Another AC Related Set of Questions (1 Viewer)

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Jul 29, 2014
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When I bought my LC the guy said the AC didn't work but he didn't know what was wrong. Now that it's getting warmer and it's suppose to hit 100F this weekend I want to start trouble shooting and get it running.

First thing I noticed is the belt was missing so I bought a new belt but haven't installed it yet. I pressed on one of the valves and there is some pressure in the system but I didn't take a reading. Will I damage something if I install the belt and cycle the AC a few times to see what happens? I'm thinking it's ok to try it but wanted a more experienced opinion. Thanks in advance.

PS, I realize this is not a "set" of questions yet but it will get there. Wait for it...
 
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Before you install the belt, spin the pulley by hand and see if it spins easily. Then turn the front hub of the compressor, it should have some resistance but be able to be turned.
 
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Theres a pressure sensor in the AC system, if the pressure is not within limits the compressor will not engage so you won't damage anything by turning it on (unless there are crazy electrical issues).
 
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Before you install the belt, spin the pulley by hand and see if it spins easily. Then turn the front hub of the compressor, it should have some resistance but be able to be turned.
I'd do what he said^^^
If the compressor is out its $200 but it's worth it also your on off valve could be stuck.
 
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Thanks for all the info. I'll trouble shoot this weekend. Is there a serial number or other identifier on the compressor that will help me locate a rebuild kit? Not sure how many different compressors were used by Mr. T for the LC. I have a 97 if that helps.
 
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All the 80 series compressors are the same, 10PA17 series Denso. The '91-mid '93 had ND6 (mineral) oil for R12 and the '93+ had ND8 oil (PAG 46) for R134a. Since Denso only shows a part # for the '93+ it can be used on an early 80 if it's still using R12, by changing out the oil. Resealing the compressor isn't horribly difficult but rebuilding one is an entirely different story.
 
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Like what everyone has said, you won't damage anything, unless your clutch is NS. If there is refrigerant in the system, and if there is sufficient amount to generate the minimum pressure, the clutch should engage when you press the A/C switch with the engine running. You should try this without the belts if you hadn't already installed them. Came across this local ad today a for rebuilt compressor.
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Joined
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Tacoma, WA
Again, thanks for all of the feedback. So I checked out the things listed and here's what I found:

Idler pulley spins freely
AC pulley spins freely
AC hub spins with minimal resistance

With the engine running I pressed the AC light on the dash. The light comes on, I hear a click like a relay engaging coming from somewhere near the passenger foot well, but nothing happens at the compressor. This was with the belt still off but I don't think that should matter, correct?

I'm guessing the next steps would be to check the pressure in the system to make sure there is enough for it to trigger whatever safety mechanism is in place. How can I check that I'm getting voltage at the compressor when the button is engaged? I'll do some online research. It's 97F outside right now. Luckily we're taking my wife's Outback with super cool AC to our Luau dinner this evening.
 

kruisinkid

topless dorkel
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if i were you i would just go to pep boys or autozone or whatever and get a can of the freon with the pressure gauge and hose attached to the can. read the instructions and watch the youtube video and fill her up.

you need to check for continuity i believe at the pressure switch first which is near the battery and sightglass. i think thats what the FSM has you troubleshoot first. you really need the FSM to troubleshoot the AC system. it can get complicated. oh and technically its the compressor's clutch that is needing electricity, not the compressor itself. but you get it.
 
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So I installed the drive belt for my AC compressor, found the electrical plug to the compressor was disconnected (reconnected now), and added some freon. It's difficult to see in the video but the clutch appears to be slipping/not fully engaging. That's assuming the clutch is engaging at all or maybe there is just some drag between the pulley and clutch.


The sight glass is showing some movement but it's not solid liquid. I added freon until I was at the high end of the acceptable range per the gauge.


Air in cabin is not blowing cold. Do you think I should try rebuilding the clutch? I didn't try the jumper wire but I did get .4 volts at the connector. That was before I added the freon. What voltage should I see at compressor? I'm really trying not to spend money on a professional mechanic...obviously. :)
 
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