Anti Seize in Brake parts

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Just some interesting reading on the subject of brake fluid...see paragraph #5 Brake system contamination

Battle of the DOTs
DOT 3-4 Verses DOT 5. Which brake fluid should I use?
From Oak Okleshen #35 "With regards to the DOT 3-4 verses DOT 5 brake fluid controversy, here is an article sent to me by Mr. Steve Wall. It is one of the most professional treatments I have seen on the subject".

[I had to condense this article from 6 pages to 1 due to space limitations -ed]

Brake Fluid Facts
by Steve Wall

As a former materials engineering supervisor at a major automotive brake system supplier, I feel both qualified and obligated to inject some material science facts into the murky debate about DOT 5 verses DOT 3-4 brake fluids. The important technical issues governing the use of a particular specification brake fluid are as follows:

Fluid compatibility with the brake system rubber, plastic and metal components.
Water absorption and corrosion.
Fluid boiling point and other physical characteristics.
Brake system contamination and sludging.
Additionally, some technical comments will be made about the new brake fluid formulations appearing on the scene.

First of all, it's important to understand the chemical nature of brake fluid. DOT 3 brake fluids are mixtures of glycols and glycol ethers. DOT 4 contains borate esters in addition to what is contained in DOT 3. These brake fluids are somewhat similar to automotive anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) and are not, as Dr. Curve implies, a petroleum fluid. DOT 5 is silicone chemistry.

Fluid Compatibility
Brake system materials must be compatible with the system fluid. Compatibility is determined by chemistry, and no amount of advertising, wishful thinking or rationalizing can change the science of chemical compatibility. Both DOT 3-4 and DOT 5 fluids are compatible with most brake system materials except in the case some silicone rubber external components such as caliper piston boots, which are attacked by silicon fluids and greases.

Water absorption and corrosion
The big bugaboo with DOT 3-4 fluids always cited by silicone fluid advocates is water absorption. DOT 3-4 glycol based fluids, just like ethylene glycol antifreezes, are readily miscible with water. Long term brake system water content tends to reach a maximum of about 3%, which is readily handled by the corrosion inhibitors in the brake fluid formulation. Since the inhibitors are gradually depleted as they do their job, glycol brake fluid, just like anti-freeze, needs to be changed periodically. Follow BMW's recommendations. DOT 5 fluids, not being water miscible, must rely on the silicone (with some corrosion inhibitors) as a barrier film to control corrosion. Water is not absorbed by silicone as in the case of DOT 3-4 fluids, and will remain as a separate globule sinking to the lowest point in the brake system, since it is more dense.

Fluid boiling point
DOT 4 glycol based fluid has a higher boiling point (446F) than DOT 3 (401F), and both fluids will exhibit a reduced boiling point as water content increases. DOT 5 in its pure state offers a higher boiling point (500F) however if water got into the system, and a big globule found its way into a caliper, the water would start to boil at 212F causing a vapor lock condition [possible brake failure -ed.]. By contrast, DOT 3 fluid with 3% water content would still exhibit a boiling point of 300F. Silicone fluids also exhibit a 3 times greater propensity to dissolve air and other gasses which can lead to a "spongy pedal" and reduced braking at high altitudes.

DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are mutually compatible, the major disadvantage of such a mix being a lowered boiling point. In an emergency, it'll do. Silicone fluid will not mix, but will float on top. From a lubricity standpoint, neither fluids are outstanding, though silicones will exhibit a more stable viscosity index in extreme temperatures, which is why the US Army likes silicone fluids. Since few of us ride at temperatures very much below freezing, let alone at 40 below zero, silicone's low temperature advantage won't be apparent. Neither fluids will reduce stopping distances.

With the advent of ABS systems, the limitations of existing brake fluids have been recognized and the brake fluid manufacturers have been working on formulations with enhanced properties. However, the chosen direction has not been silicone. The only major user of silicone is the US Army. It has recently asked the SAE about a procedure for converting from silicon back to DOT 3-4. If they ever decide to switch, silicone brake fluid will go the way of leaded gas.

>>>>Brake system contamination
The single most common brake system failure caused by a contaminant is swelling of the rubber components (piston seals etc.) due to the introduction of petroleum based products (motor oil, power steering fluid, mineral oil etc.) A small amount is enough to do major damage. Flushing with mineral spirits is enough to cause a complete system failure in a short time. I suspect this is what has happened when some BMW owners changed to DOT 5 (and then assumed that silicone caused the problem). Flushing with alcohol also causes problems. BMW brake systems should be flushed only with DOT 3 or 4.

If silicone is introduced into an older brake system, the silicone will latch unto the sludge generated by gradual component deterioration and create a gelatin like goop which will attract more crud and eventually plug up metering orifices or cause pistons to stick. If you have already changed to DOT 5, don't compound your initial mistake and change back. Silicone is very tenacious stuff and you will never get it all out of your system. Just change the fluid regularly. For those who race using silicone fluid, I recommend that you crack the bleed screws before each racing session to insure that there is no water in the calipers.

New developments
Since DOT 4 fluids were developed, it was recognized that borate ester based fluids offered the potential for boiling points beyond the 446F requirement, thus came the Super DOT 4 fluids - some covered by the DOT 5.1 designation - which exhibit a minimum dry boiling point of 500F (same as silicone, but different chemistry).

Additionally, a new fluid type based on silicon ester chemistry (not the same as silicon) has been developed that exhibits a minimum dry boiling point of 590F. It is miscible with DOT 3-4 fluids but has yet to see commercial usage.
 
