AHC Lift With Full Range

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The tech steam is available all over. I got mine from amazon. I don't know if there are different software kits out there, but the only software i found, didn't play nice with windows 7 and newer. I could have done a dual boot, but ultimately after wasting too much time on getting the system to work I bought a cheap xp laptop off cl. With xp it was no muss, no fuss.

There is also a Bluetooth capable ODB2 dongle that u can read pressures and such from. As I understand it, the Bluetooth can only read, not write to the comoute. For example with the tech stream i edited the ecu so that my steering wheel doesn't move when I put/pull the key from the ignition. I'm glad I can to do these things, but I'll probably get the Bluetooth kit for times I just need to read only, like when dialing in the AHC.
 
ylexot said:
The tech steam is available all over. I got mine from amazon. I don't know if there are different software kits out there, but the only software i found, didn't play nice with windows 7 and newer. I could have done a dual boot, but ultimately after wasting too much time on getting the system to work I bought a cheap xp laptop off cl. With xp it was no muss, no fuss.

There is also a Bluetooth capable ODB2 dongle that u can read pressures and such from. As I understand it, the Bluetooth can only read, not write to the comoute. For example with the tech stream i edited the ecu so that my steering wheel doesn't move when I put/pull the key from the ignition. I'm glad I can to do these things, but I'll probably get the Bluetooth kit for times I just need to read only, like when dialing in the AHC.
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I'd love to see some info on your Bluetooth dongle that can interface with the proprietary ECUs. Wireless OBD2 readers are a dime a dozen, but short of hooking up an air bridge from the vci to the TechStream running laptop I haven't seen anything that let's you wirelessly connect to the AHC ECU. Please post up what you've got on it.
 
@chicks, that's the one I bought.otN. Note the suggested bluetooth android doodad. I do not know that you can use it to read the ahhcpressures, but I thought I read of someone doing it. Maybe just wishful thinking. Paddo knows more than I on all things ahc and, I suspect, odb too.
 
ylexot said:
@chicks, that's the one I bought.otN. Note the suggested bluetooth android doodad. I do not know that you can use it to read the ahhcpressures, but I thought I read of someone doing it. Maybe just wishful thinking. Paddo knows more than I on all things ahc and, I suspect, odb too.
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so are you not sure if that one from Amazon will allow me to see/adjust the AHC? the only reason I would be buying it is for the AHC function. I already have a decent obd2 scanner.
 
Sorry, I'm extremely tired. That is the tech stream I used to read my ahc pressures. I'm not sure if there is a Bluetooth odb reader that can read the ahc data.
 
ylexot said:
Sorry, I'm extremely tired. That is the tech stream I used to read my ahc pressures. I'm not sure if there is a Bluetooth odb reader that can read the ahc data.
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Ok .thank you for the clarification. AHC lift using the tech stream will be one of my very first mods.
 
hoser said:
I sourced the extension brackets from Japan many years ago. There are several companies that offer them, these were manufactured by Zeal. You can try asking @sonk76 , as he purchased them more recently from Japan4x4. The 80 series springs and 30mm spacers were to accommodate the extra weight. There are many options to get the desired ride height/AHC pressure. (non-AHC 100 springs, LC80 springs---two DS or two PS, as they are different in height, 10, 20 & 30mm spring spacers.)

60mm Rear Brackets (shows 4, only 2 needed) 5000 Yen/pr:

View attachment 1055127

40mm Front Brackets, 6000 Yen/pr:

View attachment 1055128
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These seem like the ticket here! You don't recommend running them on the front because of geometry issues, but that seems like an issue that would not be unique to AHC trucks. Do people with the 2.5" OME lift have the same issues?
 
bhicks said:
Ok .thank you for the clarification. AHC lift using the tech stream will be one of my very first mods.
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Just to be perfectly clear, Tech Stream just lets you read the pressure levels of the AHC system. You can't make any adjustments to it with the software.

Cranking the t-bars on an AHC vehicle let's you adjust lean (if the drivers side is starting to sag a bit) and adjust the pressure levels (measured through techstream). It does not allow you to adjust the height of the front end like on a non-AHC truck.
 
TexasCrane said:
Just to be perfectly clear, Tech Stream just lets you read the pressure levels of the AHC system. You can't make any adjustments to it with the software.

Cranking the t-bars on an AHC vehicle let's you adjust lean (if the drivers side is starting to sag a bit) and adjust the pressure levels (measured through techstream). It does not allow you to adjust the height of the front end like on a non-AHC truck.
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Thank you for the clarification. That should be fine. Are there pre set pressure numbers I should be trying to adjust to when adjusting the torsion bars? Is the tech stream a live feed so I will see the numbers move on the screen as I adjust the torsion bars?
 
