I had to quit and get the 80 back together as its raining.
I need to get a 22mm wrench that can fit in the pulley to turn the nut while holding the stud with the torque wrench.
I still don't know if I can get it apart to replace the bearings.
The brushes still have 5mm left on them. 10.5mm is new and min is 1.5mm so I didn't replace them.
If the alt has been rebuilt buy a alt rebuilding shop or Toyota, would it have a reman tage in it?
Mine doesn't say reman or rebuilt.
it will be interesting finding 22mm wrench that has enough offset to reach the bottom and will still fit in the pulley, an impact will do it, as a teenager I worked at an auto parts store and often had to switch the pulley from the old alt to the new we had a low power electric impact to get the nuts off
my rebuilt alt has a “Bosch re-manufactured” sticker on it, if it is a Toyota rebuild it will have a -84 on the end of the part # if it just has a Toyota tag without the -84 it is an original, no tag = unknown
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=16839;start=msg162474#msg162474 date=1085351238]
If the alt has been rebuilt buy a alt rebuilding shop or Toyota, would it have a reman tage in it?
Mine doesn't say reman or rebuilt.
[/quote]
Mine has a new tag on it from the remanufacturer. I called them up and found out it was originally a factory unit.
I just wear a glove and hold the pulley and use a regular 1/2" drive impact gun to take the nut off and also to put it back on. If you have some lead jaws or can protect the pulley, you could put it in a vise to take it off. I would not lock it down and bang away with the impact to put it back on. The alternator shop where I have dealt for years always does it this way so I figured if it was good enough for them it was good enough for me. You may need a small puller after the nut is off for the pulley but in general they are not on super tight.
Probably because they are correct. Not everyone though is going to own all the sst's, and I doubt many dealerships's have them. So, much of this stuff is just common sense. For example the FSM shows a sst to press on the alt. bearing when say a piece of pipe the right size will work just as well. I think for an inexperienced person, I would follow the FSM as close as possible. With more experience you learn what you can and what you should not do. I would not try to lock the pulley in bare vise jaws and hit it with an impact gun. The pulley can get burrs, the pulley can spin and get chewed up etc. Tightening, if the pulley is locked down and someone bangs away the can bust the nut off the end of the shaft. Not good to beat on the pulley to try to remove it. Some tin pulleys can be bent using a puller too hard. So, just common sense and experience. I just switched alternator pulley's from the stock alternator to a Delco for more output with the impact gun and can still sleep well at night.
$.02 worth.
I had a helluva time taking the pulley off of the alternator on my Runner. I tried putting on my wife's rubber washing gloves but I could not hold the pulley with the air gun going; the nut was really stuck. I ended up getting it by wrapping a strap wrench around the pulley and hitting it with the impact wrench over and over til it let loose. HTH
Turbo - Ya, you need really big strong hands to do that. I'd tell you how to get hands like that but I'm having trouble seeing the keyboard.
Oh, and be careful wearing the wifes clothes.
I just got the Craftman (strap wrench???). It had the rubber strap that grips the thing you want to turn.
That tool might hold the pulley.
What about putting the pulley back on and getting the pulley nut tight? Same way I got it off?
Once I get the pulley off, should the rest of the bearing replacment go easy?
Is there any thing else that should give me problems?