Another Tires question?! (2 Viewers)

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Also, I don't recall anyone asking, but why does a couple of pounds ± matter? People are more often concerned about adding weight to the overall weight of the vehicle, not just the rims and tires. Which is why I kind of wish I went with aluminum bumpers. But at the time I built my rig, no one was making them. I at least had the presence of mind to get a winch with synthetic line and not wire cable!
I think any weight that we can lose is good, so go for it! I previously had a couple of motorcycles and weight is even more important on a vehicle that light. I dropped some rotational weight on my street bike by swapping wheels and it was an amazing difference. Way more of a difference than when I'd put panniers on the bike. So I'm applying that to this vehicle as well.

I'm just getting started on my GX and working to keep it light when I can. It's going to get heavier for sure but I'd like to limit it as much as makes sense for me on my budget and use case. My new wheel setup will be heavier but 6lbs. vs 15lbs. is a massive difference in rotational weight.
 
Maybe I'd misinterpreted a question earlier haha.

The short answer is that unsprung weight, especially rotational, is the best weight you can get rid of. In the track car world, a pound of weight you can remove from the wheels/tires is worth 5 pounds off the actual car. Less energy is expended rotating the wheels before you start moving, the suspension can do a better job of controlling of the wheels, etc.

Weight off your winch line and bumpers is great, because it's off the extreme ends of the vehicle, but the wheels/tires are the best place to start if you can afford to.
Yup and I knew/understand about the whole unsprung rotational weight thing, and think I mentioned it above (or maybe another thread??). But generally, and I'll have to qualify this comment to myself, but my off roading is usually slow and cruising, taking in the scenery. I don't "pre-run" and blast down washboard roads, I'm slow going over rock gardens (the bigger, the slower ;)). So in general, unsprung weight matters little to me (within reason) because I rarely am ever driving so fast in uneven conditions that my wheels are skipping and losing road contact.
But that's just me. I know some people out there love pretending they're in the Baja 500/1000 or Paris to Dakar and blast down washboard roads at full speed.
 
Maybe I'd misinterpreted a question earlier haha.

The short answer is that unsprung weight, especially rotational, is the best weight you can get rid of. In the track car world, a pound of weight you can remove from the wheels/tires is worth 5 pounds off the actual car. Less energy is expended rotating the wheels before you start moving, the suspension can do a better job of controlling of the wheels, etc.

Weight off your winch line and bumpers is great, because it's off the extreme ends of the vehicle, but the wheels/tires are the best place to start if you can afford to.
Using that logic, tire weight is more important than wheel weight because of moments of inertia and angular momentum? I am in my forties and it's been a long time since physics classes.

My point is if you are running a tire over 50 lbs, 2-3 lbs on the wheel won't make a huge difference. If you are running something super light, tire wise, then you may be able to
Appreciate that difference.
 
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One more point also is getting too light a tire might compromise wall and tread thickness and quality thus more prone to a puncture or tear.
Personally I'd rather carry a few extra pounds than be stuck in the middle of know where with a shredded tire.
Actually I do carry a LOT of extra weight with all my trail mechanic's tools and recovery gear. Just don't ever want to be that guy they find months later in the middle of nowhere as a skeleton in his rig because he wasn't prepared.
 
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One more point also is getting too light a tire might compromise wall and tread thickness and quality thus more prone to a puncture or tear.
Personally I'd rather carry a few extra pounds than be stuck in the middle of know where with a shredded tire.
Actually I do carry a LOT of extra weight with all my trail mechanic's tools and recovery gear. Just don't ever want to be that guy they find months later in the middle of know where as a skeleton in his rig because he wasn't prepared.
Which is totally valid. Everything is a compromise, just have to find the balance that works for the application.
 
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I went with a 275/70/17 E rated Nokian Outpost AT. To be honest I think these are better riding and quieter than my previous P metric Toyo Open Country AT3 265/65/18.

I removed the stock hitch and put a 4Runner hitch and was able to fit the full sized spare underneath with a tiny bit of clearance to the sway. I put some KDSS spacers and there is no issue clearing at all.
 
I went with a 275/70/17 E rated Nokian Outpost AT. To be honest I think these are better riding and quieter than my previous P metric Toyo Open Country AT3 265/65/18.
Noise is usually related to tread pattern not sidewall stiffness, so I'd assume your quieter Nokian Outpost just has a better designed tread pattern to reduce noise.
Generally the larger the "lug" the noisier a tire will be. The lugs and spacing on the tire spinning around is what causes a harmonic roaring sound. That's why M/T's are always noisier than A/T's. And even A/T's more than street tires. The way manufacturers work around this is by making lugs different sizes and spacing around the tire. If you have off road tires, go out to your rig and look at the lug size on the outside edge of your tires. You will see the lugs are NOT all the same size, but vary in size and spacing, they do this in no particular pattern. This disrupts wind from creating the harmonic sound and provides a quieter ride.
 
It's been a long time coming but last week I finally got the new tires and wheels installed. I thought I'd come back to this old thread and provide an update.
I decided to also get a full Dobinsons IMS lift kit installed at the same timel. Still rides great...maybe even a little better than stock. For the tires I went with Toyo AT3s at 285/70r17. They were larger than K02s and lighter than Wildpeak AT4s so that was my compromise. I also went with a C rated tire. So far so good! Thanks for all the advice along the way.
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Please let us know how you like them. I have really been impressed with my Revo 3s which are glorified all seasons.


I cupped a pair of MTs and had a come to Jesus moment and got a more appropriate tire.
 
It's been a long time coming but last week I finally got the new tires and wheels installed. I thought I'd come back to this old thread and provide an update.
I decided to also get a full Dobinsons IMS lift kit installed at the same timel. Still rides great...maybe even a little better than stock. For the tires I went with Toyo AT3s at 285/70r17. They were larger than K02s and lighter than Wildpeak AT4s so that was my compromise. I also went with a C rated tire. So far so good! Thanks for all the advice along the way. View attachment 3613545
Looking good! My IMS suspension and Toyo AT3 have been awesome here in the rainy south. Were amazing in the one significant snow we had since I’ve had them. I’m sure they’re not quite as unstoppable now at approximately half tread, but when new they were spectacular. Have had this setup for almost 40k miles. Toyo still going strong probably still over 10/32” left! Still good in the rain, not very noisy.
 
Looking good! My IMS suspension and Toyo AT3 have been awesome here in the rainy south. Were amazing in the one significant snow we had since I’ve had them. I’m sure they’re not quite as unstoppable now at approximately half tread, but when new they were spectacular. Have had this setup for almost 40k miles. Toyo still going strong probably still over 10/32” left! Still good in the rain, not very noisy.
That's great to hear! I'm looking forward to testing them out in the mountains the first week of May.
 
It's been a long time coming but last week I finally got the new tires and wheels installed. I thought I'd come back to this old thread and provide an update.
I decided to also get a full Dobinsons IMS lift kit installed at the same timel. Still rides great...maybe even a little better than stock. For the tires I went with Toyo AT3s at 285/70r17. They were larger than K02s and lighter than Wildpeak AT4s so that was my compromise. I also went with a C rated tire. So far so good! Thanks for all the advice along the way. View attachment 3613545
Good tire choice. Nothing but good things to say about the Toyos here.
 

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