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Yes there are pressure values you should be adjusting to; no Techstream does not dynamically populate the relevant data fields as you adjust torsion bar loading. Did you get the chance to read the Toyota AHC technical description I emailed several weeks ago? That info pack and MUDs search function, which will also bring up numerous AHC maintenance/diagnostic PDFs, will help you greatly.
 
Aparently I need to go back through that info you sent me and read it much closer. Thanks for sending me that stuff.
 
xirforever said:
These seem like the ticket here! You don't recommend running them on the front because of geometry issues, but that seems like an issue that would not be unique to AHC trucks. Do people with the 2.5" OME lift have the same issues?
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The front AHC shocks/dampers have roughly the same extended and compressed dimensions as the standard 2.5" lift OME 6000 shocks. To use a longer shock, you'll want aftermarket UCA's otherwise the OE UCA can make contact with the shock body on full extension.
 
hoser said:
The front AHC shocks/dampers have roughly the same extended and compressed dimensions as the standard 2.5" lift OME 6000 shocks. To use a longer shock, you'll want aftermarket UCA's otherwise the OE UCA can make contact with the shock body on full extension.
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It sounds like the OME 6000 shocks and the AHC shocks have the same extended length and that they are longer than standard stock shocks. So that would mean that AHC vehicles have farther travel than non-AHC trucks, right?

If this is true, does anybody know what the shock length differences are between stock and AHC?
 
CreeperSleeper said:
Another option would be to level the front out a bit and do a 1" body lift...
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This option #3 would be my preference rather than a straight suspension lift. Actually, I would do a combination of suspension, body, and tire lift.

An aggressive suspension lift is for the old school standard suspension guys. You have AHC, which can already dynamically fully lift on demand for clearance. No strong reason to statically lift it higher. Few considerations:
1) Statically putting it in the upper part of the suspension stroke is not ideal from a suspension geometry standpoint. The suspension is far more effective around its designed neutral point from a cornering, handling, braking, etc. standpoint. Putting it statically higher into its stroke makes for an ill handling suspension no matter what the old school lift guys tell you.
2) More suspension lift doesn't gain you more suspension stroke as discussed above. If you've ever driven around with AHC in H, you'll notice there's not a lot of droop. Do it over a smooth parking lot over speed bumps, and you can actually hear/tell the suspension top out. If you put the 'N' neutral point statically higher in the stroke, H will be less useful at it will be in full max extension.

My preference for a 2-3" total lift:
1) Mild 1/2" sensor lift - add 30mm spring spacers in the rear and cranking the front to get the correct neutral pressures. This gets me more compression stroke for harder off road running. 30mm to put the neutral pressures at the lowest of the factory AHC pressure range and to compensate for tired springs to allow AHC to support more load before falling back on the spring.
2) 1/2" body lift - mild to minimize steering yoke, brake line, A/C line stress. And enough for me to remount F/R bumpers and fan shroud w/o issue.
3) 1-2" tire lift with 33-35" tires - the lift that really counts for more traction and clearance. You'll be amazed by the handling of what correct suspension geometry with large tires has over mild tires with terrible lifted suspension geometry.

Kicker for 5" total lift
4) Dynamic 2" more lift on demand with AHC! Now that's how AHC separates itself from the old school guys. With no bad CV joint concerns or ill handling to worry about or to compromise with. Oh, and no suspension sag with a full load in the trunk cancelling out any static lift, cause AHC manhandled it with constant height performance.
 
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that was one hell of a description. Good job.
 
I have put together a little comparison chart of the options so far mentioned, and I added a 4th option to include body lift. I organized it by function, 1 being street concerns, 2 being off-road concerns.

I have read that 33" is the safest option for a factory height vehicle (hub to fender) and any lift gains under function 2 will not help with rubbing because it does not affect the amount the suspension can compress (sorta, it seemed like the most logical way to organize the information).


Option Comparison Chart.webp
 
TeCKis300 said:
This option #3 would be my preference rather than a straight suspension lift. Actually, I would do a combination of suspension, body, and tire lift.
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This is pretty much the conclusion I have come to as well. I think I'm going to lift the front a bit once I get the new bumper on to compensate for the weight, then I will adjust the sensors to put everything into spec, just with less "stink bug". After that will be a 1" body lift to get everything to look and fit right with my 285's. Then I will run the AHC for as long as I can. If and when it goes out, I will do a static lift kit to replace it, re-gear, and run 35's.
 
TeCKis300 said:
3) 1-2" tire lift with 33-35" tires - the lift that really counts for more traction and clearance. You'll be amazed by the handling of what correct suspension geometry with large tires has over mild tires with terrible lifted suspension geometry.

.
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Since there is so much win and I think the OP won't mind(sorry in advance),

It also bring up question... What is the biggest tire you can fit with out modifications
 
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