That felt good. Now I can move forward. It's about time to pull the engine , trans and xfer from the 76 donor and get with the program. I'm getting sick of towing it in and out of the shop with the jeep whenever the weather is good. (like that's been happening a lot this spring).....and that 'horizontal blue' that's creeping up is my homemade mix of rustoleum . royal blue, flat white and flat black, with a dash of hunter green. Its a real good match, and I can brush some areas, spray the majority and it is a dull semigloss, hiding minor flaws and such. Gives it the oxidized Arizona look, but allows touch-ups and repairs..... and thanks for all the input, guys.
h bluedash.webp
hb sidevue.webp
 
Oh great! Hatchman just has to show up while I'm writing! The silcone grease attacks silicone rubber boots? I doubt these are silicone rubber. And if the grease I used is specifically made for disc brake pistons, it should be ok, huh?..........//// 5 minutes later. Went and got the graese they sold me at napa. i made a drwawing for the owner with the cups, pistons etc, just to make sure that it was ok in there.He said 'yes' on the steel pistons. I was glad to read that there wasnt any silicone in there, sweet. It's 'sta-lube brake caliper synthetic grease' made by crc.Called a synthetic grease. Has molybenum disulfide, teflon and graphite. oh wait! the last sentence in the directions after all the sliding parts in the disc brakes that it is so excellent on, says this. in bold print "DO NOT USE ON INTERNAL PISTON PARTS: USE BRAKE FLUID FOR INTERNAL PISTON ASSEMBLY". Hey, I read the uses etc. just never got all the way to the end of the directions.:bang::crybaby::whoops::mad: Well I'm off to a little league game then to Seattle tonight for Mariners vs Oakland. I guess I have a project for Sunday now......Damn, Im 54 and I've been making that same mistake since I was a kid!!! AAAAArrrrgggghhhhhh.
 
Get some rubber grease. Your parts store should sell it. Surprisingly, it's fine to use with rubber :)

Hijack ------
Where do you buy it from Andrew? I haven't been able to get that stuff for years.

:cheers:
 
.....Brake Fluid Facts by Steve Wall
.... some silicone rubber external components such as caliper piston boots, which are attacked by silicon fluids and greases. ...

I'd hate to argue with someone obviously much more qualified and experienced than me ----- but I was puzzled why Mr Wall used the word "external" here. I have personal experience of silicone BRAKE FLUID causing rubber INTERNAL piston seals to swell/deteriorate but I have never before heard of silicone products damaging "less delicate" rubber like the stuff used in "dust/dirt/water-excluding boots". (But I know petroleum-based products will damage both.)

Apart from this - His article is compatible with all the knowledge I've gained thus far in my years of tinkering and reading. (And it is certainly a good resource of information.)

:cheers:
 
Got a chance to stop at my napa store and talk to the people there.... they said this synthetic grease wont hurt the rubber components. The reason it says not to use it on internal pistons is because on a disc brake, the seal is at the top of the piston, and the steel piston is in the fluid, and the grease mixing with it will contaminate the fluid. In the case of our lc drum brakes, the piston is completely on the dry side of the cup, so I guess I have my answer. It should be fine like this. What I do know, is that in this climate and with the long muddy road I live on, those pistons tend to seize up in the bores if not lubricated with something....
 
CRC just called me back. They checked with their chemist on duty and confirmed that their product, SL3301 sta-lube brake caliper synthetic grease is compatible with brake rubber and will not react with it. Additionally, their product info website says it holds up very well to moisture , wont wash out and is for extremeley high temp. use. As long as it isn't used on the fluid side in a system it's an excellent application. Soooo, I'm good to go. Think I'll do some painting after work.
 
Rubber Grease

Was flicking through a 1974 service manual and noticed the lube instructions for the brakes. Red Rubber grease, also noticed the booster specified silicon grease in the internals. I will do a scan and put a couple pages up tomorrow.

Looks like Castrol still make it and in the UK I can get it from the MG owners club.

MGOC ACCESSORIES Grease
 
1974 - and I own a '75 & '76 - still little changed in that FSM, engine manual would be a different story.

Sort of undecided if I should cut it up and do a really good scan or just do a scan page by page the hard way. Quite a few of the manuals are appearing on web sites but I haven't seen that one yet - has nice frame dimensions, details for gearbox, brakes, clutch, winch, interior and wiring diagrams.

Just seen you have the 1971 issue uploaded on you web site, matter of interest how did you scan it?
 
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Mine is/was in such bad shape that the binding material allowed me to take it apart and scan each page individually! Then I punched holes in the pages to allow putting them into a binder.

At the time I did this, I had no idea you could still buy the manuals new! I must have put 20-30 hours of time into scanning, then cleaning up EVERY page in a graphics program! :rolleyes: Live and learn... :D
 
Island45, this has turned into an excellent reference thread for the subject matter. I am hoping you don't mind me piggy backing my thread here since there is some relevance between my thread and yours. Good JOB guys. I'm bookmarking this thread for future reference, Thanks.

Synthetic oil based dot 3-4 brake fluid in a stock brake system 1974 fj55.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/224438-synthetic-brake-fluid-question.html

Guess I don't want to see your thread sink into oblivion, Island.
 
I am honored, thanks.
 
CRC just called me back. They checked with their chemist on duty and confirmed that their product, SL3301 sta-lube brake caliper synthetic grease is compatible with brake rubber and will not react with it. Additionally, their product info website says it holds up very well to moisture , wont wash out and is for extremeley high temp. use. As long as it isn't used on the fluid side in a system it's an excellent application. Soooo, I'm good to go. Think I'll do some painting after work.

Well, better late than never. Here is a product that I picked up at Advanced Auto.

AGS Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricate
Sil-Glyde
MSDS Sheet
Silicone based grease that is compatible with rubber. (Contains Castor Oil also)

Advanced auto carries it in small packets with enough lube to do one axle.
Sil-glyde.webp
 
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