Another hard to diagnose 200 Stereo/Camera Thread

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Hi,
Newbie here with complex problem…. very grateful for any help.

My father in law has a 2011 J200 Land Cruiser, with about 220k km on it. He doesn’t use it frequently. It’s entirely stock with the JBL Navigation/audio/multi disc changer and Hard Drive system. The amp is Harman Becker.

I am quite technically competent, but am only visiting him for the holidays and have zero tools.

The issue is this.
What doesn’t work:
1. The rear view camera used to work but today nothing happens when you put it in reverse.
2. The head unit has any option which may emit sound disabled - so the AM/FM tabs are unselectable on the touch screen. The bluetooth tab works, however, it’s impossible to connect a BT audio device as that is greyed out.
3. While the key beep function is enabled in the general settings menu, pressing any key does not produce a beep.
4. The rear parking sensors do not work.
5. The buttons and knobs on the audio unit do not do anything.

What works (and the car is otherwise normal):
1. The screen powers on and shows a map with the correct GPS location for the vehicle while driving.
2. The touch screen works and you can look at various menu options.
3. All the air con unit controls work perfectly.

Worth noting that the speakers and the rear camera stopped working simultaneously after a period of heavy rain though impossible to say water is the ultimate culprit with certainty.

In reading around this it seems such failures are common, hard to diagnose and ultimately expensive to fix.

It seems to me the whole contraption is in several parts:
1. The Head Unit
2. The Multi-disc/CD/Radio unit
3. The amplifier under the passenger seat
4. The external accessories (rear camera, parking sensors)
5. An inordinately complicated wiring look which goes the full length of the vehicle.

If one were to randomly start replacing things it’d be easy to spend more than the car’s worth and still not diagnose the problem…

I had a go at running the MOST diagnostics.

When I first ran them, the top of the screen was green and they looked like this.
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However, there’s no mention of Amplifier or Camera on the connected components list - it doesn’t even look like they are being scanned for?

Then I thought I’d check the fuses. I took the two 30A Amp1 and Amp2 fuses out. That didn’t fix anything. However, since doing that the MOST diagnosis screen looks different - now the top is red instead of green. The CAMERA and SPCheck ON buttons you can’t click on.

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When you run the diagnostics, it’s still not picking up the speakers nor the camera.

The only other thing I looked at was the RAD1 fuse (10A) but that is also fine.

So I’m wondering whether this hellps narrow the problem down to a faulty amp, camera, head unit or some wiring connection.

Many thanks for any help anyone can offer in advance.
 
It would be wise to pull the plastic trim above the front door sills and look for evidence of water in the area.
 
I agree with @bloc to look for dampness in the sills from roof drains or windshield and cowl. All 5 of the components listed have connections that get corroded when wet. Multiple electrical issues seem to often be corroded connections and usually in the sills.
 
I agree with @bloc to look for dampness in the sills from roof drains or windshield and cowl. All 5 of the components listed have connections that get corroded when wet. Multiple electrical issues seem to often be corroded connections and usually in the sills.
Thanks both. That prompted me to read about MOST - and I think your suggestion makes sense. MOST is a ring network and I kept scratching my head as to why the Youtube diagnostic videos I've seen show the devices as disconnected when they get unplugged, whereas mine doesn't even show the devices. I think the answer (or at least the one I come up with) is that the head unit diagnostic is detecting that the MOST ring is likely broken, and therefore there is no point even showing the devices - the only devices that can be tested are the ones inside the head unit (EVM and USB) - once the MOST ring leaves the head unit it ceases to be a ring. This would be very likely a connector issue and it would also explain why the stereo and camera stopped working simultaneously.

The only thing that's still unclear is why the diagnostic screen looked different before I checked the amp fuses...

I don't have a panel removal tool so this may be as far as I get, but I'll see if tugging on the panels is doable.
 
Well, some progress...

I pulled the sill and opened up the driver side connectors...

The bottom connector on the driver side (LHD car) shows fairly visible signs of corrosion. I haven't looked at the passenger side yet.

The middle driver side connector looked OK and I haven't pulled the top one.

This connector seems to be FL1 here: FL1 Connector so there's a good chance it's part of the problem.

Can you help a newbie with advice on how to clean? Or does this corrosion look serious enough to be beyond cleaning? What would a fix look like in that case? I can't imagine the car wiring loom is replaceable?

My main concern is presumably I'll need to disconnect the batteries when cleaning - but I need the car to be driveable and am worried it will need some special procedure to initialise post battery reconnect? This car has two batteries also - advice on how to disconnect also welcome!

Many thanks in advance!


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Well, you found the problem.

Be sure to fix the leak!

Here’s a thread on pin cleaning.

 
Well, I cleaned the connector, twice. No dice - didn't change anything....

Should I be pulling the amplifier next or the head unit?
 

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