angle of 60 series steering box and DW

[slickrock]

Please tell me you have more support than it looks on that front shackle hanger..

Yes, you can't see the gussets from the picture. It isn't just welded flat on the bottom, it is boxed.

 

[slickrock]

Pin head, I am going to tear down the axle when I get back and go through the rebuild process and see if anything is loose.

As for the pinion pointing to the t-case, it isn't, again weird angle from the camera. actually I had more of an angle away from the t-case but the wobble was really bad, so I took out the shims.

Looks like I will need to start from scratch. Maybe I need a drop pitman to get my drag link more horizonal to the tie rod.

Thanks guys. Give me a week or so and I will get back to you.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Things I can see in the crappy pictures:

1-You used the 60 series drag link ends. Unless you took them apart and snugged them down, they alone are enough to cause your problem. Trust me they totally suck. New ones come from the factory set way too loose. Replace with 80 series stuff or 1 ton GM stuff from 4x4 Labs.

2-Your bushings at the shackle hanger look jacked-what is going on inside the shakle? It looks strange. Are they new or old? If old, replace. Your shackle components doesn't look parallel-probably just the picture.

3-Just what is your caster-a quicky measure with an angle finder will suffice. With those tires and other funkyness, you want 2-4 degrees.

4-What is your toe measurement?

5-I'm having a bit of trouble following what you did and didn't do, but are your spring bushings new, and are they the exact right size for your shackle pins (which appear to be bolts)?


6-The steering stabilizer will not change your death wobble. So fix your truck so it doesn't wobble, then add the stabilizer.


I've had death wobble twice. Once in my 40-turned out a wheelbearing was going bad when I first got the truck 10 years ago, and the second was on my 80 series when it was the front panhard bushing. That was really hard to track down, but ended up being an easy fix. Keep plugging and don't drive until fixed.

. Maybe I need a drop pitman to get my drag link more horizonal to the tie rod.

.

Look carefully-you have a drop Pittman arm. There isn't another with more drop that fits on an FJ60 box. (And it won't solve your problem either).

 

[belaw]

Pin head, I am going to tear down the axle when I get back and go through the rebuild process and see if anything is loose.

As for the pinion pointing to the t-case, it isn't, again weird angle from the camera. actually I had more of an angle away from the t-case but the wobble was really bad, so I took out the shims.

Looks like I will need to start from scratch. Maybe I need a drop pitman to get my drag link more horizonal to the tie rod.

Thanks guys. Give me a week or so and I will get back to you.

Slickrock:

If you find a source for a dropped pitman arm that fits a 60 box please post it up!

Brian

 

[slickrock]

Things I can see in the crappy pictures:

1-You used the 60 series drag link ends. Unless you took them apart and snugged them down, they alone are enough to cause your problem. Trust me they totally suck. New ones come from the factory set way too loose. Replace with 80 series stuff or 1 ton GM stuff from 4x4 Labs. Yes they suck But they are VERY VERY tight and cranked as far as I could get them with a GIANT corw bar like screw driver.

2-Your bushings at the shackle hanger look jacked-what is going on inside the shakle? It looks strange. Are they new or old? If old, replace. Your shackle components doesn't look parallel-probably just the picture. Shackle bushing are brnad new from Toyota.

3-Just what is your caster-a quicky measure with an angle finder will suffice. With those tires and other funkyness, you want 2-4 degrees. CAster is right at 2

4-What is your toe measurement? toe 1/8" toe in (front is 1/8 " narrower than rear)

5-I'm having a bit of trouble following what you did and didn't do, but are your spring bushings new, and are they the exact right size for your shackle pins (which appear to be bolts)? (OEM brand new Toyota)


6-The steering stabilizer will not change your death wobble. So fix your truck so it doesn't wobble, then add the stabilizer.


I've had death wobble twice. Once in my 40-turned out a wheelbearing was going bad when I first got the truck 10 years ago, and the second was on my 80 series when it was the front panhard bushing. That was really hard to track down, but ended up being an easy fix. Keep plugging and don't drive until fixed.




Look carefully-you have a drop Pittman arm. There isn't another with more drop that fits on an FJ60 box. (And it won't solve your problem either).

YEah I need to go back to the basics I am afraid. A long weekend in the operation garage is in order. Maybe a knuckle bolt or some BS needs swapped out.

 

[slickrock]

Slickrock:

If you find a source for a dropped pitman arm that fits a 60 box please post it up!

Brian

As stated, the only one I have heard of needs a PROFESSIONAL WELDER to take a stock 40 series pitman arm and flipp it over. I am not condoning that, but . . .


Drew, how woud I use an 80 series draglink and keep my pitman?

 

[Poser]

CAster is right at 2

Finally, an answer to my question from post #2 and post #6....





Still did not state how you went about measuring your caster angle......

 

[Cruiserdrew]

As stated, the only one I have heard of needs a PROFESSIONAL WELDER to take a stock 40 series pitman arm and flipp it over. I am not condoning that, but . . .


Drew, how woud I use an 80 series draglink and keep my pitman?

You'd have to use 2 TRes and a high steer kit.

Or rebore the taper in the pittman arm, which I have done to fit 1 ton stuff. Works perfectly.

 

[slickrock]

Finally, an answer to my question from post #2 and post #6....




Still did not state how you went about measuring your caster angle......

Sorry for the late response, jsut got back froma club trip to Calico High Desert. I measured from the bottom of the knuckles on the flat surface between the duct cover and the metal casting.

 

[slickrock]

You'd have to use 2 TRes and a high steer kit.

Or rebore the taper in the pittman arm, which I have done to fit 1 ton stuff. Works perfectly.

You want to know what's funny, I ave an 80 sereis drag link that a buddy gave me for my stock axle. Bet it would work great on the new axle. I'll try it in the next fe days.

 

[slickrock]

Well I took apart eveything including the knuckles. They were tight and running great. Wasn't them. The only thing that seemed to help was taking apart the knuckle side drag link end. It seemed to be a bit loose so I cranked down the lame joint. Better and just a hint of wobble. I think it is those ends. I know I am stuck with the pitman arm side, but can an 80 series drag link end replace the lame 60 series drag link end? If so, I think that should be what I replace.

 

[belaw]

TRE/drag link question

Things I can see in the ****py pictures:

1-You used the 60 series drag link ends. Unless you took them apart and snugged them down, they alone are enough to cause your problem.

Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but I'm in the final (hopefully) planning stages of a 60 power steering and disc brake conversion, and this message got my attention.

Since I will be using a "custom" tie rod and drag link, I have some flexiability in the TREs I use. Are 70 series drag link ends any better than the 60 stuff? If not, how do I go about tightening them up?

Thanks,
Brian