Another productive oil change - my 62 needs Depends

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grrlscout89FJ62

grrlscout89FJ62

Joined
Aug 13, 2004
Threads
73
Messages
813
Location
Hell City, AZ
Website
www.cafepress.com
Yesterday I brought the 62 in for an oil change. Last time I did this, I spent $500 on brakes. This time, they basically told me my Cruiser is leaky. DUH.:rolleyes:

Usually I have a 2-3 drops underneath, every time I park. If you look down below, the whole undercarriage is glossy and a tad drippy.

It leaks enough so that next time it's due for an oil change, I'm down a 1/2qt-1qt. And I have to refill the coolant every 2-3 months. In the summer, it's about every month. Power steering fluid goes in whenever I get the "groan" - about every 3 months.

But they were kind enough (and I'm sure, prospecting for future business $$$) to tell me what exactly is leaking. So I'm wondering which of these leaks are a major concern (if any), or require further investigation, or that I can safely pursue the refill-as-needed tactic until I get a financial windfall?

- valve cover gasket
- oil pan gasket
- oil sender
- timing chain cover
- power steering pump
- lower radiator tank

Performance-wise, I am starting to see a few minor issues. Mostly, loss of power on the uphills (I have to downshift if I'm going too slow), and a single revv when it's cold out.

Thankeeeee! :cheers:
 
Clean the oil and dirt off the engine underneath, and find out where it is really leaking from....as oil will blow all over the place when the truck is rolling down the road, and make it look worse than it really is....


I know people with the earlier 40 series that have replaced oil pan gaskets and lifter/pushrod cover gaskets multiple times thinking that they were leaking, only to find out that the oil was comming from a poor seal of the rocker cover, and the oil was leaking down the backside of the engine......


Good luck!


-Steve
 
you ought to be able to fix most of those by yourself. (But if you are taking it somewhere to get the oil changed then maybe not)

AGree with pose as well. it may be a rear main. Get under there and look for yourself and see what it is. If you need help, take pics and post them up.
 
AS far as priorities go: I'd fix the radiator ASAP as it can get much worse very quickly if it gets hot (or if you ignore it/forget it, then it gets hot, then splits open). If it fails you can overheat, which can do damage.

The oil leaks, you should fix, but aren't as likely to create an emergency situation as a leaky oil pan gasket isn't likely to suddenly explode.

The oil pan is a PITA. It was one of the first project I did on my cruiser. Not complex, but definately a lot of work. Do a search and you'll find the exact directions. Plan to take a long day or two shorter days to complete the task if you don't know what you are doing.

The power steering pump might also be worth attending to sooner than later. On an fj60 the power steering pump is right over the air-pump. Not sure if this is the case on a 62. If so, the dripping power steering fluid can foul and destroy the very expensive air pump. Easier/better to fix the pwr steering than to fix both. Napa has rebuilt power steering pumps for about $100 if I recall correctly. Be sure to replace the cap on the pump reservoir as well as that gasket is sometimes the source of the leak. Replacing the pump is probably a :banana: :banana: job. Not very difficult, but certainly harder than an oil change.... the factory service manual has instructions. I would replace the high-pressure line at the same time as you'll have it off anyway...

The valve cover leak should also be really easy to fix. You'll want a torque wrench to re-install the valve cover correctly, but beyond that it is a pretty simple take the cover off, clean off old gasket, install new gasket, put back together. An alternative is to take the truck in to get the valves adjusted, they should replace the gasket when they put the cover back on. It'll cost you more, but at least you get a little bit of a tuneup at the same time.

Good luck :cheers:
 
Fixing this without doing the work yourself will get expensive fast. You can do all the cover gaskets and oil pan gasket yourfelf. That might do it. If it's a rear main, take it to a good mechanic, as it's a big job. To clean it off, spray it down with sinple green or similar, then wash it off with a pressure washer. It took me over 2 years to chase down and fix all the leaks in my FJ60. The last final drip was the input seal on the tranny, so I used that as an excuse to get the 5 speed which came with a new seal.:D
 
What Sandcruiser said: Radiator and P/S pump...IF they're REALLY leaking. Consider a new radiator if yours is the original and it's had tap water put in it for 10+ years. Oil pan, Timing cover may just need the bolts snugged up. You know how those mechanics love to replace things that could have been fixed by a small adjustment or tightening. Valve cover: can't hurt to put a new gasket in; a relatively easy and inexpensive job.
 
