Another Flat Towing Line of Questions...

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So, I am trying to help my in-laws out with determining what they need to allow them to flat tow their 2010 automatic FJC.

I found the following at Remco's website:

They no longer manufacture or sell drive line disconnects but still indicate that a drive line disconnect may be required. I have read through a ton of past and closed threads regarding the need for the disconnect on the front prop shaft, so I am not trying to debate the need but I am trying to find out if the reason for Remco's change is due to failures or litigation from owner's rig failures.

Also, I noticed several options on their website for tail light wiring kits ranging from $110 to $180. Help here in determining what is needed would be great.

One last item: FJC front bumper - Most of the rigs have had the ARB combo bumper used. Is there any reason why a different bumper could not be used? Also, can it be a winch bumper or does the winch get in the way of base plate attachment?

Here is the info I got from Remco's website for anyone wanting information for flat towing their FJC:

Components Needed to flat tow the FJ-Cruiser:

Found this on www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/Store.php

Front Propeller shaft disconnect: Call Melinda at Southwest Drivelines (928-782-3611) or David at Drive Shaft King (800-442-6329).

Base Plates – Blue OX BX3768 - $430.00
Braking System – Blue OX Patriot Brake System (PN 10050000) - $1395.00
Safety Cable Kit – Blue OX Safety Cable Kit, Class IV, (PN 10020028) - $100.00
Tail Light Wiring Kit – There are several options here ranging between $120 and $180.
Tow Bars – Blue Ox Aventa LX Class IV, Ball Swivel (PN 10020037) - $845.00

Thanks!
 
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As a follow-up to my earlier post, I called melinda at Southwest Drivelines, in Yuma AZ, and she was able to shed some light. Remco sold their drive line... line to a company that no longer manufactures the drive line disconnects. Southwest Drivelines takes your stock drive line and modifies it to be disconnect capable. Here is a link to their website: www.swdriveline.com

Melinda was very helpful in directing me to some additional information. On their website, they have a form that can be filled out, which will allow them to give a price quote for your specific vehicle, which I thought was very nice.:)
 
Thank you. I'll accept that:beer:. :cheers:

I also found out some interesting information regarding braking systems for towing, with the most important being that typical trailer brake systems (box type) are NOT progressive and therefore apply the same resistance (braking) regardless of the situation, meaning that you may end up having to "fiddle" with the settings (adjustments) if your load or terrain changes very much. Since I am looking at a system for retirees, I wanted to suggest to them a system that could adjust to the situation and therefore provide progressive braking. Three manufacturers were suggested to me: US Gear, Roadmaster, and SMI. For my application where the RV brakes are hydraulic assist and not air brakes, the US Gear unit is what I am suggesting to my in-laws.:)
 
I think my old man is running he Roadmaster, at least that is what my feable mind is recalling.

I don't recall what I had in my '96 Dodge Cummins w/7k lb 5th wheel, it was fun driving it down from the top of Big Bear Pass in CA...:eek:
 
LOL! I know Big Bear very well! My in-laws live in Apple Valley. They have taken the "back-way" home with the Cruiser. I think my Mother-in-Law almost wet her pants at some of the spots coming down!
 
While this is not FJ specific, I have used this light setup for ever rig I have flat towed behind the motor home.

For taillights, I usually run a separate wiring harness along or inside the frame rail from front to rear with a four way flat end on the rear. At the front, this harness is tied into the towing harness connection for the RV to tow rig setup.

For lights, I use a light bar that I have made from a ball mount adapter, a piece of angle iron, and trailer lights. Put this in the receiver hitch of the rig, connect the wiring harness to the on the trailer lights to the four way flat on the harness described above.

I do it this way because I absolutely HATE cutting / splicing into the factory wiring harness which is required for most of the wiring kits.

Yes, the light bar is something else to stow at the campsite / hook up prior to departing, but it works well.

Also look at Demco for towbars. I have an Excalibar which will be up to the task for anything I am likely to tow.
 
elk - that is great information. I like the idea of something simple and modular, in that it can easily be attached and detached.
 
MTB - I don't think I am going to see my in-laws do what Robin Williams did in RV, with the Rolling Green Turd! LOL!
 
elk - that is great information. I like the idea of something simple and modular, in that it can easily be attached and detached.

Also look at something like this http://www.lslproducts.com/ToadChargePage.html to keep the battery of the FJC charged. They have updated this thing, but it really works and if the motor home is wired correctly, you do not need to do the MH wiring side PLUS the 12V+ on the 7 way will only be hot when the engine of the MH is running, so no battery drainage.
 
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Thank you for the reply. They have not completed the work yet, as finances on the various parts is holding them back for a little bit. I did talk with my father in law and he is now thinking of getting the Demello "Evil Eye" bumper seen here:
http://www.demello-offroad.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_64&products_id=315
instead of the ARB to make his a bit more personal.

Does anyone see any reason why any well made bumper with solid recovery points won't work well in this situation? I figure the bumper will be the largest single cost to his expenditure, but the installation will be the portion where he will need to most help, given that he is 65 and has not typically done his own wrenching.
 
I just bought a 2013 FJ 4x4 with automatic transmission and would also like to flat tow it behind a motorhome. In fact, I have bought AND INSTALLED everything except for a remco disconnect. A friend of mine is now concerned that the front driveshaft would also need a disconnect or my tranny or transfer case or both would be damaged...??? We have both researched this THOROUGHLY yet cannot find a definite answer. I even went to my selling dealer and talked to a mechanic, but the topic is taboo for them. Next I called six, yes six local tranny repair shops and four of the six said the front axle would be Ok as the front wheels free spin in 2Hi, but two of the six said the front driveshaft would also have to be disconnected because at least one wheel is not free spinning. Does anyone have any better info regarding whether or not damage would occur if only the rear driveshaft is disconnected??? THANK YOU, Jeff...
 
Jeff,

Everything I have read so far and even when I spoke with Southwest Drivelines, it sounded like disconnecting of the rear was really all that needed to happen, with the exception of having the transmission in park and the transfer case in neutral. There are several threads on this board that goes into real detail regarding the set up that you should read and take a look at the link in post 12 too.

Jonathan
 
No Go on Remco

Here’s the latest turn of events. Called Remco, confirmed they no longer make the disconnect and got the name of the company in Iowa that they sold the rights to build it too. Called them got the model # needed for my FJ and name of a local driveshaft company they recommended to do the work.
Went to the driveshaft company to get the order going and was told: We won’t do those mods anymore. With the close tolerances on newer vehicles it’s a real problem to keep the system balanced. They stopped doing the mods because of too many customer complaints of bad vibrations when driving the vehicle. One was so bad he could not keep the cup from jumping out of the cup holder at 60 MPH.
Back to thinking about a trailer to tow the FJC……. :bang:
 

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