anti-seize on cone washers?

[yooper]

I've gotten into the habit of putting anti-seize on every bolt and nut that I put back on my Cruisers. It has made a big difference already in just a few years here in the rust belt.

Should I put anti-seize on the cone washers for the knuckle and hub studs? They aren't a place that typically rusts up. The studs themselves will be treated. I'm also putting some on the shaft of the steering arm that goes into the knuckle bearing.

 

[tucker74]

Whoa boy - those are some bolts you want to stay on (whole point of the cone washers). I don't know if I'd want to grease them to much Maybe a little rust inhibiting paint after you get them torqued would work better?

Tucker

 

[3_puppies]

I always thought torque specs were on dry threads

 

[cruiser_guy]

I've ALWAYS used Antiseize on those studs and cone washers especially and on the advice of the local Toyota dealer! Even with antiseize the cone washers aren't the easiest to remove.

 

[beanz2]

I swear by antiseize on my cone washers, both on the studs and the tapered surface.

Dave

 

[John Smith]

Yet another who antisiezes the hell out of those cone washers. Trust me, even with the AS on there they will still fight you when removing them. It makes removal much better than when they are frozen with rust since you did not As them.

 

[Mace]

AS them..

 

[Poser]

I have only ever put anti-seeze on the cone washer where it meets the housing and not a whole lot of it. I do not think that a little on the cone to the housing would be that big of a deal, but I use red locktite on the nuts and studs, both into the housing and to hold the steering arm on everytime.


I LOVE RED LOCKTITE!!!!

 

[yooper]

Thanks guys. I red locktited the studs into the knuckle, but didn't think about using it on the nuts - good idea, I think I'll do that.

I have been told by people who should know that anti-seize does not mess up torque settings.

Off to AS my CW's...

 

[beanz2]

Locktite to knuckle studs

I can see the logic in keeping knuckle studs tight, but when they loosen up, isn't because the studs have stretched a little and not because they've turned in the hole?

Dave

 

[CruisinGA]

Dave- my understanding is that if they loosen up from stretching, they will then have an easier time turning in the hole from vibration, etc.

So they may loosen some from stretching, but with Red LT, they won't loosen anymore than a little.

 

[yooper]

The argument I've heard against red locktite on the studs, from very knowledgeable people, is that if you do break one then it's harder to get the remnant out. Equally experienced people point out that they really only break when they get loose, and they are less likely to get loose if you use the red locktite. So the expert consensus is a wash.

Bailey, your package delivery was expected today according to UPS...

 

[yooper]

Forgot to add, I just got back in from the garage, and I antiseized everything, including the knuckle nuts, because after antiseizing the cone washers and the steering arms there was antiseize everywhere, and red locktite doesn't work if there is any grease in the threads. I guess if you were really careful you could put antiseize just in the cone washer holes in the steering arm and not get any on the stud threads, but that's more like Fiat maintenance than Land Cruiser.

 

[CruisinGA]

Sean- got it!

I'd forgotten it was an SST, when I saw the Toyota parts box I thought " WTF I didn't order any crap from Dan- maybe it's a present "

Sure appreciate it. Starting the job tomorrow, will have it done by the end of next week, and send it back up.

 

[Poser]

Sean-



Is this a hy-steer set up?


Check these often..



Good luck!


-Steve

 

[yooper]

Yep,

Installing Marlin Crawler Hy Steer on my '76 FJ55 because the welded double arm that was on there was breaking knuckle studs - it was creating all sorts of weird torque stress and was about to break itself. Also upgraded to FJ60 knuckles, the new fancy studs with the Torx heads, and 4Runner calipers. Probably do an FJ80 master cylinder to keep up with those calipers too.

I'll be checking the torque on these almost every time I drive it for a while....

Here's a pic of the new steering arm impacting the shock. I cut off and rewelded the shock mounts about 1" more inboard last night. No after pic 'cause I'm embarassed to show anyone my ugly welds. I think they are strong, though. I beat on one with a big hammer for a while and it didn't budge.