Did you ever get this installed? Any pictures?
AMSOIL remote oil filter mount - good idea?
- Thread starter RockDoc
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YES PLEASE POST UP
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all my oil cooler lines and crap is leaking.. and time for a clean up.....this would help bunches
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.all my oil cooler lines and crap is leaking.. and time for a clean up.....this would help bunches
.- Thread starter
- #24
Should get to it on Thursday or Friday 
, I have this, changing the oil pan gasket and installing a pair of IPOR (Procar) seats to do before I head back to Edmonton on the weekend. Pics then.
I have pulled the air pump silencer, and the headlight washer pump and reservoir to make room for the filter mount next to the rad on the DS. The coolant overflow reservoir will need to be moved back behind the filter mount, but that shouldn't be a problem. The lines should run across the front of the engine along beside the air inlet hose for the smog pump......
, I have this, changing the oil pan gasket and installing a pair of IPOR (Procar) seats to do before I head back to Edmonton on the weekend. Pics then.I have pulled the air pump silencer, and the headlight washer pump and reservoir to make room for the filter mount next to the rad on the DS. The coolant overflow reservoir will need to be moved back behind the filter mount, but that shouldn't be a problem. The lines should run across the front of the engine along beside the air inlet hose for the smog pump......
. I will like changing the filters without a mess though.....
I doubt you will get clean oil out of the filter. Dark oil means the detergents in the oil are doing their job.
I have a Nissan sentra that sees oil changes every 10 to 15000 miles, sometimes I change the filter between changes. Once and a while I will check it and the oil is down and I will add a couple ounces. 274,000 miles and counting. Doesn't smoke a bit. I ran amsoil in my 83 FJ60 and put 65k(135k to 195k) on it sold it to a friend and 10k(205k at least) later it lost the head gasket, some galling in the #6 cylinder (had lots of leaks) low oil maybe at one time. Not much glaze, no ring ridge and all bearings, main and connecting rods were within spec. .002 or better. Replaced connecting rod bearings and spec's didn't improve. The only significant repair was a couple of valves and a guide.
The history of the vehicle was sordid, it had a reusable System "1" oil filter up until 135k. I have no idea what oil the PO used. I think the remote filter and bypass is definitely better but don't know if it is necessary if quality filters and lubricants are used.
The prelube seems overkill, the amsoil should stick on the moving parts long enough to be adequate protection unless it sits for a long time between starts. Warming the rig up is a good idea as well.
I have a Nissan sentra that sees oil changes every 10 to 15000 miles, sometimes I change the filter between changes. Once and a while I will check it and the oil is down and I will add a couple ounces. 274,000 miles and counting. Doesn't smoke a bit. I ran amsoil in my 83 FJ60 and put 65k(135k to 195k) on it sold it to a friend and 10k(205k at least) later it lost the head gasket, some galling in the #6 cylinder (had lots of leaks) low oil maybe at one time. Not much glaze, no ring ridge and all bearings, main and connecting rods were within spec. .002 or better. Replaced connecting rod bearings and spec's didn't improve. The only significant repair was a couple of valves and a guide.
The history of the vehicle was sordid, it had a reusable System "1" oil filter up until 135k. I have no idea what oil the PO used. I think the remote filter and bypass is definitely better but don't know if it is necessary if quality filters and lubricants are used.
The prelube seems overkill, the amsoil should stick on the moving parts long enough to be adequate protection unless it sits for a long time between starts. Warming the rig up is a good idea as well.
- Thread starter
- #28
Well, It's in, and it doesn't leak, so at the very least there is no damage done. The dry fill capacity is now 9.5 litres (well as dry as it gets with the oil pan off overnight anyway) up from 8 litres by the FSM. I ended up mounting it behind the driver's side headlights, with the AI silencer and the headlight washer reservoir gone, and the coolant overflow reservoir moved. Just enough room to install and remove the filters with the coolant reservoir pulled out.
I grabbed a sample of the oil (5.5L captured and re-used, 4L new) just after start up, so I will grab another now that it has some highway time and see if there is any difference that can be picked out...... Still need to give the hoses a bit more attention to make sure there are no long term rubs, ended up using about 3' for each.
Anyway, a couple of picks. Can't get a decent one of the adapter in place on the stock filter mount, but you can get the idea from AMSOIL's site.
I grabbed a sample of the oil (5.5L captured and re-used, 4L new) just after start up, so I will grab another now that it has some highway time and see if there is any difference that can be picked out...... Still need to give the hoses a bit more attention to make sure there are no long term rubs, ended up using about 3' for each.
