AHC and aftermarket rear springs and torsion bars combo (2 Viewers)

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THIS IS GREAT!!!

Thanks so much for the great info.

K, so no diff drop, and no UCA. Maybe I keep them around for the future (unlikely, as I really like the AHC), or try and re-sell, or return for a partial credit maybe.

I have Black Rhino wheels, with some aggressive offset, so my wheels are a smidge proud of the fenders...with a decent bump, enough to hit the stops, the sidewall can just barely kiss the fender. The sensor lift would be like 1/4-1/2" just to prevent that tiny interference. The picture is in Low.

Thanks so much for writing this all out, really helpful.

Got the front torsions swapped over to my sway away's, was wicked easy since the rig is so clean..I didn't even need to hammer off the receiver sockets, was able to wiggle off by hand. Now to log back in, and set the pre-load to get my pressure's normal..once the rear springs/spacer go in tmrw.

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Ah! That would be a good reason to do a little sensor lift or extend the bumpstops. Any pictures of the wheel/tire combo? I'm intrigued.
 
Ah! That would be a good reason to do a little sensor lift or extend the bumpstops. Any pictures of the wheel/tire combo? I'm intrigued.
Black Rhino Armory 18x9.5 6 offset 5.5 backspacing
Maxxis Razr MT-772 123Q 10/e LT275/70R18 so 33.4" overall diameter


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Got the sway-away tb's in, and the ironman spacer + king coils in back.. was a breeze...until I was trying to re-install my rear tire, and it slipped and crushed my finger between the rim and stupid dust shield.. cut right through my nail, real gusher.

But, alas. Until I get my steel back from powder coaters, she's too stiff to hit L for the time being... 😂😂😂... so it no longer fits in the garage. ( i needed low to clear the door header).

Gives me time to let my finger heal.

I did spray the entire underside with fluid-film before attempting my dismemberment, that stuff is great. The metal around the TB anchor sockets was factory mint, not even a spec of dirt, going to try and keep it clean and rust free as possible.
 
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With that offset you shouldn’t have contact with ucas, as stock wheels with wider tires can.
With that offset I would highly suggest extending bump stops to save your fenders. The only time mine used to scrape would be on the freeway when ahc lowers ride height and then if I hit a dip it would scrape the fender liner. I added timbren bump stops and no longer have that issue.
 
With that offset you shouldn’t have contact with ucas, as stock wheels with wider tires can.
With that offset I would highly suggest extending bump stops to save your fenders. The only time mine used to scrape would be on the freeway when ahc lowers ride height and then if I hit a dip it would scrape the fender liner. I added timbren bump stops and no longer have that issue.
nice, ok I will look into those.. I could even easily add a disc of aluminum to shim it up a bit.
 
update.

added the Timbren front bump stops, did the job.j

But, new question.

Since I added the spacers and coils in the rear...should I not also spacer the shocks? Should I be concerned about damaging them on full droop / articulation?
 
Bump for attention!

I was just about to ask this question again, and remembered I had a thread going already.

So same question as above;

“Since I added 30mm spacers, is rear shock mount extensions a good move? To protect damage at full droop?”
 
I have about an 1.5” AHC lift. I added the “shock” spacers so that the system would be closer to normal after the lift. I don’t think they are necessary just because you added spacers to the springs. They should be added if you actually lift the vehicle with the sensors. The spacers on the spring result in more compression at the given height. Therefore, it eases the amount of pressure the system needs to hold that height. So, at stock height (or +.5”) they would be unnecessary. At least that’s how I understand it. I could be wrong.

For what it’s worth, I really like having the extra 1.5”. I don’t have to remember to hit the button. I don’t have to worry about dropping lower as I’m bombing down rocky roads. And I can still go 2” higher than that when I do hit the button for sections that I know I’ll scrape my belly skids. I found that, for the majority of the places I drive off road, I wanted it in high mode. So, now I’m (more or less) in high all the time and once in a while, I get higher. I don’t give a crap about what it looks like.