Thanks y'all! I'm printing out this thread and adding it to my "to do" folder.

I had plans to tackle the radiator (drain it, flush it, replace the lower hose, add stop leak, and refill it). But I spent all weekend spreading 3 tons of rock instead! Owwie I hurt.

Then I'll have a look-see at the PS pump.
 
I agree with all the above and identify with the oil leaks - thought it was a LC trait...

I just got my 62 back from the shop. Too much to do and too little time right now. Had a brake pad fall off the backing plate but that's another issue. Had them weld my muffler bracket which was broken and while they had it up they pointed out my oil sending unit which was a very obvious leaker. Paid $100 for a new one installed, yikes!

These little things add up quickly. I know I have to do the oil pan too and the shop charges $300. They're great mechanics but that's something I'll do.

If it's the rear main - let it leak ;)
 
If the P/S leak is from the cap area pull the cap gasket and turn it over. Hey, it's a free fix. Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak works really well too, if you are into bottled "stop leak" fixes. Ain't free but it's cheap. By the way, you should be adding ATF NOT power steering fluid to the system. One quart of engine oil per 3,000 miles isn't so bad. As was mentioned, the cooling system leaks are to be taken seriously but one of the coolant system stop leak additives might be worth a try too. I'm all for tearing things down and repairing properly but sometimes trying the simple, easy and $$ cheap fixes is worth a try. If you were in the Denver area, I'd be happy to give your truck a looksee but you are in the Sedona area, no?
 
The valve cover gasket on a 2F is a easy fix, that's not the case with the 3FE. The air cleaner is on the passinger's side and the intake runs across the top of the valve cover. On the 2F you pull the air cleaner housing off and the valve cover is exposed. I have what sounds like a noisey lifer, I should be able to adjust the rocker arm to make sure it not a rod bearing. But it was alot easier to replace the rod bearings than adjust the rockers. The dealer wants big bucks to adjust the valve clearance on the FJ62. I love the old F engines you might have to move the hose from the PCV to get the valve cover off but that's about it. I've never priced for having anything done on my old cruiser because I've always done it myself but it seems they should be cheaper to work on because they are so simple. If your moving to the valley you might consider selling the FJ62 and getting a 66 or earlier FJ40 that's pre emission. Then get something with better gas mileage for around town. My 89 only failed emission once. I checked the codes and replaced a sensor and it passed but if your not doing the work yourself the costs can go up quickly. You might even want to sell it in Rottenwood so you don't have emission issues unless you know it will pass emissions.

John
 
overhanger said:
you should be adding ATF NOT power steering fluid to the system.
Click to expand...

What?? Really??? I have been adding power steering fluid!

overhanger said:
If you were in the Denver area, I'd be happy to give your truck a looksee but you are in the Sedona area, no?
Click to expand...

Thanks, but darnit. Yeah, I'm in Cottonwood, about 15 miles sw of Sedona ... at least for now. Probably moving down to Phoenix in the late Spring.
 
Living in the Past said:
You might even want to sell it in Rottenwood so you don't have emission issues unless you know it will pass emissions.
Click to expand...

I bought my 62 from a guy in Phoenix. He and the Carfax both told me that it failed emissions twice, and he had to do some fiddling to get it to pass. Hopefully his "adjustments" are still in place. :)
 
It takes about five minutes, tops, to remove the top of the air cleaner box and the hoses to the intake manifold on a 3FE. Then remove the two bolts that hold the throttle cable wheel to the throttle body for extra clearance. From there on, replacing the valve cover gasket is as simple to do as it is on any other F engine. Setting the valves and putting it all back together takes about a half an hour to an hour depending on how quickly you work and how finicky you are. Dealers want big $$ to do anything!!

Living in the Past said:
The valve cover gasket on a 2F is a easy fix, that's not the case with the 3FE. The air cleaner is on the passinger's side and the intake runs across the top of the valve cover. On the 2F you pull the air cleaner housing off and the valve cover is exposed. I have what sounds like a noisey lifer, I should be able to adjust the rocker arm to make sure it not a rod bearing. But it was alot easier to replace the rod bearings than adjust the rockers. The dealer wants big bucks to adjust the valve clearance on the FJ62. I love the old F engines you might have to move the hose from the PCV to get the valve cover off but that's about it. I've never priced for having anything done on my old cruiser because I've always done it myself but it seems they should be cheaper to work on because they are so simple. If your moving to the valley you might consider selling the FJ62 and getting a 66 or earlier FJ40 that's pre emission. Then get something with better gas mileage for around town. My 89 only failed emission once. I checked the codes and replaced a sensor and it passed but if your not doing the work yourself the costs can go up quickly. You might even want to sell it in Rottenwood so you don't have emission issues unless you know it will pass emissions.

