Another 2F Desmog ? (1 Viewer)

[martymart]

I found an inexpensive 1981 2F for my 11/1970 FJ40 to replace my dead F engine. I have completely rebuilt the motor and about to place the rebuilt head onto the core. However, the motor has absolutely ZERO emissions equipment, zero valves (ie, VSV, HIC, VTV, BVSV, etc.) and no charcoal canister. I will transplant the Downey/Mark’s header and Weber 38 DGES carb into the 2F. I have read multiple conversations about desmogging and read Jim C’s FJ60 desmog document. In all that I have read, they all keep some of the valves or other equipment. I was originally going to set up (route all the tubing) similar to what I had on the F engine and block off all the remaining openings. After reading many different material, I am questioning whether I can keep the 2F as simple as the F. Do I need to install any of those emissions valves? I also understand that I may need to locate and install the charcoal canister and what is all the equipment that would I need for that, if necessary? Any assistance would help.

I have spent a lot of money on the rebuild, which far exceeded my budget. Some of that is due to the original machine shop not doing a good enough job and having to take it elsewhere. As a result, I do not want to add anymore “nice to haves” such as a Sniper or non-required equipment at this time.

FJ40 Description not mentioned above but may add some value: 2F intake manifold from a 1981 2F, No A/C and pulled the heater out (never used the heater), has the oil cooler, 1.0 MM oversize pistons, stock camshaft, the big cap OEM distributor has the MSD springs following instructions in a previous IH8MUD post, has a Saginaw steering pump so I added an extension to the harmonic balancer and a billet 2 groove pulley on the water pump (BTB products), no coil resister (never had one).

Thank you

 

[1911]

I found an inexpensive 1981 2F for my 11/1970 FJ40 to replace my dead F engine. I have completely rebuilt the motor and about to place the rebuilt head onto the core. However, the motor has absolutely ZERO emissions equipment, zero valves (ie, VSV, HIC, VTV, BVSV, etc.) and no charcoal canister. I will transplant the Downey/Mark’s header and Weber 38 DGES carb into the 2F. I have read multiple conversations about desmogging and read Jim C’s FJ60 desmog document. In all that I have read, they all keep some of the valves or other equipment. I was originally going to set up (route all the tubing) similar to what I had on the F engine and block off all the remaining openings. After reading many different material, I am questioning whether I can keep the 2F as simple as the F. Do I need to install any of those emissions valves? I also understand that I may need to locate and install the charcoal canister and what is all the equipment that would I need for that, if necessary? Any assistance would help.

I have spent a lot of money on the rebuild, which far exceeded my budget. Some of that is due to the original machine shop not doing a good enough job and having to take it elsewhere. As a result, I do not want to add anymore “nice to haves” such as a Sniper or non-required equipment at this time.

FJ40 Description not mentioned above but may add some value: 2F intake manifold from a 1981 2F, No A/C and pulled the heater out (never used the heater), has the oil cooler, 1.0 MM oversize pistons, stock camshaft, the big cap OEM distributor has the MSD springs as mentioned in a previous IH8MUD post, has a Saginaw steering pump so I added an extension to the harmonic balancer and a billet 2 groove pulley on the water pump (BTB products), no coil resister (never had one).

Thank you

As my dear departed mom used to say, "you don't have to do anything, except die and pay taxes".

But some of that equipment is useful and valuable. The distributor evacuation system will keep water vapor and ozone out of your dizzy, and keep it from rusting prematurely. The charcoal canister will help keep gasoline odor out of the cab. The High Altitude Compensation system will make it much more drivable when you go up in the mountains.

If I had any of these, I wouldn't delete them (actually I do have all of them, because I didn't delete them ...), but if I didn't have them I wouldn't spend any real money to get them back. They are conveniences that make life easier but nothing you couldn't live without.

 

[mrboatman]

I put a 2F from an 84 in my 69 40. I removed all of the smog, plugged the head air ports and installed a TLC air pump delete pulley. Also plugged the thermostat housing ports. I got a stud kit from SOR and used my F engine intake and exhaust manifold. You will need to extend your oil pressure wiring and alternator wiring depending on your mounting. You can get all of your wiring needs from @Coolerman. Cruiser Wiring - http://globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm

 

[martymart]

I put a 2F from an 84 in my 69 40. I removed all of the smog, plugged the head air ports and installed a TLC air pump delete pulley. Also plugged the thermostat housing ports. I got a stud kit from SOR and used my F engine intake and exhaust manifold. You will need to extend your oil pressure wiring and alternator wiring depending on your mounting. You can get all of your wiring needs from @Coolerman. Cruiser Wiring - http://globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm

Thanks for the wiring reminder. Coolerman had refurbished my entire wiring harness a few years back. Do I need the air pump delete pulley? It did not appear that I needed it.

 

[Pighead]

Do I need the air pump delete pulley?

Maybe not. My power steering pump sorta takes the place of the air pump.
I put an early 2F block in a '74 FJ55. About as de-smogged as you can get, it's got 1 vacuum line. I did keep the gas vapor separator and charcoal canister though.
You might want to use your early intake manifold.
You'll probably need longer wires for the 2F starter motor. And different front motor mounts

 

[mrboatman]

Your F motor mounts will work fine you just have to drill out the bolt holes some. The only reason for the air pump delete pulley is for belt length to remain the same. You may not need it. Also check your vacuum advance to make sure it holds vacuum most of them are bad.

 

[martymart]

Thanks for the feedback. I definitely do not want the gas vapor and smell so I’ll start piecing together the necessary equipment to include the charcoal canister.