Alternator - OEM or aftermarket??

[diego355]

I did a Napa 20k and 1.5 years ago. Water crossings, mud, winching, dual batteries and fridge with no issues.

 

[46/71 Hybrid]

I'm in the minority also, I've been buying parts-store branded alternators for years and haven't had any issues. With a lifetime warranty, it's also piece of mind for the wallet if you're doing the labor yourself.

IMHO, alternator designs haven't changed drastically enough over the last 20-30 years to keep small manufacturers from catching up in terms of quality, longevity, etc. Shucks, having been stationed in India for a short time and seeing how call centers and small factories worked, I think that some of these parts are either made side by side or at least source some of the same internals when they're going together.

 

[Spike555]

I'm in the minority also, I've been buying parts-store branded alternators for years and haven't had any issues. With a lifetime warranty, it's also piece of mind for the wallet if you're doing the labor yourself.

IMHO, alternator designs haven't changed drastically enough over the last 20-30 years to keep small manufacturers from catching up in terms of quality, longevity, etc. Shucks, having been stationed in India for a short time and seeing how call centers and small factories worked, I think that some of these parts are either made side by side or at least source some of the same internals when they're going together.

Just food for thought, I used to think the same thing, lifetime warranty who cares? But where the alternator is buried on the 100 series and a huge PIA to replace.

And I think alternator quality is getting worse.

I know for a fact that in the US there are only two places that rebuild alternators but use different branded boxes.
While one "brand" might be of slightly higher quality it is still done in the same service center.

My first alternator lasted a year, replace under warranty from AutoZone, then the next 3 only lasted a year combined. One dies on vacation, drove 200 miles in July with only the battery, replaced the alternator the next day (they had to order it) with a 1/4" socket set and my Swiss Army knife. The last straw was on a road trip, alternator died 1500 miles from home, but I had brought a used one off ebay, change it in a church parking lot. That one lasted two years.
Returned it for my money back. I'll never buy a parts store alternator again.

 

[46/71 Hybrid]

Just food for thought, I used to think the same thing, lifetime warranty who cares? But where the alternator is buried on the 100 series and a huge PIA to replace.

And I think alternator quality is getting worse.

I know for a fact that in the US there are only two places that rebuild alternators but use different branded boxes.
While one "brand" might be of slightly higher quality it is still done in the same service center.

My first alternator lasted a year, replace under warranty from AutoZone, then the next 3 only lasted a year combined. One dies on vacation, drove 200 miles in July with only the battery, replaced the alternator the next day (they had to order it) with a 1/4" socket set and my Swiss Army knife. The last straw was on a road trip, alternator died 1500 miles from home, but I had brought a used one off ebay, change it in a church parking lot. That one lasted two years.
Returned it for my money back. I'll never buy a parts store alternator again.

WIth experiences like those, I don't blame you one bit. How's your latest alternator working out? With such a quick failure rate, are you certain something else in the charging system isn't causing premature wear?

I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum, I put a Duralast alt into my old Landcruiser that's still living in Ethiopia and 8 years later, it's still going strong running LEDs, a winch, extra batt, etc. Same for a 100 I worked on a few years ago, the Duralast special is still plugging along. I guess it's one of those YMMV type deals but to go through 4 in 2 years is pretty rough...

 

[Spike555]

WIth experiences like those, I don't blame you one bit. How's your latest alternator working out? With such a quick failure rate, are you certain something else in the charging system isn't causing premature wear?

I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum, I put a Duralast alt into my old Landcruiser that's still living in Ethiopia and 8 years later, it's still going strong running LEDs, a winch, extra batt, etc. Same for a 100 I worked on a few years ago, the Duralast special is still plugging along. I guess it's one of those YMMV type deals but to go through 4 in 2 years is pretty rough...

The one in my Cruiser is doing great, Denso reman, 2yrs now.

The electrical system on the truck was perfect. I was the second owner and the first ot replace the alternator. The only change was the alternator. I understand what you're saying, but nothing changed. Went back to the OEM and problem solved.

 

[keepit100]

So I pulled my 19 year old stock alternator out today and, frankly, it looks pretty damn good. Removed the brush assembly and one of the two brushes was below minimum 4.5 mm exposed and the other was about 6 mm exposed. Will replace with new brush assembly for $25. Other than that everything looks good...shaft spins freely. Will clean electrical connection and greese before reinstalling.
Anything else I should be looking for here? Thanks everyone!

 

[Pyrenees]

So I pulled my 19 year old stock alternator out today and, frankly, it looks pretty damn good. Removed the brush assembly and one of the two brushes was below minimum 4.5 mm exposed and the other was about 6 mm exposed. Will replace with new brush assembly for $25. Other than that everything looks good...shaft spins freely. Will clean electrical connection and greese before reinstalling.

Thanks for the photos.

Can I bother you with two questions?

1) to get the brushes out, do you have to remove the whole alternator from the car?

2) can you post the part number?