John
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Steve (overhanger) I'll have to try that. One of my bigest fears is the rubber hoses cracking. The up side of living in Az is no rust, the down side is everything rubber/plastic cracks sooner here. I really changed the rod bearing at 100K just because I got burned as a kid on my first cruiser. I thought I have lifter noise, turned out to be rod caps were installed with out the cotter pins on the castle nuts. The old rod bearings on the FJ62 measured in as new spec with a 100K on them, alot better than the old F engines with oiling problems. So Steve since you seem to know more about repairing the FJ62 than I do what's the easiest way to seal oil leaks in the transfer case. I bought this in 1993 with 51K on it. I replaced all the fluids right away and found the transfer case had ATF in it which I changed right away. I never had any problems except for the oil leak on the top somewhere. Over the years the leak has gotten worst. I've tightened all the bolts that hold the two pieces together that helped a little. Is there a way to drop the back of the engine down and replace the gaskets in the vehicle or do you really need to remove the transmission transfer? In which case I might just trade out the transmission/transfer for for another one I have with just over 30K on it. The one I have now works fine other than the leak. It has just over 120K on it.

Thanks John
 
John,
The '89 62 that I recently gave to my nephew came from AZ and had 250k on the ticker so I know what you have to deal with in the way of dried out rubber. Carefully remove the small hoses that connect to the main hose going to the throttle body and the AFM connector and loosen the clamp at the throttle body. That way you can remove the entire air cleaner lid and hoses as one unit. Makes it easier to put back together too.
As for the transfer case questions, I defer to others that are more in the know than I. There are some very experienced T/C listers on the 3FE list that could help you.
Sorry for the hijack GS. Sounds like you need to add a power steering system flush and ATF refill to your list of things to do. :(
 
overhanger said:
Sorry for the hijack GS. Sounds like you need to add a power steering system flush and ATF refill to your list of things to do. :(
Click to expand...

No probs. :)

OK, another dumb question ... is it bad for the PS fluid and ATF to mix? Cuz ... theoretically, if it keeps leaking out slowly, and I keep putting in ATF, it'll eventually all be ATF, right?

And just to satisfy my curiosity, why should it be ATF? :confused:
 
In all seriousness, you need to hook up with some Cruiserhead that can help you with some of your minor maintenance issues without having to spend an arm and a leg at a shop. Some of this stuff is actually fun and very satisfying when completed and you can save a bunch of $$ and your truck will love the attention. Flushing the power steering system is one of the fun things to do because if you aren't careful, fluid can fly everywhere! You don't want any leaks so flush the system and put in ATF and maybe some Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak. That stuff works! As for why Toyota specs ATF, I don't know the differences in properties between that and P/S fluid but that Toyota specs it that way is good enough for me. I have read here and elsewhere that P/S fluid in our Cruisers can cause problems.

grrlscout89FJ62 said:
No probs. :)

OK, another dumb question ... is it bad for the PS fluid and ATF to mix? Cuz ... theoretically, if it keeps leaking out slowly, and I keep putting in ATF, it'll eventually all be ATF, right?

And just to satisfy my curiosity, why should it be ATF? :confused:
Click to expand...
 
At least you can scratch one off the list- you've no timing chain. :D

They may have meant #8 on this diagram-

http://www.sor.com/sor/cat030.tam?xax=4221&page.ctx=cat030.tam

As for cleaning, maybe call around to local mechanics and find a shop that's got a heated pressure washer. For fun, you could rent one!
 
Last edited:
eshelbyk said:
At least you can scratch one off the list- you've no timing chain. :D
Click to expand...
LOL! I didn't think that sounded right, but figured I was the LEAST qualified person to question it. I have somethin like one of these thingers (a gear?), no?

034B.gif


I have a friend of a friend who has a pressure washer ... but I bet it would be easier if it was on a lift. Plus the gravel we laid out is still all nice and pretty and new looking. Kinda hate to grease it up. Might have to look into other options there.
 
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