just after you'd already got someone for testing, I'm within a half hour and would definitely have been all over that. Following along closely!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top Bottom