Am I looking at a lifter job on my 2008 LC 200

[DecreedIt]

Hey folks, had the LC for a while now and getting fully attuned to the drive feel and noises.

2008, 168k - well maintained, religious oil changes, but did have some deferred maintenance needs when I bought from family member (My Aunt, this was a true highway/mall cruiser).

I've got what I think is either lifter/valve train noise, or possibly an exhaust manifold 'tick' but - seems to come from both sides. From some research here, like this thread: 200 engine loud? - seems like this might be normal and nothing to worry about.

Would appreciate opinions here, normal? Or something to worry about. Unlisted video series for your listening pleasure:
From the cabin, getting out:
Under the hood:
From under the car, behind driver's wheel: LC 200 Idle 3

thanks all

 

[MidlandLC]

I experienced this issue due to the wrong oil being put in. Add some Lucas Engine Oil Stabilizer to your oil and see if it helps. If so have some of the genuine Toyota OW-20 engine oil put in the motor. The lifters on the 5.7 engines are hydraulic and often stick from residue due to poor oil/gasoline quality. Fill up with premium gasoline and possibly add an fuel injector cleaner from Lucas. If that doesn't help you're looking at about 6k in lifter replacement from a Toyota dealer.

 

[DecreedIt]

I experienced this issue due to the wrong oil being put in. Add some Lucas Engine Oil Stabilizer to your oil and see if it helps. If so have some of the genuine Toyota OW-20 engine oil put in the motor. The lifters on the 5.7 engines are hydraulic and often stick from residue due to poor oil/gasoline quality. Fill up with premium gasoline and possibly add an fuel injector cleaner from Lucas. If that doesn't help you're looking at about 6k in lifter replacement from a Toyota dealer.

Well - might as well rip off the band aid and go straight to worst case scenario, huh?

According to service records - it's either "Synthetic Oil" - "Mobil 1" or "castrol synthic" [sic] for the 1st 100k miles; at 100,108 miles invoices (all from the same service station in their home town) switch to "0-20 synthic" - and the stickers all over the place under the hood all say 0w-20 as does sharpie on the engine cover. So - here's hoping? I've had it changed twice once at dealer (good) and then at local independent specializing in LCs among others - also 0w-20 there.

Will look into the Lucas oil, but have to say it sounds like lifter tapping to me, hence this thread.

 

[tirewater]

The valvetrain is noisy on the 5.7 v8. A web search of the same engine in the Tundra yields lots of complaints of noise. Some engines are more noisy than others.

I haven't really noticed much difference in mine when comparing Mobil 1 0w-20 (or 5w-20) and Toyota's 0w-20. Some people do say they do. 5w-30 may help, logically you'd think the lifter would bleed down slower, at the expense of pumping up slower too.

 

[DecreedIt]

The valvetrain is noisy on the 5.7 v8. A web search of the same engine in the Tundra yields lots of complaints of noise. Some engines are more noisy than others.

I haven't really noticed much difference in mine when comparing Mobil 1 0w-20 (or 5w-20) and Toyota's 0w-20. Some people do say they do. 5w-30 may help, logically you'd think the lifter would bleed down slower, at the expense of pumping up slower too.

Yeah I've seen zero other valve train wear/damage symptom indicators, so, debating Lucas (or similar) oil treatment and see where that goes.

Appreciate the feedback!

 

[bloc]

NO to the Lucas oil stabilizer. Modern oils are FAR more advanced than the stuff around when Lucas was a good idea. The stuff is apparently loaded with parafins and turns into a solid mass at low temps.

Try an oil change with a good 5-30. I recently switched to pennzoil platinum 5-30 on account of the high temps here and having 150k on my engine. Not that it was extra noisy, but the 5-30 definitely put ear muffs on the valve train noise inherent in this engine.

 

[bloc]

More info: I’m Switching my 200’s to 5W-30, Here’s Why.....

Note that running 5-30 in the 3UR is done in the tundra world a lot.

Also note that I’m aware with modern engines thicker is not necessarily always better, but it seems there is a sweet spot and lots of people with our engine are having great results with 5-30, and that it is specified in this engine in large parts of the rest of the world.

 

[tirewater]

Yeah I've seen zero other valve train wear/damage symptom indicators, so, debating Lucas (or similar) oil treatment and see where that goes.

Appreciate the feedback!

I don't like the noise, but it doesn't seem to be an issue mechanically. A quick internet search of Ford's Coyote engine (quad overhead cam v8) shows people complaining of lifter noise as well. Also a few Lexus 5.0 (another UR) owners complaining.

 

[04UZJ100]

Put 5W30 in my LX today. Amazed at how much quieter it was at idle.

 

[DecreedIt]

Y'all are the best, thank you. Will try a 5w30, no additives. Going for 500k on this gal so, this is important.

 

[MidlandLC]

I wasn't suggesting that you run Lucas every time you change your oil. It's perfectly fine to use once especially during the warmer months. I treated the oil with Lucas oil stabilizer and the fuel with Lucas injector cleaner. If you read the LC 200's manual, they reference knocking in the motor to bad fuel quality and/or low octane. The poor fuel quality will cause lifters to stick causing the knocking. I started running premium fuel full time and ran the Lucas injector cleaner ONE time on a full tank and my lifter noise issues were completely solved. Good suggestions in this thread but I would never use any oil other than what Toyota recommends (Toyota Brand 0W-20). Best of luck!