I have aftermarket UCAs so that alignment works right. I don’t have a diff drop. But, I do have the part time conversion. So on any highway miles, my front diff isn’t even turning.

I also have a ton of weight. The kings and spacers weren’t cutting it. So I just now replaced them with used oem non-ahc springs and I’m back in spec.
If anyone is interested in the kings and spacers, hit me up! I’ll put an ad in the classifieds when I have some time.
 
Bump for attention!

I was just about to ask this question again, and remembered I had a thread going already.

So same question as above;

“Since I added 30mm spacers, is rear shock mount extensions a good move? To protect damage at full droop?”
Without reading the entire thread, unless you have a sensor lift you do not need to add shock spacers due to adding spring spacers. Your 30mm spring spacers function to increase spring force, reducing hydraulic pressure in AHC. Droop is not changed.
 
Thanks @suprarx7nut ! Some background context and additional updates - somebody from King Springworks did get back to me confirming all I need to do is ensure the product code is KTRS-79 and they are compatible with the 2007 regardless of what the vendor is saying.

The context:
I've just added steel front & rear bumpers, and have a roof rack on the way. Call it 300 pounds of permanent extra weight. My next step will be to do the Techstream AHC diagnostics to see how things are looking height & pressure-wise. If pressures are high, I'll likely add King or LC springs and crank the torsion bar as necessary to get them to ideal levels. Will likely do the AHC speed sensor override switch (just so I can drive ever-so-slightly faster than 20mph on the beach in High).

Although I'd love to do some AHC lift work, I'm scared things could get messed up down there eventually and become very expensive to remediate. A valuable but overwhelming amount of info and perspectives in these threads about AHC lifts (e.g. sway-a-way bars / links / AHC shock spacers / rear dif drop / new torsion bars / spring spacers etc etc etc).
 
Adjusting the sensors allows the system to work as intended with correct alignment, just higher up. It’s a much better option and it’s free.
 
Ok following up with one additional question as I’m a week away from swapping the King springs in!

@suprarx7nut ‘s AHC guide sheet and YouTube video have been like the Bible to me. My front sensor pressure was reading at 8.4 and rear at 8.2. If King springs reduce pressure by ~3Mpa, won’t the resulting pressure (complimented by potential torsion bar adjustments) be significantly below the target pressure of ~6.5?

I also purchased 15mm spring spacers from IronMan, which I guess I shoudlnt install (since they further reduce pressures)? I’m torn, because a minor lift from the spacers, King springs & sensor adjustments would definitely be nice!
 
Ok following up with one additional question as I’m a week away from swapping the King springs in!

@suprarx7nut ‘s AHC guide sheet and YouTube video have been like the Bible to me. My front sensor pressure was reading at 8.4 and rear at 8.2. If King springs reduce pressure by ~3Mpa, won’t the resulting pressure (complimented by potential torsion bar adjustments) be significantly below the target pressure of ~6.5?

I also purchased 15mm spring spacers from IronMan, which I guess I shoudlnt install (since they further reduce pressures)? I’m torn, because a minor lift from the spacers, King springs & sensor adjustments would definitely be nice!
If you truly go under the rear pressure specs from Kings alone, when you sensor lift it that will increase the force from the hydraulic system to compensate for the lift. So, you could get back in spec.
 
I would imagine the biggest symptom would be lack of damping, so not a risk just poor ride comfort.
Thanks, that’s good to know. Worst case scenario, what is the risk of the sensor pressures being too low?

Yup, my understanding is that you'd be a little "oversprung" and damping wouldn't quite be as plush as you might want.

I would swap in the Kings and then remeasure. It's not exactly 3.0 for all scenarios. You can do a little sensor lift in the rear to pull those pressures back up if desired.

Remember though: lift is the enemy of handling. I always want as little lift as required.
 

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