Alternator troubles.

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Slight update today: I was on the phone with some of the contacts I was given and here’s one of the things I noted:

There could be a wiring issue. One thing that was relayed to me was that if there’s not a battery indicator showing up on the dash, then there’s more than likely a wiring problem. And when I last ran my truck, I did not see a battery indicator on the dash. When I get home from work today though, I’m going to check again.

I haven’t had the courage to open up my alternator to check my brushes (I know that’s another potential issue), I’m moreso concerned about potentially damaging anything. Should I still go ahead and open it up?

There is a place that’s willing to rebuild my alternator if the rear housing isn’t falling apart (from what I can tell, it isn’t) for $200; I was going to take it up there on Friday and at least have it looked at. And I’m still waiting to hear back from another shop.
 
Another thing I thought of that I briefly spoke to @CruiserTrash about: upgrading the alternator to one from the 80 series. So that’s a potential thing I can do too, BUT probably not a good idea at the moment IF there is indeed a wiring issue.
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
Slight update today: I was on the phone with some of the contacts I was given and here’s one of the things I noted:

There could be a wiring issue. One thing that was relayed to me was that if there’s not a battery indicator showing up on the dash, then there’s more than likely a wiring problem. And when I last ran my truck, I did not see a battery indicator on the dash. When I get home from work today though, I’m going to check again.

I haven’t had the courage to open up my alternator to check my brushes (I know that’s another potential issue), I’m moreso concerned about potentially damaging anything. Should I still go ahead and open it up?

There is a place that’s willing to rebuild my alternator if the rear housing isn’t falling apart (from what I can tell, it isn’t) for $200; I was going to take it up there on Friday and at least have it looked at. And I’m still waiting to hear back from another shop.
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And just to confirm something else, I was looking at a video that I have in my gallery from one of the times I had the engine running and I was inside, I don’t believe I had a light on for the battery on the dash. As far as I’m aware, it would light up regardless of the time of day (I’m merely saying that based upon driving with my Camry every day).

And it’s funny how in that same video I took, it didn’t even OCCUR to me that there was an issue because I looked directly at the voltage gauge and it was below 12…and this video in particular was recorded months ago. 😂
 
@Spike Strip

Was doing some searches around here and found a thread from 2021 kind of in the vein of alternator things and a fellow was having some issues with his CLR - Charging Light Relay. It’s my understanding that it’s been under the passenger kick panel. I’ve taken mine off and…I have an idea of what I’m looking for but I don’t see it?

Could the location have changed between ‘83 and ‘84?
 
I took a quick photo for reference.

IMG_8495.webp
 
For the Charge Lamp Relay, I'm not sure, but I think others have posted that it's on the Driver's side (under kick panel) for pre-4/85 trucks. Can't verify cuz I don't have one. It's obviously not in your pic, so check the other side.

As for the Alternator, have you had it tested? If not, you need to rule out the simple stuff first (like alternator and fusible link) before searching for other causes. I wouldn't take it apart, they can be tricky to get back together.

I had an FJ60 alternator rebuilt from a quality outfit near me a few months ago and it was $190 plus shipping, so your place is in the ballpark.

Also, fwiw, the alternator amp meter is notoriously inaccurate. Mine reads below 12v at idle (always has) and I'm running (for now) a fresh 80-amp 3FE alternator. I just put one of those cheap cig lighter volt meters in the cig lighter spot to keep an eye on charging.
 
Spike Strip said:
For the Charge Lamp Relay, I'm not sure, but I think others have posted that it's on the Driver's side (under kick panel) for pre-4/85 trucks. Can't verify cuz I don't have one. It's obviously not in your pic, so check the other side.

As for the Alternator, have you had it tested? If not, you need to rule out the simple stuff first (like alternator and fusible link) before searching for other causes. I wouldn't take it apart, they can be tricky to get back together.

I had an FJ60 alternator rebuilt from a quality outfit near me a few months ago and it was $190 plus shipping, so your place is in the ballpark.

Also, fwiw, the alternator amp meter is notoriously inaccurate. Mine reads below 12v at idle (always has) and I'm running (for now) a fresh 80-amp 3FE alternator. I just put one of those cheap cig lighter volt meters in the cig lighter spot to keep an eye on charging.
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Ya I went and checked the driver side kick panel and I found it; I just didn’t update the finding.

I’ve tried getting the alternator tested at various shops, including places like Autozone, Advance, Napa, and other car shops…no dice.

I have a multimeter that I’ve been using and as far as I can tell, it’s not giving me a charge.

I also have a battery/alternator tester that has also given me no “green light” that the alternator is doing its job; but it sure is telling me the that the battery is low.

Lastly, when I last had the engine running, I did a simple test and disconnected the positive battery terminal. Truck shut off.

However I’m going to make a separate reply from this one about the fusible link, as I just pulled it for inspection.
 
Attached are some photos I took of my stock fusible link:

Call me crazy, but that browning on the individual “terminals” and connections don’t look promising to me.

IMG_8505.webp


IMG_8509.webp


IMG_8520.webp


IMG_8526.webp


IMG_8527.webp
 
I went to test the Continuity for the Discharge Warning Light relay (assuming we just call it the Charge Light Relay), I didn’t get a reading, even after I reconnected the battery; I’m following the FSM as best I can with regards to the last bit, maybe I did something wrong.
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
I’ve tried getting the alternator tested at various shops, including places like Autozone, Advance, Napa, and other car shops…no dice.
Click to expand...