 

[ThomasGS4]

For the guys that did put in 5W-30, which brand did you use?

 

[04UZJ100]

For the guys that did put in 5W-30, which brand did you use?

M1EP. Plan on 7.5k OCIs on Cruiser and 5k OCIs on LX due to usage.

 

[bloc]

I wasn't suggesting that you run Lucas every time you change your oil. It's perfectly fine to use once especially during the warmer months. I treated the oil with Lucas oil stabilizer and the fuel with Lucas injector cleaner. If you read the LC 200's manual, they reference knocking in the motor to bad fuel quality and/or low octane. The poor fuel quality will cause lifters to stick causing the knocking. I started running premium fuel full time and ran the Lucas injector cleaner ONE time on a full tank and my lifter noise issues were completely solved. Good suggestions in this thread but I would never use any oil other than what Toyota recommends (Toyota Brand 0W-20). Best of luck!

I don't see how preignition has anything to do with sticking lifters, we are talking about two mostly unrelated systems. But if you feel it helped then go for it. I personally run a "big bottle" of techron every 5k in an attempt to keep my injectors clean, with plans to eventually pull them all and have them professionally cleaned and balanced as PM.

I just don't want people to get the idea an outdated oil additive is a good long-term solution to this minor and likely ultimately harmless issue. Lucas oil stabilizer has been thoroughly picked apart on BITOG as unnecessary in modern engines running modern oils.

As for what toyota recommends, they explicitly state that a thicker viscosity "may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions." Not sure about you but I drive at high speeds, and add high temps to that equation as well. Also, in large parts of the rest of the world this very engine in the landcruiser has the following in the owner's manual: 0w-20, 5w-20, and 5w-30, recommended for every temperature range, then 10w-30 above 0F, 15w-40 above 10F, and 20w-50 above 20F.

So again, you can do what you want. Technically in the US Toyota recommends TGMO 0w-20. But that is far from the whole story, and in MY engine 5w-30 that is technically approved by toyota sure made those valves less noisy.

For the guys that did put in 5W-30, which brand did you use?

I am running Pennzoil Platinum (not Ultra Platinum) that I got for $14/5qts with a mail-in rebate at Oreilly. If you spend any time on Bob Is The Oil Guy (incredible resource, but you can spend many hours learning mostly useless information), the consensus is most modern synthetics that meet engine builder certifications are very very effective, and the usual advice is run whatever major brand you can find on sale. Basically all of them will return great Used Oil Analysis results and prevent lubrication-related engine issues for a very long time. I did run across some anecdotes of quieter valve trains on the 3UR running PP vs Mobil1 in the same viscosity, and between that and the very cheap price that's what I used, and am very happy with the results.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Thanks for this thread. I have many times noticed what I would describe as a "diesel sound" from my engine, but not always. The sound is very similar. After a lot of research it seemed that it was fairly common and nothing to worry about. I am now thinking about 5w-30 as I live in Phoenix and temps are brutal. Maybe that will quiet it down a bit too.

 

[04UZJ100]

Thanks for this thread. I have many times noticed what I would describe as a "diesel sound" from my engine, but not always. The sound is very similar. After a lot of research it seemed that it was fairly common and nothing to worry about. I am now thinking about 5w-30 as I live in Phoenix and temps are brutal. Maybe that will quiet it down a bit too.

I was impressed how much quieter the 3UR-FE is on 5W-30. Both the LX and Cruiser are noticeably quieter with it.

 

[DecreedIt]

Alright just did oil change to Kirkland Full Synthetic 5w-30 installed Jowett's housing kit. Noticeably quieter, I think. Did it on Saturday, did a quick around the block shakedown drive in the neighborhood, parked it, delivered kids to school this AM - about a 20 min round trip in-town driving, max 45 mph, enough to get nice and warm. Pulled into the garage and shot this new video:


Sounds quieter to me. Will give it some miles see how she does.

 

[gaijin]

As for what toyota recommends, they explicitly state that a thicker viscosity "may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions." Not sure about you but I drive at high speeds, and add high temps to that equation as well. Also, in large parts of the rest of the world this very engine in the landcruiser has the following in the owner's manual: 0w-20, 5w-20, and 5w-30, recommended for every temperature range, then 10w-30 above 0F, 15w-40 above 10F, and 20w-50 above 20F.

For those of us who are visual learners, is this the chart you are referring to?

So again, you can do what you want. Technically in the US Toyota recommends TGMO 0w-20. But that is far from the whole story, and in MY engine 5w-30 that is technically approved by toyota sure made those valves less noisy.

And just for reference, in the U.S.:

HTH

 

[DecreedIt]

Also noticed on cold startup, oil pressure gauge goes higher than it used to, about 2-3 notches - then settles in about the same exact place when warm. Subtle change, I'll keep an eye on it to see if longer term observation makes a difference.