I wanted to ask that same question but knew I would be lynched for a question that is asked every few days. I knew I would get the "Just use the search tool!!!" answer. Here is my issue. Every one of those threads INCLUDING the sticky thread up top talk about the 16" rims. I have the 18" rims. So I'm still not sure what I can run. Right now I'm looking at a 295/65/18 or a 285/70/18. If it doesn't fit then I will just have to go taller on the suspension or trim a bit of the front bumper. It will eventually come off anyways for a winch bumper.
AHC Lift With Full Range
- Thread starter xirforever
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You can fit both of those tires just fine stock. Suspension lift doesn't make a difference in this regard as it doesn't change the stroke that the tire will travel through at its extremes, just the neutral point.
With 35's, unless you're going with extreme width which invites different issues, the first point of contact is the pinch weld at the rear of the front tire well. Easily solved by folding/beating it back.
With a 1/2" body lift, there shouldn't be any clearance issues up to 35's.
With 35's, unless you're going with extreme width which invites different issues, the first point of contact is the pinch weld at the rear of the front tire well. Easily solved by folding/beating it back.
With a 1/2" body lift, there shouldn't be any clearance issues up to 35's.
^ Restated, you can run a 35" tire by beating back the pinch welds. Suspension lift has nothing to do with it.
The tire travels through the same extremes of the suspension stroke lift or not. If if rubs at the extremes, it may rub less day to day with a suspension lift. But at full compression, lift or not, it will still rub.
Note that some 35" tires are more aggressive in width and/or tread so your clearance may vary. 1/2" body lift is the ticket.
The tire travels through the same extremes of the suspension stroke lift or not. If if rubs at the extremes, it may rub less day to day with a suspension lift. But at full compression, lift or not, it will still rub.
Note that some 35" tires are more aggressive in width and/or tread so your clearance may vary. 1/2" body lift is the ticket.
Got it. I'm still learning with this IFS front end. I went front two old broncos, to 4 Jeeps, to 2 80 series and they all had straight axle front ends. I need to change my way of thinking when it comes to lifts and suspension geometry.
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- #46
Unless you do option 2 where you do the 2" suspension lift and adjust your bump stops accordingly, that would restrict the travel into the wheel well. Ill be jacking up my truck to see if the a-arm is allowed to travel down another two inches, will it run into the shock body like suggested earlier. I will try to take some pictures and post later.
- Thread starter
- #47
Well I got an opportunity tonight to look into things. I have a good idea on how I'd like to make the shock extension but I feel very discouraged after looking into the maximum droop available. I removed the shock bolt to see how far it would be until the A-Arm would hit the shock body or until something else would cause a problem. I only got about 1/2" down until I think the sway bar limited my mobility. I could have removed it easily but I didnt see much point; with only a 1/2" extra droop the a-arm moved significantly closer to the shock body, probably because it is already at an angle where it starts to travel back towards the vehicle body instead of down and towards the ground. I didn't see a point to continue this venture because I could maybe fit one finger between the a-arm and the shock body, and before I removed the shock bolt i could fit maybe two fingers. Super disappointing. Is there any way around this geometry issue? Any helpful aftermarket control arms?
It seems like the best course of action is perhaps to do an option 1 with maybe a small body lift. I just really like my wheel well covers in the front and I think I'll lose them if I do a body lift.
Fully extended with shock still bolted to control arm:
Shock bolt removed from control arm and traveled about .5" and the shock bolt hole and about .75" at the hub.
Overall Length of shock
It seems like the best course of action is perhaps to do an option 1 with maybe a small body lift. I just really like my wheel well covers in the front and I think I'll lose them if I do a body lift.
Fully extended with shock still bolted to control arm:
Shock bolt removed from control arm and traveled about .5" and the shock bolt hole and about .75" at the hub.
Overall Length of shock
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just got confirmation about my ride height. my buddy has a stock FJ. i pulled up next to him and we compared in the driveway. he wanted a 100 too at one point. ironically we have the same size tire and wheel. We got the tape measure out. When i got my suspension at full ride height, i am actually ~ 2 inches higher.. and basically the same wheel base.. i see it... still cant believe it..
I may have misunderstood but is this not a viable option.......?
Fit the 40mm extension brackets posted by Hoser to gain a 1.5" lift whilst retaining the AHC in its stock N position. Couple that with a very mild 0.5" AHC lift by adjusting the T-bars (ensuring AHC pressures are within spec) and adjusting the height sensors and you have a 2" lift. Then fit a diff-drop to sort the CV angles, some anti-roll bar spacers and possibly some UCAs (if indicated...). Wouldn't this effectively be a 2" AHC lift effectively retaining full AHC functionality and factory droop?
Fit the 40mm extension brackets posted by Hoser to gain a 1.5" lift whilst retaining the AHC in its stock N position. Couple that with a very mild 0.5" AHC lift by adjusting the T-bars (ensuring AHC pressures are within spec) and adjusting the height sensors and you have a 2" lift. Then fit a diff-drop to sort the CV angles, some anti-roll bar spacers and possibly some UCAs (if indicated...). Wouldn't this effectively be a 2" AHC lift effectively retaining full AHC functionality and factory droop?
Just in case this is helpful, I've outlined my experience with different tire sizes on 18" rims and lifts with AHC:
100 Series Tire Sizes - Google Sheets
100 Series Tire Sizes - Google Sheets
Anyone have some detailed photos of their spacer install? For the front brackets, I'm having an issue with the heavy sleeve spacers. Once the bracket is in place, the sleeve spacer is about 1/4 too long to fit inside the bracket. I'm guessing it's supposed to keep the bolt from crushing the brackets when tightened correct? Anyone with insight, I need some of it
I had the same issue. Gotta grind down the spacer about 1/8". More pics in my AHC lift thread.Anyone have some detailed photos of their spacer install? For the front brackets, I'm having an issue with the heavy sleeve spacers. Once the bracket is in place, the sleeve spacer is about 1/4 too long to fit inside the bracket. I'm guessing it's supposed to keep the bolt from crushing the brackets when tightened correct? Anyone with insight, I need some of it
Thanks DD, I emailed David that sells them, he's getting with the guy that makes them. I'll report back what they say.
Also, I didn't wait for a response. I'm guessing that is a replacement sleeve for the one in the bottom of the shock? anyway, i ground it down, and used some washers to fill the gap between the shock sleeve and the lift block. One side done