Does this 👆👆mean they wouldn't test it or they tested it and it was bad?


Test the Fusible link for continuity for each wire. You can clean the contacts with a little emery board and contact cleaner. Doesn't look bad in your pictures. Perhaps it got a little hot on the green female side.

I've never tested the Charge lamp relay, I've only removed the cover and sprayed with DeOxit to clean it. Seemed to work.
 
Spike Strip said:
Does this 👆👆mean they wouldn't test it or they tested it and it was bad?


Test the Fusible link for continuity for each wire. You can clean the contacts with a little emery board and contact cleaner. Doesn't look bad in your pictures. Perhaps it got a little hot on the green female side.

I've never tested the Charge lamp relay, I've only removed the cover and sprayed with DeOxit to clean it. Seemed to work.
Click to expand...
When I went to Advance, their machine “wasn’t working”. Napa told me they wouldn’t, and Autozone “tested” it, but I went back a 2nd time after I replaced the VR and they said, “The first time you came the machine wasn’t working and it’s still not working now” so I haven’t bothered to go back.

I’m testing the link shortly; I’m actually putting the alternator back in to do another test.

Edit: Can you strip the link down to just the wires or do I need to test via connectors/terminals?
 
@Spike Strip
I spoke to @HemiAlex on Wednesday too (he may/may not chime in but nonetheless), and he had me OHM the link; I did a Continuity test too like you suggested and it hasn’t given me a reading on my multimeter. It’s possible there’s been some kinda failure in the alternator and the link was fried to protect the system (that’s how I understand it).

In any case, I am headed to the shop that I sourced from @GA Architect for the alternator rebuild. I’m bringing the link as well for them to get a closer look too; I may have that rebuilt too. Right now money is a tad tight but I plan to get the “updated” one from @CruiserTrash too in the future.
 
That's a good plan. But I doubt the rebuild shop will have the proper FL wire to rebuild Fusible Link, if it's no good.

In addition to the CruiserTrash replacement, Cruiser Cult guys have a kit, but you will need to source the proper double-crimp tool.

cruiser-cult.myshopify.com

FJ60 Fusible link Rebuild Kit

With the FJ60 Fusible Links now no longer available from Toyota, we wanted to put together a high quality Do-it-yourself repair kit to be able to service and rebuild your existing connectors. This kit comes with: -Genuine Yakazi fusible link wire in the correct gauge. -New Sumitomo Terminals for...
cruiser-cult.myshopify.com
 
Spike Strip said:
That's a good plan. But I doubt the rebuild shop will have the proper FL wire to rebuild Fusible Link, if it's no good.

In addition to the CruiserTrash replacement, Cruiser Cult guys have a kit, but you will need to source the proper double-crimp tool.

cruiser-cult.myshopify.com

FJ60 Fusible link Rebuild Kit

With the FJ60 Fusible Links now no longer available from Toyota, we wanted to put together a high quality Do-it-yourself repair kit to be able to service and rebuild your existing connectors. This kit comes with: -Genuine Yakazi fusible link wire in the correct gauge. -New Sumitomo Terminals for...
cruiser-cult.myshopify.com
Click to expand...
Fair enough.

Turns out the shop is closed (owner had to leave due to an emergency), so that sucks. For an hour’s drive.

I’ll just have to wait until I get another free day during the week.
 
Update: I made it back out to the shop this morning and had my alternator properly tested. Bad diode(s). I don’t have a timeline as to when the work will be completed as there are several customers ahead of me.
 
Spike Strip said:
That's a good plan. But I doubt the rebuild shop will have the proper FL wire to rebuild Fusible Link, if it's no good.

In addition to the CruiserTrash replacement, Cruiser Cult guys have a kit, but you will need to source the proper double-crimp tool.

cruiser-cult.myshopify.com

FJ60 Fusible link Rebuild Kit

With the FJ60 Fusible Links now no longer available from Toyota, we wanted to put together a high quality Do-it-yourself repair kit to be able to service and rebuild your existing connectors. This kit comes with: -Genuine Yakazi fusible link wire in the correct gauge. -New Sumitomo Terminals for...
cruiser-cult.myshopify.com
Click to expand...
I’m still thinking about rebuilding my stock link until I can make a full transition to the newer one from CT.

I did an initial google search of a “double crimp” tool and found a few varying results…what’s special about the one I’ll need in particular?
 
Not really 'necessary'. It's just for getting that factory look and secure purchase on the wire. Can be done with a simple wire crimper, but won't look pretty. I've even seen it done with needle-nose pliers.

I got this one years ago and it has worked well, but there are a other non-ratcheting crimpers that are cheaper. It's a good investment if you plan to do lots of wiring to your truck with factory-style connectors.

 
Spike Strip said:
Not really 'necessary'. It's just for getting that factory look and secure purchase on the wire. Can be done with a simple wire crimper, but won't look pretty. I've even seen it done with needle-nose pliers.

I got this one years ago and it has worked well, but there are a other non-ratcheting crimpers that are cheaper. It's a good investment if you plan to do lots of wiring to your truck with factory-style connectors.

Click to expand...
Ah, okay! I’ll definitely grab a pair. Should come in handy…appreciate that.
 
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