Anti-Seize for wheel lugs

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Apr 3, 2006
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I'm thinking about putting little dab of anti-seize on the threads before torqueing up my wheel lugs - any recommendations on a good brand?
 
I would not recommend antiseize for wheel studs, engine oil works better. Sounds silly but I have seen many studs broken off from overtorquing when coated with antiseize. Lexus puts a little bit of antiseize on them from the factory and have seen numerous studs broken when hand torqued. Impact torqued they are fine or if you clean off the studs then hand torquing works fine. It is almost like the stud is too slippery with antiseize. I think Roger Brown did a write up on this on his website, somebody did. They had access to test all the fluids oil,antiseize in a controlled/measurable setting and engine oil worked the best.
my .02

ben
 
jkelly65 said:
I'm thinking about putting little dab of anti-seize on the threads before torqueing up my wheel lugs - any recommendations on a good brand?

Have you had problems with corrosion on the threads?

Anything other than dry threads, and you are moving into uncharted territory with the required assembly torque.

I've used WD40 in the past with some Big Three marque vehicles wheel lug studs, but no more. (I don't own their vehicles anymore, won't anymore...)

So far, my LX470 has no problems with corrosion on the lug studs/nuts, at 94k+. Toyota (and Honda, Nissan, etc. marques) use good materials and platings for these and like applications, and they rarely corrode or gall, in my experience.
 
Like above the torque specs are for clean dry threads. My '99 came from the rustbelt with 69K on it and I don't have any corrosion issue with the wheel studs. Also I would think there needs to be a certain coefficient of friction on the wheel nut/stud to ensure they stay tight...?
 
LEXUSBEN said:
I would not recommend antiseize for wheel studs, engine oil works better. Sounds silly but I have seen many studs broken off from overtorquing when coated with antiseize. Lexus puts a little bit of antiseize on them from the factory and have seen numerous studs broken when hand torqued. Impact torqued they are fine or if you clean off the studs then hand torquing works fine. It is almost like the stud is too slippery with antiseize. I think Roger Brown did a write up on this on his website, somebody did. They had access to test all the fluids oil,antiseize in a controlled/measurable setting and engine oil worked the best.
my .02

ben

I know this isn't about lug nuts but I thought it is interesting. I had just read on the DENSO web-site about installing new spark plugs. It says:

"Note: The installation torque values shown above apply to new spark plugs without lubricating the threads. If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximately 1/2 to avoid over-tightening."

I would not reduce the torque value of the lug nuts but I'll be more careful about not over torquing them when I use oil.
 
I was just starting to reading up on this...

My lug nuts feel like I am rubing 2 bricks together when I remove them. It's a very gritty feeling... almost like sand is in there.

I found this web site: http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html

Does it make sense to anyone?

How can lubricating the threads cause added stress?

I would like to somehow clean the threads and put a drop of 5W-30 on there.
 
There should be no need for any lubrication as previously stated. A good way to clean any nut with a blind thread is to use a cleaner thats evaporative like petrol give it a quick wash and blow it out with compressed air. The petrol should act as a carrier for any dirt or sand in there and when you use the air it should all come out.

For your wheel studs just do the same but use a rag.

You dont oil threads which are specified for dry fastening applications cause it allows you to over tighten. If its specified for a dry application the stud or nut will have a plating on the male or female thread or a required surface finish for friction when torqued correctly.
 
Thanks !!!

Just to confirm, do you mean use unleaded gasoline to clean the wheel studs ?
 
I never use any thing except a brass brush on the studs. Mike
 
I was rebuilding 50ltr engine a few years ago, the mechanic I was working with put anti seize on the main bearing bolts and stripped the thread in the cylinder block after getting the engineering team to investigate it was found that the bolts were over tightened due to the anti seize reducing the friction. So in short a quick clean as stated above.
 
There is no problem with putting it on the threads. Just back off your torque values about 10%. Do not put the anti-seize on the friction surface of the lug nut. It will result in severe over-tightening based on some testing I did two years ago.

It's been done on the threads for years with no ill effects.

Adam
 
I'm using it. Just be conservative, that stuff has a way of going places...
 

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