Anyway, a couple of picks. Can't get a decent one of the adapter in place on the stock filter mount, but you can get the idea from AMSOIL's site.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Just enough, not awkward at all, I was able to fill them up before screwing them in. All the mess under them is the headlight harness I put in, so it is all pretty flexible. I think this is going to be a hell of a lot easier than messing with the stock set-up. Still a bit curious how it would work hanging from the hood.... just easier to put it where I did considering I won't miss the silencer or the headlight washer.
Excellent.....thank you
Nice clean install. My only question now is how are you going to collect the oil that spews/drips/whatevers from the filter mounting plate? Maybe it just looks like the lines are running down towards the filters. IDK.
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- #33
Hmmm, figure I will try slipping the bottom of a pop bottle under the filter when I take it off and hope that there isn't too much that comes out. Worse comes to worse, I guess an old towel shoved in under them should catch most of the drippings. Another option would be to un-bolt the mount (4 nuts in front of the sheet metal) and swing it up over a pan.
where was you planning hanging the unit from the hood at? passenger....driver?
I am considering this...but unsure about the lines when the hood is shut
- Thread starter
- #35
I was thinking passenger side kind of behind the air cleaner, above the coil and fuel filter.....
You'd have to be careful how you run the lines, and likely use some shoelaces or springs or shock-cord to suspend them, but allow for flex when the hood is raised.
You'd have to be careful how you run the lines, and likely use some shoelaces or springs or shock-cord to suspend them, but allow for flex when the hood is raised.
Oh.. i think i will go behind the drivers headlight then
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- #37
Oh.. i think i will go behind the drivers headlight then
If you put it there, I would suggest shifting it slightly outward, or getting a pair of 45 or 90 degree fittings to avoid the edge of the radiator.
- Thread starter
- #38
Well, put some more miles on the oil and filter set-up, and today dropped what was in the sump to prep for the next round of arctic air coming in (and the potential for cold temps with no electricity at River Shiver in 10 days).
Have some results to show!
So, the oil had an average age of 4050 km after the install, I grabbed a sample immediately after firing up after the filter install. As it came out today, the same oil had an average age of 6080 km (2030 km with the by-pass set-up).
The photos below show a paper "chromotography" comparison of the 2 samples, drops of oil were doled out on the paper with the eye end of a sewing needle. On the far left is the original oil sample ("before", 4050 km) after 1 month of settling, next to it (left center) is the same sample after shaking to mix in anything that settled. On the far right is today's sample ("after") after say an hour of settling, right center is the same after shaking.
It was pretty clear doling it out that the before oil acted a bit thicker, with a larger drop carried by the needle. As the drops sat and sucked into the paper, the before sample took much longer to absorb into the paper than the "thinner" after oil. After sitting long enough to spread out some, the before oil left a notably darker patch than the after oil, a distinction that is even clearer on the photos.
So, does the filter seem to be doing good things? I would say so, the oil has gone half again as long in the engine, and is clearly "cleaner". What does this mean in terms of chemistry and constitution of the oil?
But it clearly is pulling out insolubles.
Sooooo, I think I'll try sticking the samples under one of the transmitted microscopes at the university to see if I can image some of the suspended bits. Not sure if I can get decent photos, but if there is something to see I'll try.
Have some results to show!
So, the oil had an average age of 4050 km after the install, I grabbed a sample immediately after firing up after the filter install. As it came out today, the same oil had an average age of 6080 km (2030 km with the by-pass set-up).
The photos below show a paper "chromotography" comparison of the 2 samples, drops of oil were doled out on the paper with the eye end of a sewing needle. On the far left is the original oil sample ("before", 4050 km) after 1 month of settling, next to it (left center) is the same sample after shaking to mix in anything that settled. On the far right is today's sample ("after") after say an hour of settling, right center is the same after shaking.
It was pretty clear doling it out that the before oil acted a bit thicker, with a larger drop carried by the needle. As the drops sat and sucked into the paper, the before sample took much longer to absorb into the paper than the "thinner" after oil. After sitting long enough to spread out some, the before oil left a notably darker patch than the after oil, a distinction that is even clearer on the photos.
So, does the filter seem to be doing good things? I would say so, the oil has gone half again as long in the engine, and is clearly "cleaner". What does this mean in terms of chemistry and constitution of the oil?
But it clearly is pulling out insolubles.Sooooo, I think I'll try sticking the samples under one of the transmitted microscopes at the university to see if I can image some of the suspended bits. Not sure if I can get decent photos, but if there is something to see I'll try.
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You should send your oil out to be analyzed just to see what's going on with your oil. Bob Is The Oil Guy