Alternator troubles.

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Spike Strip said:
Yeah, those crimps are crap. Easiest to fix is with a hammer type crimper and some good self-adhesive heat shrink.

Amazon LINK
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I’ll add that to my list of tools.

Before I go any further, I’m going to get that fixed, and go back to something discussed earlier: The fusible link and a rebuild for it.
As I understand it, the link is not only a preventative measure, but also essentially links the alternator to the battery and if it’s bad, that would pretty much explain everything.
 
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Yes, the Fusible Link, like any fuse is both for safety and is part of the circuit.

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Spike Strip said:
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I’m going to buy their rebuild kit today, and get started on that ASAP.

Between talking here on Mud; I’ve got an old school mechanic that has worked on cars in my family that I’ve known since I was a kid, so I reached out to him too. Either way, this has been helpful and puts me one step closer. I tell myself “I’m not in a rush”, but at the same time, I’m rushing 😂
 
Link rebuild kit will be here today. Will be back with any further updates.

I’m also thinking after I get all this done, I will probably create a separate thread for everything pertaining to my 60; to keep it all in one place as I continue working on it.
 
So the rebuild kit is here and…I couldn’t really contain my curiosity so I started to do a takedown. Immediately I got this scent of “something definitely burned in this thing” and sure enough, I found the problem, as pictured.

The fried wire actually broke off and I was afraid that the end of it was stuck/melted inside, but after some prying, it came out.

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There will be a question that may go unanswered once I complete this: What caused the shortage?

I have a “theory”, though.
The previous owner installed an extra fuse panel under the hood. He had told me he had it in mind to install a fridge inside of the truck.

Call me crazy or inexperienced, but from what I understand about stock 60 alternators, it’s already what, 55 amps? I don’t think it can handle the load of a small fridge? What do any of you guys think?
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
There will be a question that may go unanswered once I complete this: What caused the shortage?

I have a “theory”, though.
The previous owner installed an extra fuse panel under the hood. He had told me he had it in mind to install a fridge inside of the truck.

Call me crazy or inexperienced, but from what I understand about stock 60 alternators, it’s already what, 55 amps? I don’t think it can handle the load of a small fridge? What do any of you guys think?
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Depends on the fridge. Per the specs, my Engel pulls 2A max, and probably less than an amp under normal use. Maybe I should actually measure that some time.
 
Spike Strip said:
A surprisingly common reason for that red fusible link to fry is because a wrench hit grounding when someone was removing the alternator leads without disconnecting the battery.
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☠️ It’s always something so simple that you’re not even thinking about.
toy_tek said:
Depends on the fridge. Per the specs, my Engel pulls 2A max, and probably less than an amp under normal use. Maybe I should actually measure that some time.
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Ah. That actually doesn’t sound so bad, then.
 
Had to wait on extra wire strippers and picked up a second hand ratchet crimper.

I thought the video from Cruiser Cult did a walkthrough of the rebuild, but of course not.

Just did a little running around; I’m gonna have to buy the die I need for my ratchet crimper since nobody seems to have them in-store, online. No biggie I suppose.
 
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@Spike Strip Got the proper die for my crimpers yesterday and started working on the rebuild today.

I’m gonna go out on a limb and say I don’t really like how this looks. Am I overthinking or overexaggerating?

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I think those look fine - very good, in fact. If you're worried about the crimp, just give a gentle tug and if they're snug, you're good to go. You can check for continuity also, just to make sure connections are good.
 
Spike Strip said:
I think those look fine - very good, in fact. If you're worried about the crimp, just give a gentle tug and if they're snug, you're good to go. You can check for continuity also, just to make sure connections are good.
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Great. And yeah, I gave them a little tug to make sure. Seem to be a-okay.
I did some continuity tests as well just now, and it looks like I’m getting some numbers…I still don’t 100% understand how that works; I get some numbers and it goes back to 1 (not 0) for instance…
 
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So, key in ignition. 12.25 on the gauge.
Took voltage reading from the alternator (negative probe on negative alt post, positive probe on positive battery post); 12.25.

That leads me to believe that the battery may just need a charge (in fact I need to replace it due to a mishap I had).

I even tested the battery with my tester and it gives me a “Low” reading.

However, I am definitely getting stronger/brighter lights on the dash for “Charge” and the Seatbelt light.
Also, I believe that the sound I was looking for may really just be disabled (which I’m not really worried about in the long run).
 
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