Any aftermarket torque tubes out there?

[Hugh Heifer]

So I reinstalled my 4 speed today and discovered a problem.

When I pulled it I pulled it with the motor and tranny all as a unit. I put the motor back in and then replaced some seals in the tranny and put on Poser's t-case saver. I started to put the XMSN back in and it just would not go with the emergency brake drum in place due to the way the PO had cut and turned the torque bar so I took it back off and got the tranny back in. Well, the drum won't go due to clearance either. I can deal with that - I can tilt the motor, pull the tranny back a 1/2 inch and turn it so the emergency brake is a bit below the cross member or take it all out to put it back in, but...

I understand from reading MUD that once the torque tube has been cut, rotated and welded it really no longer serves any purpose other then another crossmember. I know some folks have completely removed theirs and others have replaced them with other cross members for their specific application.

Is there a prefabbed bolt in solution?

If not, I am interested in pics of bolt in solutions that others have built.

I like the idea of having something in the middle even if it no longer serve the anti-torque purpose.

 

[Degnol]

I had a similar problem trying to slip a 4 speed and Orion into my '66. I ended up taking the motor mounts off the bell housing and dropping the whole thing down on a hydraulic jack...slipped right in, jacked it up and re-bolted everything. Voila!

GL

Ed

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I had a similar problem trying to slip a 4 speed and Orion into my '66. I ended up taking the motor mounts off the bell housing and dropping the whole thing down on a hydraulic jack...slipped right in, jacked it up and re-bolted everything. Voila!

GL

Ed

Yep... know I can do that (and am in the process to get back on the road) but am thinking about making sure I have a rig I can make repairs on while traveling - ya know if I shear bolts on the emergency brake drum I would like to be able to just take the drum off and replace it, ya know...

 

[Degnol]

I know that some have cut the tube at the inside of the frame and rotated it back and rewelded it using a section of pipe to align it. Seems as though if the truck was sitting level when rewelded, it ought to function as before.

Ed

 

[amandap]

Copied here from PM, in case anyone else can benefit. Maybe more details than wanted or needed, but I figure it can't hurt none.


Sorry, I won't be able to get photos for a couple weeks. My Cruiser is on the other side of the state where I have a cabin and a great shop to work in.
Basically, after cutting out the old crossmember and grinding the inner surface smooth, I bent up a beefy tube (can't remember the specs) to closely match the original curves. I left the tailing ends kinda long at this point.
I drilled the holes about 1/2" to 5/8" at each corner of approx. 1/4" x 4" x height of the frame plates and clamped them to the frame where they would bolt on.
The tube was then fitted into place and tacked in, centering the curves a bit more to the passenger side for driveline clearance. That also made a bit more clearance for my exhaust pipe.
Note, the front and back frame width where your plates are going to bolt on is a bit wider at the rear as the frame tapers-it is not parrallel.
I suppose it would be somewhat stronger to drill through both sides of the frame but I didn't have a long enough drill bit. With that stock tube welded thru the frame right there, I think it will be fine. For serious crawling and such I would take the time to cross drill and weld in support tubes for the bolts to slide through. Use good grade 5 or 8 bolts with nylocks. I prefer the nylocks and a flat washer on both sides as it's easier than fishing around with extra lock washers. Some people have written that the grade 5 bolts are more flexible that 8's and might be best for this application. I don't know, I think I could only find 8's in that size where I am.
Hope this helps you out. Let me know if you want photos...remind me!

 

[rusty_tlc]

I moved mine back because I installed a Toy box, since the frame opens out as you move back the old one was to short. What I did was ttake the old one to a fab shop and ask them to bend one up out of .062 DOM but a bit longer in the straight sections. I cut it to fit and welded it in place
You can kind of see it behind the anti-wrap bar in this picture.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Thanks for the responses. I like amandap's idea of drilling and then welding sleeves in the frame then thru bolting like you do with the Saginaw PS brackets. I guess if you go to the trouble of moving it you might as well weld it in though. Lookin' forward to a couple pics of that if you get a chance.

 

[Pinion]

I just cut up some box 2x2 I had laying around so it looks like this (essentially):

/'''''''\

The angles are obviously different since the tcase output is offset.

Welded flanges on the end with 1 hole in each corner. Drilled through the frame and bolted in with some stainless bolts. I didnt want to weld it on, and now I dont have to redo any work if I choose to install a 350 later down the road.