aftermarket resistors for 24v cluster

[fatdiesel]

After cleaning and testing my gauges and still no luck on getting the temp and fuel gauges to work, i decided to dig deeper on MUD and found that i have no resistor on the back of my instrument cluster. ( this is for a 24v BJ41) Toyota part# 83145P-60010..no longer available! I want to start over with this piece, but have questions on the right part. More research shows the resistor i need is 24v>12v 30..or a 30ohm 12 watt resistor. I have a few questions on which one to get though..i see inductive and just the plain resistors. I found one for a Hyster forklift from stiffler surplus HY 020313 that may fit the bill. would this one work?? The Mills brand also has these but are non inductive and look different. I just wanted to get this thread out there and finally find a NLA part that we could all use. I tried to post a link, but couldnt...sorry.

 

[fatdiesel]

this is a pic of the Hyster resistor. I dont see any metal arms coming out of the side for a connection?? (stiffler surplus)

This is the Mills resistor, but states its non-inductive. Way cheaper than the Hyster (OEM) (parts-express)

 

[bj40green]

Hi Fatdiesel,

The Hyster resistor is laying with his legs to the other side. Don't worry, they are still there,
The Mills resistor will perfectly do the job. It's a wire wound type resistor.
Non-inductive means it has no side effects to act as a coil. This is only important in AC (Alternating Current) situations. You're dealing with DC (Direct Current) so no problem here.

Buy it, and you're good to go!

Rudi

 

[bj40green]

Oh, and by the way,

Make it looks like the one in the pic and leave some space (6mm / 1/4") between the back of the cluster and the (dropper) resistor so the air can flow around it.



This one has the "legs" also on the other side like the Hyster.

Good luck,

Rudi

 

[akifjanjua]

To avoid the heating issue.. get a larger wattage resistor.. a 25Watt or 30Watt would be more safe

 

[bj40green]

I think Akif is right. It makes sense that the 20H stands for 20Watt.

This is a pic of the OEM dropper / resistor 83145-60010.

EDIT: I just Googled for "MICRON" and found out that:
20 stands for: 20 Watt
H stands for: Lug Terminal
30Ω stands for resistance value
J stands for: +/- 5% tolerance

You can find it here http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/FR.1.pdf on page 5

Rudi

 

[akifjanjua]

Good work Rudi..

 

[fatdiesel]

resistor

Yes...good work Rudi! So, i can go slightly up in wattage but the 30 ohms must remain the same..correct?? I did find a 30 ohm 25 watt..the square plastic box type like the factory one.

 

[akifjanjua]

Yup thats the one you need.. use good heat shrink sleeves to prevent short circuiting with body parts.

 

[TLC BJ44V]

I want to start off by first saying thank you to all of you for all the great details and parts information listed here that I found today and read through. I recently purchased a 1981 BJ44 and am beginning to take apart the instrument cluster to clean it and replace bulbs. Upon close inspection I noticed the ceramic resistor is cracked / chipped in one corner and fortunately the piece missing was found which reads "Micron" (20H, 30Ohm J, Micron y).

Fatdiesel, I'm wondering you made out with the replacement, which manufacturer, part # and wattage you went with and if you took any additional pics when you did this back in 2011 that you may still have.

Today I submitted a parts request to Amayama Trading Co. for a Toyota part #8314560010 and spoke with eforklifts regarding the Hyster part #0203132 to get pricing and availability.

Any follow up on this would be appreciated,

Kyle

 

[bj40green]

Hi Kyle,
That Toyota dropper resistor 83145-60010 doesn't exist any more.
Search for an electronics part shop and ask for a power resistor 30 ohm / 20 Watt and see what they have.
It must be 30 ohm, not more not less. Minimum is 20 Watt. More is no problem but will be bigger.
Here are a few examples of power resistors: https://www.google.com/search?q=pow...4ID4DA&ved=0CFkQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=649#imgdii=_

Rudi

 

[mocha0923]

resistor

Yes...good work Rudi! So, i can go slightly up in wattage but the 30 ohms must remain the same..correct?? I did find a 30 ohm 25 watt..the square plastic box type like the factory one.

Would you mind providing the dropping resistor description you purchased for your cluster. I have old cluster and want to restore it. Thanks.

 

[El Gringo Loco]

After cleaning and testing my gauges and still no luck on getting the temp and fuel gauges to work, i decided to dig deeper on MUD and found that i have no resistor on the back of my instrument cluster. ( this is for a 24v BJ41) Toyota part# 83145P-60010..no longer available! I want to start over with this piece, but have questions on the right part. More research shows the resistor i need is 24v>12v 30..or a 30ohm 12 watt resistor. I have a few questions on which one to get though..i see inductive and just the plain resistors. I found one for a Hyster forklift from stiffler surplus HY 020313 that may fit the bill. would this one work?? The Mills brand also has these but are non inductive and look different. I just wanted to get this thread out there and finally find a NLA part that we could all use. I tried to post a link, but couldnt...sorry.

Thanks for the response and the information.

Chuck