I'm not having any issues with my electrical system, but if this is seriously a $25 part I might just order one and throw it in the tool bag I leave in the back of my 100, kind of like how I keep an extra house HVAC capacitor in my electrical bag.

Thanks,

 

[keepit100]

Thanks for the photos.

Can I bother you with two questions?

1) to get the brushes out, do you have to remove the whole alternator from the car?

2) can you post the part number?

I'm not having any issues with my electrical system, but if this is seriously a $25 part I might just order one and throw it in the tool bag I leave in the back of my 100, kind of like how I keep an extra house HVAC capacitor in my electrical bag.

Thanks,

Yes the alternator needs to be removed and the end cap removed to expose brush assembly. There is also the regulator to worry about but most of the time that’s not the cause. The little regulator alone is $215 from dealer . Most all the time it’s the brushes that wear down.

Toyota Part No.: 27370-75060

 

[Pyrenees]

Yes the alternator needs to be removed and the end cap removed to expose brush assembly. There is also the regulator to worry about but most of the time that’s not the cause. The little regulator alone is $215 from dealer . Most all the time it’s the brushes that wear down.

Toyota Part No.: 27370-75060

I have had so many bad experiences with reman alternators that I am wary. I went through three Bosch remans on my old BMW before I found one where it didn't have blown diodes/whining. Then I got a FoMoCo reman for our Volvo V50 (because it was lots of Ford factory parts on that car) and it s*** the bed within 6 months. I hate alternators. Thanks for the info!!!

 

[Spike555]

So I pulled my 19 year old stock alternator out today and, frankly, it looks pretty damn good. Removed the brush assembly and one of the two brushes was below minimum 4.5 mm exposed and the other was about 6 mm exposed. Will replace with new brush assembly for $25. Other than that everything looks good...shaft spins freely. Will clean electrical connection and greese before reinstalling.
Anything else I should be looking for here? Thanks everyone!View attachment 1789387 View attachment 1789386

Bearings. Replace the bearings.

 

[hoser]

If anybody is well-versed in alternators, I'd like to know the differences (if any significant) between the 98-02 alternators and the 03-07 (pictured).

 

[Jackson Sanders]

I found local shop in Austin to rebuild the OEM unit when mine started to squeal. It has been a couple of years since without issue. I think it cost me about $150 and a day for them to rebuild.

 

[nissanh]

If anybody is well-versed in alternators, I'd like to know the differences (if any significant) between the 98-02 alternators and the 03-07 (pictured).

View attachment 1789779

Looks like newer alternator has 6 diodes (button cell like) and the older has 4, which clearly indicates more ampheres on the newer.

 

[nissanh]

So I pulled my 19 year old stock alternator out today and, frankly, it looks pretty damn good. Removed the brush assembly and one of the two brushes was below minimum 4.5 mm exposed and the other was about 6 mm exposed. Will replace with new brush assembly for $25. Other than that everything looks good...shaft spins freely. Will clean electrical connection and greese before reinstalling.
Anything else I should be

Try to blow off any dust inside the alternator.

 

[keepit100]

Turns out brushes were not the culprit. I took it in to get tested at Napa after I rebuilt it and it wouldn’t even crank on. Sooo I’m going with a Napa 100 amp for $135 ‍

 

[spear2]

Another option is to use a Tundra/Sequoia alternator. They are 130 or 150 amps, vs the LC 80amp alternator. Just need to wire up properly as the LC ony has a 3pin connector. The Tundra/Sequoia has 4pin connector (one pin will be a blank one for us). Do a search, found all the info I needed to do it properly around 3-4yrs ago.

 

[spear2]

If anybody is well-versed in alternators, I'd like to know the differences (if any significant) between the 98-02 alternators and the 03-07 (pictured).

View attachment 1789779

Hoser, I just noticed that your alternator has 4 pins like the newer Tundra/Sequoia alternators. Mine had the 3 pin plug like the pic in 'Keepit100' post above. Someone here can maybe verify that the newer LC alternators had the 4pin plug.

 

[hoser]

Yes, that is a 2003 100 series, 130A alternator with a 4-pin connector. Previously I had the Sequoia 150A alternator also with the same connector.

 

[Brent Trudo]

The alternator on my 99 LC took a dump. Initially I was going to go with stock alternator replacement but what does everyone think?
Aftermarket alternator offer higher amperage for less money. Anybody out there swap out alternators lately? What did you use? Thanks!

Factory OEM for me everytime.

 

[VijayW]

Last year, when the alternator on my LC '99 was going out (with loud whining bearings) at 260k, I bought a rebuilt one directly from Ace Alternators in Whittier, CA. They are one of the few family-owned alternator & starter rebuilding shops around. I am very happy with the item, and I only see good reviews about them on the internet.

Here's them on Facebook: Ace Alternators & Starters - Whittier, California - Automotive Parts Store | Facebook
I found them on eBay as the username ace_alternators

(Earlier I had rebuilt the Starter myself, but decided against rebuilding the alternator, as I don't have experience pulling bearings.)