alternative Toyota alternators?

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lovetoski

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Seems like there are quite a few Toy parts that swap between models, and model years. Many of us w/60's have noted that even when the stock electrical system is in top shape, it doesn't keep up with a full load (lights, 2 heater fans, wipers, radio, etc) at low rpm.

This doesn't seem to be the case w/62's, so could a 62 alt be swapped into a 60? Or, if not a 62 alt, any other Toy alts? I know about the GM thing, but it's not a straight bolt in, and it would be GM...
 
mean green will give you all the power you need. it bolts in easy too. it took me longer to get my old one out vs installing the mean green. it is pricey. price is a little better buying it direct from mean green, but not that much cheaper than MAF.
 
mines all stock and i have no problems with power. im even running a 220 watt amp bridged.
but how much are mean greens. im going to get a winch, so am going to go dual battery. do i need two alternators for that?
 
I have plenty of amperage, except when at idle for prolonged periods - and since I live in Seattle, and spend considerable time commuting, taking kids to soccer/etc, I'm at idle a lot. I need more amps at 700 rpm.

Mean green would work, lots of great comments, but it's expensive. Used 62 alts (for example) can be had for $50 or less.

You know the posts about "I found a set of Saab seats for $25, and they bolted right in" well, I'm wondering if there's a higher amp Toy alt that I could find used, that would bolt right in?

No pick 'n pulls near to where I live...or I'd go check my self...
 
Ming89FJ62 said:
Mean Green or GM from http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/alternators.html Much better than the stock 80 amp alt for a 62. I went w/ the Mean Green which was a direct drop in for the OEM - conversion pigtail plugs directly into the OEM wiring harness.

Harry
Click to expand...

How's the idle output? I had a Beck/Arnley 120A a while back, and it sucked ass at idle. My OEM 80A alt now is still practically brand new, but once I go dual batts and a winch (however far in the future the winch is gonne be, sheesh), I'm wonderinf how long an 80A can hack it.
 
Ming89FJ62 said:
Mean Green or GM from http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/alternators.html Much better than the stock 80 amp alt for a 62. I went w/ the Mean Green which was a direct drop in for the OEM - conversion pigtail plugs directly into the OEM wiring harness.

Harry
Click to expand...

Just called NWOR...nice guys, 140A and 160A options for an 87 LC, but priced 50% more than MeanGreen.
 
Doug,

Have a bad feeling you won't be able to find a high output alternator for less than the price of an OEM unit.

If you want more amps at idle, you might want to take a look at the Nippondenso high output units that Wrangler NW is selling. But they definately aren't cheap -- even more $$$ than the Mean Green but with the build quality from an OEM supplier.

Doesn't solve your immediate amp issue but if it's any consolation, dropping a new OEM unit on our truck didn't completely eliminate a similar issue either -- it just improved it a bit.

-db-
 
Pete,

I've talked to the wrangler guys - and have purchased from their catalog - good guys, and look to have a pretty awesome product. Could be that I'll end up there, but just want to explore other lower cost options first. The more money I can save for lift tickets the better...

Doug
 
Spook50 said:
How's the idle output? I had a Beck/Arnley 120A a while back, and it sucked ass at idle. My OEM 80A alt now is still practically brand new, but once I go dual batts and a winch (however far in the future the winch is gonne be, sheesh), I'm wonderinf how long an 80A can hack it.
Click to expand...

Per Mean Green (MG Industries) their high out-put alternator for FJ62's is rated at 100 amps at idle (1000 rpm) and maxs at 200 amps.

Harry
 
If you go with the Mean Green alternator, dont go to Cruiser Solutions, they have it for a "cheaper" price but with over two months of waiting on them i finally went another route

Nick
 
A standard FJ60 alternator can be rewound to produce good amperage at idle. Cost is under $100 bucks most places. Plus, you don't need to change anything around to accommodate it. I assume that your alternator is internally regulated?

M
 
Mike S said:
A standard FJ60 alternator can be rewound to produce good amperage at idle. Cost is under $100 bucks most places. Plus, you don't need to change anything around to accommodate it. I assume that your alternator is internally regulated?

M
Click to expand...

Yep - internally regulated. I inquired about this but was quoted ~$180...so, maybe I need to look into it a little more. I'll make some calls tomorrow and see what I can find out.
 
87CRUSR said:
REWOUND???? What kind of improved amperage does one get with that?
Click to expand...

It's been 30 years since I studied basic electronics, but as I remember more windings = more amps. Kind of depends on the original design as to how many more windings you can make. Prolly other variables too, but I can't access those grey cells any more...

I do know that the NWWrangler guys have a bolt-in solution at over 120 amps, based on a Nippondenso shell...so more windings (plus ??) can produce 2+ times the amps.
 
Ming89FJ62 said:
Per Mean Green (MG Industries) their high out-put alternator for FJ62's is rated at 100 amps at idle (1000 rpm) and maxs at 200 amps.

Harry
Click to expand...

How about voltage? That's where my B/A really took a dump. dropped down to about 10 volts at idle, and shot right up to 14 at 1200 RPM
 
Ming89FJ62 said:
Per Mean Green (MG Industries) their high out-put alternator for FJ62's is rated at 100 amps at idle (1000 rpm) and maxs at 200 amps.

Harry
Click to expand...


The problem is that FJ-62s idle at 650rpm and ~800 with the AC idle up circuit on. I'm running a Mechman hot rated 175 amp alternator (custom built with heavy duty components in a Ford case) with a custom ground pulley (turned undersized) to get better idle output. The fit is a little tricky. I just had W at Over the Hill build me a custom top bracket that works better. The case, however, is much smaller than the stock unit which is kind of nice. I'm also running dual yellow top batteries with 1/0 guage cables on the positive and negative sides. Both batteries are grounded directly to the alternator. Mechman puts a ground stud on the alternator body itself which is also kind of nice.

At idle I generally get >13 volts unless I've got a lot of accessories on. At 800 rpm I get >14 volts and life is good. As part of moving to an electric fan (which should show up any day) I'm going to rig the AC idle up to trigger whenever the fan or headlights are on. My headlights (H4/H1s) are rewired and see battery voltage -.03 volts so when the alt is kicking out 14 volts my headlights rock! This is a real bonus in Seattle weather :)
 
Re wind the current alt... even at $150 it's cheaper than a foreign (MG, GM or XYZ) alt, and it will be rebuilt with new bearings, etc. when it's done. Uses ALL the standard stuff you already have...

Dumb idea?

M
 
Mike S said:
Re wind the current alt... even at $150 it's cheaper than a foreign (MG, GM or XYZ) alt, and it will be rebuilt with new bearings, etc. when it's done. Uses ALL the standard stuff you already have...

Dumb idea?

M
Click to expand...

Nope. Just gotta find the right place to do this. In checking around Seattle, it seems like a real rewind/rebuild is becoming a lost art. Only one guy so far...maybe he'll be the guy.

Good advice Mike. Thanks.
 
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