I have about three and half in. to the tank.. thats why I stopped with the upper bar where I did ,to give me a few more inches of travel, but you have me thinking that i should gusset the top bar to the end of the lower bar. It can be done without losing any clearance .
I have a Rockbox in my late model 40 which required the removal of the crossmember and leaves no space between the back of the t-case and the tank. My best option, while retaining the factory tank, was to put it on the passenger side of the diff.
I really don't have anything to compare it to as this is my first wheeler, but I just spent 5 days in Moab and I didn't have any issues with clearance or performance that I could tell
Interesting thread.
I really like the box section bar work. Well done.
With my setup. Tubing was used. But as pictured. It lasted a year before i broke it. This was the second time it had broken. Both in different places. So this time I went all out and had to laser cut steel plates welded and boxed to the original bars. It's in now.
I'll be doing a few comps with it before the year is out. But it's a daily driver. Both times it failed was road use.
During our desert racing days we discovered that every time you accelerate you are actually trying to do a wheelie, so the front end of the traction bar wants to tear out the front mount/crossmember. More of an issue than tearing up the traction bar was tearing out the front mount/crossmember. We had to box-in the front crossmembers with additional tubing (angulation). Soooo, now it's interesting to see traction bars made with front shackles, seems like they would float too much (or have durability issues), allowing some rear end wrap-up?????
