Alternator wiring advice

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Hi all, looking for some advice from the collective expertise. The charging connection coming from our alternator keeps failing. I’ve cleaned it up and changed loops twice now. There is evidence of heat and corrosion.

I’d like to replace the wire completely with a lower gauge, but it goes into the loom and behind the dash and I would rather not lose the pass through the ammeter. Anybody else dealt with this?

Thanks
 
IMG_2249.jpeg
 

Blue ones. Add a new length with loop connnector.
 
Wanted to add some more details and seek some more advice. I think there may be more going on that just replacing a connection.

While we are driving around, occasionally the three lights that denote an alternator issue (oil pressure, timing) come on. Sometimes they will flash in time with the turn signal. On some drives the lights will come on when the Troopy is started. We can sometime clear the lights if they come on at start by restarting.

I have a theory that this might be linked to the issue with the connector. Hence wondering if replacing the entire connection between the alternator and battery is feasible and a possible fix, though don't know how that would work and keep the dash warning lights and other connections.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Hi all, looking for some advice from the collective expertise. The charging connection coming from our alternator keeps failing. I’ve cleaned it up and changed loops twice now. There is evidence of heat and corrosion.

I’d like to replace the wire completely with a lower gauge, but it goes into the loom and behind the dash and I would rather not lose the pass through the ammeter. Anybody else dealt with this?

Thanks
What year, model, and engine do you have? I'm surprised that you have an ammeter. If you mean volt meter, then it doesn't have to go through the dash to get to the battery.
 
I probably misspoke on the ammeter it might just be a volt meter.

It’s a 1991 75 series with a 1HZ. South American. Coming off the alternator the charge wire goes into a loom that heads through the firewall before re-emerging and connecting to the battery.
 
I probably misspoke on the ammeter it might just be a volt meter.

It’s a 1991 75 series with a 1HZ. South American. Coming off the alternator the charge wire goes into a loom that heads through the firewall before re-emerging and connecting to the battery.
If it’s South American you probably should go through the entire wire harness. Lots of shenanigans when it comes to wiring from that region. Check first, fusible links coming off the battery. If they’re hard wires and not fusible links don’t drive it until you change that. Also, check fuse box to make sure appropriate fuses are in appropriate locations. Next check that you have a clean ground connection coming from the engine to the battery on both terminals. Test alternator as well.
 
I had a similar problem with the cable failing at the end once.
I dealt with it just by unwrapping the loom a bit and cutting off about 6 inches of cable, then joining on a much thicker piece with an eye terminal to connect to the alternator.
Not the most comprehensive fix, but I've had no problems since.
 
I had a similar problem with the cable failing at the end once.
I dealt with it just by unwrapping the loom a bit and cutting off about 6 inches of cable, then joining on a much thicker piece with an eye terminal to connect to the alternator.
Not the most comprehensive fix, but I've had no problems since.
Appreciate this, went ahead and did this fix over the weekend. Spent a lot of time cleaning the stud coming off the alternator as well.

Mudandrock, you are correct too, lots of ingenuity in solving problems in most of the places these rigs are run, my driveway included. Replaced a lot of connectors and marked a lot of wires in the last three years.
 
According to the wiring diagrams I have the main charge wire goes directly from the alternator to the battery through Fusible Link AM1, 1.25B. I would highly recommend running a new, larger cable through the engine bay directly to the battery. If the charge lights don't work after that then reconnect the wire that goes through the firewall, too.
 

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