aftermarket window regs.

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Man, at that price, what's there to lose!

well I went and ordered one for the front right (PS) as I am prepping that door for painting. Then will do the DS front door.

Those 2 doors and the rear hatch (down to metal) and the rear tailgate will be my first Monstaliner paint targets. I have a quart of the paint and don't know how far it will go, so I want enough areas to paint to consume the quart before the mixed paint and catylst expire.


So in the process I want to refresh the various subsystems in the doors in the process.
I have applied Sil-Glyde on the window channels and other rubber parts. Will put in white grease, etc, etc

The only rust on the doors is along the bottom seam. I don't want to tear anything apart (ie cut metal) nor do any welding at this point. Sooooooooo, I have opened the bottom seal a bit, scratched out the rust particles, put Metal Blaster on it and will put Rust Bullet down along the entire bottom seam inside and out.

Before the 1st coat dries I will compress the seam back together, let dry, then apply 2nd coat followed by the Shell black 3rd coat. The bottom 4 inches of the door will have Rust Bullet on it, outside and in. It might also provide some sound deadening. Will also be installing Cruiser-C-R-A-P inside the door as I still have some of that left.

The door might rot later (much later than if I do nothing), but I see how easy it is to work on these doors. It used to be a black box to me. I can fix doors later.

Window comes out nice, regulator comes out easy, Metal Blasted the rust spots (converter) and it will work nicely for me.


It is a great job to do in the basement when it is 0 degress F outside

dougbert
 
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I have used them on my 40s and 60s with good success
 
I went all out and got one from the dealer after 2 used that lasted for awhile.
 
Got the Dorman front window regulator and it looks good.

EDITED with Correction: 749-821 is the RIGHT FRONT regulator. I installed it and it works fine

I ordered: http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=749-821&x=0&y=0

The LEFT FRONT IS:
http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=749-820&x=0&y=0

Pics of old and new below: Spring faced up, short brace on top, long brace (connects to window) on bottom

dougbert

2014-01-11_13-03-56_70.webp


2014-01-11_13-04-01_136.webp


2014-01-11_13-04-18_66.webp


2014-01-11_13-04-25_117.webp
 
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How's the quality compared to the OE regulator ?
 
How's the quality compared to the OE regulator ?

the pics pretty well cover it, the appearance looks good, the joints are tight, the "runners" seem stronger since they do not have lengthwise "holes" if you will.

How will they last and now smooth operation? After installation I will post info. Have to use them for some time for repeated up/down cycles, and return and report later. They are in better condition than the old ones for sure.

the "small gear" meshes well (need to lube it prior to installation), again it looks good.

part and shipping: $52

dougbert
 
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Cool. Thanks.
 
I have just fitted a new after market front drivers door window regulator at $55.00 Very pleased with the quality and operation. Happy to recommend them :-)

Cheers
 
I have just fitted a new after market front drivers door window regulator at $55.00 Very pleased with the quality and operation. Happy to recommend them :-)

Cheers

for completeness: Was it a Dorman? If not, which one was it and a link source for it?

thx
 
if you look back at the beginning of my build I got the Dorman replacement for the driverside as mine was done. Here we are about a year later and the thing still works great. Craftsmanship was very good and a little grease on the rails to ensure things kept moving smoothly.

I got mine from Ebay but dont remember the part number.
 
I replaced my front driver-side regulator with dorman 749-820 over a year ago after the teeth stripped on my original. Works great. IRC, on install orients a bit differently from OEM but ends up working properly. Careful with your fingers when you install, it acts like a big pair of scissors, especially when weighted with the glass.
 
Toyota of Santa Cruz; $154.96. 2 years ago if I remember right.
 
Okay just got my Dorman 749-820 regulator below in pic 1

pic 1 is the LEFT Front

bottom is old RIGHT front


dougbert

2014-01-22_10-13-50_564.webp


2014-01-22_10-13-58_268.webp
 
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Anyone know the cost of an OEM regulator off the top of their head...for comparison?
REGULATOR LEFT (69820-90A02)
Sale Price: $98.53
List Price: $137.15
You Save: $38.62
Part Number : 69820-90A02
Part #69820-90A02 replaces: 69820-90A00
 
Picked up the Dorman from Partsgeek.com for the DS of my 60. Proper part for the proper side. Adjusted right. Lubed everything inside the door, except the crank which is filled with a bearing/joint type grease, with Toyota white lithium spray (One of the better $8 I've spent.) and the whole door operates like new, as in smoother than most of the new junk I've opened/operated the doors of. Also, highly recommend the Sil-Glyde as Norsk previously mentioned for all rubber and glass tracks. My window rolls up or down, single-handedly, when I want it to. Smooth, clean, and sweet @ any speed. What more could I ask for @ <$53 shipped. Can't speak directly to the quality of the bearings inside the crank or center pivot but there is no obvious play in the unit, at all. And, it's made in Taiwan, which for most quality indications is a plus.

I am still trying to stop the habit of grabbing the glass to raise it. Soon.

C
 

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