20.5 was the magic number for the torsion bars, got an alignment and everything is great! It drives straight and very true now. thanks for the help spressomon!
Alignment questions and binding noise help
- Thread starter Mxndrnks
- Start date
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That is kind of a bummer! I measured my center-hub to fenders and got 21 7/8. I am running OME 863s in the back as I have skid plate, roof rack, drawer plans, but as it sits today, lowering the front to 20.5" is going to look a bit odd. Guess that will speed up my build plans a little!
pfran42 said:
Perusing some oldish threads...
Paul, is 21 7/8" your front measurement? What's your front setup again.
4Peanut said:
Just saw this... Will check in the morning and report back. Last time I had a sitdown with the 30mm socket, I think I went down to 20.5".
-Sent from a smartphone that can't spell.
Any updates on your experience with the 10mm spacers? I just installed 1.25" hub centric ones in front and rear. And right away, I could see number of the same challenges you were having with rubbing at top/back of front wheel well. (I'm running 12mm body lift, so I thought I might be ok.)
The back is great with the 1.25". I'm now debating between 10mm for the front and/or 1" body-lift... or just living with it. I'm running 285/75R18, so not exactly the same time.
Sonk, you can try temporarily removing your plastic fender liner completely. If the interference stops, then replace liner and trim to fit. If the rub is present without the liner, then no amount of trimming will make them fit and you'll have to go another route with the spacers.
Sonk, I'm curious: What's your goal with 1.25" wheel spacer adapters? Visual thing? I would think the scrub radius effect (and wider turning radius) wouldn't be conducive for the tight/twisty/wooded trails you have back there.
FWIW: 10mm wheel spacer up front + 1" BL + GY MT/R 285-75R18 = no rub on fenders. Also running two soft Timbren bump stops per front lower control arm for very nice bottom out control.
With the 12mm/.5" BL, 10mm wheel spacer and same tire as above I was, on big front suspension bottom out, getting a little tire to fender liner interference. That was the reason I went to 1" BL which has eliminated the interference. And no rear of front tire interference...and I'm running about 3.75 degrees of caster.
Did you fold down the body seam on the back side of the front fender well?
FWIW: 10mm wheel spacer up front + 1" BL + GY MT/R 285-75R18 = no rub on fenders. Also running two soft Timbren bump stops per front lower control arm for very nice bottom out control.
With the 12mm/.5" BL, 10mm wheel spacer and same tire as above I was, on big front suspension bottom out, getting a little tire to fender liner interference. That was the reason I went to 1" BL which has eliminated the interference. And no rear of front tire interference...and I'm running about 3.75 degrees of caster.
Did you fold down the body seam on the back side of the front fender well?
Goal was four fold: 1) push tires further out so that they make sideways contact before the body does (i.e., body protection, but has not yet been tested) 2) increased stability at speed (this was a very noticeable improvement) 3) Looks (it does look a lot better
) 4) Eliminate tire to frame rubbing (which it has also been achieved)(5th theoretical benefit I was excited about was the ability to run chains if needed. I do live in the snow bel.t)
I did fold down the body seam on the back of the fron fender well. That had to be done even without the spacers.
I'm tempted to follow suit with what you're running above (given we run the same tire, I feel more confident that your setup would also work for me.) Do you have 1" kits for sale (if so, do they include extended bolts)? Have you been 100% happy with the 1" BL (i.e., any downsides moving from the 12mm)?
No regrets with the 1" body lift...other than the visual of an extra 1" gap between the front and rear bumpers and the fenders/body (I built my own sliders for the BL). However I'm not really sure you'll have enough front fender lip clearance running 1.25" spacers and a 1" BL. I'm running 10mm wheel spacers so the GY MT/R tread blocks sit mostly inside the fender lip...
Yes...the one benefit I did appreciate from running my then 1" front wheel spacer adapters was the enhanced highway speed stability. But for me there were too many other negative performance issues with even the 1" spacers...
The install isn't difficult but it does take some time (of course this is somewhat ambiguous since I don't know your mechanical skill level...). I offer three different versions of the kit depending upon how much you want to do/source on your own. The most complete kit contains the longer bolts and the modded radiator brackets. You, since you live in PA and probably been around salted winter roads, will probably need to replace some of your existing body mount bolts and nuts...check them.
I didn't have to clearance the firewall hole for the steering shaft...but one other reported back he had to; seems to be some tolerance variances on 100's. I didn't extend the two body mount bolts located under the rear/3rd seat area. Somebody posted a thread earlier this year about how to do that. For whatever reason these two locations do not show up on Toyota's body mount location diagram
. One of these days I'll pull my AO drawers out and inspect them.
Yes...the one benefit I did appreciate from running my then 1" front wheel spacer adapters was the enhanced highway speed stability. But for me there were too many other negative performance issues with even the 1" spacers...
The install isn't difficult but it does take some time (of course this is somewhat ambiguous since I don't know your mechanical skill level...). I offer three different versions of the kit depending upon how much you want to do/source on your own. The most complete kit contains the longer bolts and the modded radiator brackets. You, since you live in PA and probably been around salted winter roads, will probably need to replace some of your existing body mount bolts and nuts...check them.
I didn't have to clearance the firewall hole for the steering shaft...but one other reported back he had to; seems to be some tolerance variances on 100's. I didn't extend the two body mount bolts located under the rear/3rd seat area. Somebody posted a thread earlier this year about how to do that. For whatever reason these two locations do not show up on Toyota's body mount location diagram
. One of these days I'll pull my AO drawers out and inspect them.- Thread starter
- #50
Sounds like others have been guiding you.... But just to follow up. I still need to install the 10mm spacers in the front. After a lot of work (new steering rack, etc) and more that is in progress, I was finally able to get things to not rub without any spacers. It has been a royal pain.... but I am hopeful everything will work out soon. I am planing to reboot my lower ball joints or replace if needed very soon and will install the 10mm spacers in the front then. I do not expect any issues when I do. Well let me rephrase that... Two weeks ago running about 60 mph on some dirt roads, I did bottom out a couple of times and hear some slight rub. I am guessing it was at the top of the fender. Without a body lift, I am not sure I could avoid it. I think I already pointed out I am only running a 33" tire (BFG 295/75R/16's).
I have come to believe that a lot of my issues are caused by several issues. All of which surfaced after I started rebuilding the entire underside last year. And, some of which are being magnified by the TC UCA's. One thing is for sure.... If I cant get to a happy medium before long.... I will be ripping the TC UCA's out and going back to the OEM UCA's..... Unless someone comes out with a better design (SpressoFab).
Thanks for the additional insights.
No experience with existing UCA options (other than OEM), but very interested in a SpressoFab solution--I have faith in the maker
No experience with existing UCA options (other than OEM), but very interested in a SpressoFab solution--I have faith in the maker