Aftermarket Bumpers in Snowy (Salty) Enviornments

[Wisluggo]

I am finally narrowing my front bumper search for my 2019 LC; I want a no-cut option, which leaves me with Ironman, TJM T13, and Dissent. I also don't think this will be used for significant off-roading, but more to protect against deer strikes.

There is a significant difference in price, which I don't mind paying, but I live in northern WI where salt is used a lot in the winter. I see a few steel bumpers and most of them are quite rusty after a few seasons. For those who also live in salty environments (like Colorado), do you bite the bullet on more expensive steel add-ons, or do you think of armor as sacrificial and repair/repowder coat as needed?

 

[CharlieS]

I've only run an ARB and I was shocked at how quickly it rusted. I'm in Vt and they use lots of brine and salt on the roads.

 

[brasskey]

I am finally narrowing my front bumper search for my 2019 LC; I want a no-cut option, which leaves me with Ironman, TJM T13, and Dissent. I also don't think this will be used for significant off-roading, but more to protect against deer strikes.

There is a significant difference in price, which I don't mind paying, but I live in northern WI where salt is used a lot in the winter. I see a few steel bumpers and most of them are quite rusty after a few seasons. For those who also live in salty environments (like Colorado), do you bite the bullet on more expensive steel add-ons, or do you think of armor as sacrificial and repair/repowder coat as needed?

As with anything, take care of it and you'll be fine. I've had an ARB on one vehicle for over 10 years and had a TJM on my 2016 for 3 years with no problems. But, I'm quick to rinse off after snow storms to get rid of salt and polish bumpers once a year to protect from sun damage.

 

[unclemat]

If you live in the salt belt, you're really should look into a corrosion protection for the entire truck not just the steel armor.

Just use a solid oil based rustproofing and you'll be ok. I use Corrosion Free with great success. Previously used Fluid Film, same idea, but stinks. Corrosion Free also lasts longer. Also used Amsoil HDMP before but it's wax based so not as good. I recommend DIY, because the best product is useless if not applied diligently. Corrosion Free sells very nice sprayer kit. Pricey, but worth it.

For the bumper of course we are talking spraying the inside/backside. Otherwise keep washing it after salt storms and you should be fine.

FWIW, road salt should be completely banned (all kinds, there is no safe variant). It does not disappear, it accumulates in the environment forever affecting ground water, aquatic life and vegetation. So it follows it will be impossible to keep using it forever: we should stop now. However, probably humans are too stupid to not eradicate themselves in the name of convenience...

 

[KLF]

Also used Amsoil HDMP before but it's wax based so not as good.

I've used pretty much everything (except "Corrosion Free", need to try that one), and I find the Amsoil HDMP to be the best at staying on and protection. It's too expensive to coat the entire underside, so I just do critical things, like the infamous KDSS valve body, and my rear crossmember at the trailer hitch receiver. I like how it cures after a few days to a nice durable waxy coating that does not wash off (unlike Fluid Film). I've been squirting in strategic spots on my rear RLC bumper and it's really doing a great job.

My trailer hitch, not a spec of rust:

 

[300blk]

All my armor and frames are rusted on my 3 Toyotas from being in CO and WY. I used to sand and spray some of the surface crap, but I kind of got behind the cancer.

 

[Wisluggo]

My truck has full woolwax, but extra protection for the steel armor is a good plan

 

[unclemat]

I've used pretty much everything (except "Corrosion Free", need to try that one), and I find the Amsoil HDMP to be the best at staying on and protection. It's too expensive to coat the entire underside, so I just do critical things, like the infamous KDSS valve body, and my rear crossmember at the trailer hitch receiver. I like how it cures after a few days to a nice durable waxy coating that does not wash off (unlike Fluid Film). I've been squirting in strategic spots on my rear RLC bumper and it's really doing a great job.

My trailer hitch, not a spec of rust:
View attachment 2534068

I did use Amsoil on the entire underbody before on the Tacoma when I bought it 4 years ago - and it still is there in many areas - but the problem with it is it does not creep, nor it can be applied via a sprayer with long flexible wand, so it's not possible to cover inaccessible areas. Yes, it's quite durable and I still use it for spot applications like bolts on the transmission/transfer case where I don't want the oily mess Corrosion Free creates. I also use it on the inside of my winter steel wheels on the Tacoma.

Corrosion Free is more clingy and durable than Fluid Film in my experience (and it does not stink - this is big, I hated FF for that). I treated the 200 two years in the row after I bought it - I probably went overboard on the inside of the frame - as this summer it began to drip on the driveway on hot days. This fall I just applied mostly on the exterior of the frame in wheel wells, but frankly it was hardly necessary - pretty much everything was still nicely covered.

 

[KLF]

It's my experience that the odor from Fluid Film isn't too bad, and it's usually gone in a few days. I don't do the entire underside anymore, I have a place very near me that applies the NHOU product, I get it done once a year in the fall. I had it done near the end of October, and even today when I pull into the garage and get out of the truck I can still smell it. Maybe they got too much on the exhaust and it's still baking off.

Where do you buy the Corrosion Free stuff? Do you buy the gallon jugs, or the Rust Cure spray cans?

 

[unclemat]

Yeah, FF smell went away, but IIRC it took 1-2 weeks. I applied it inside doors and rocker panels on the Tacoma so that probably made it worse.

I buy Corrosion Free direct from the manufacturer. 5 gallon pail is the most economical way to go, that's what I got. Goes long way. Definitely not spray cans for the entire car application, they go out quickly. I ordered a case to have on hand for spot touch up applications when I don't want to fire up the compressor.

 

[NoClue]

Ironman owner here in the northeast. The bumper, and coverage plates all come with a clear coat so you can apply automotive wax to them which should provide protection against road salt. I go the extra distance and spray the inside with fluid film, because I'm OCD like that.

 

[vmfire]

I am building a 200 now to live in Upstate, NY. I ordered a Dissent aluminum rear bumper. I asked the team at Ed Martin Toyota to use Eck on all bolts and UHMW washers at all bolt heads and under washers to isolate metals. I also had the aluminum epoxy primed then color matched. I have an ARB bumper for the front which will have a full color match. Once that is done the entire underside will be cleaned with Krown salt eliminator, dried then coated in Waxoyl Hardwax and the rockers and hidden areas and inside the frames with Waxoyl 120-4 cavity protection.
It is great stuff. I have a couple Tundras with over 200k on them in NY and no rust.

Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.

The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.

www.waxoyl-usa.com

 

[4wheelgreg]

Everyone loves driving in the snow , unfortunately the greater northeast salts the crap out of the roads which not only corrodes your truck , your shocks , brake lines anything and everything exposed .
My daily driver is a 2015 Tacoma that was exposed to few winters that started to rust and I cleaned and Por-15 the entire chassis including the bottom of the floors .
I have too much money in the LC 200 to take out unless I really need life or death ... LOL ... To have the salt destroy my truck .
I even wash the ATV’s down after a good snow storm .
As others have said a good cosmoline coating , I would paint coat first then oil / cosmoline coat after . Still wash the underside after a good snowy salt event .
Por-15 has held up well , no signs of corrosion so far , I plan on doing the 200 the same way .

 

[Reckless]

I wasn't aware that aftermarket bumpers rust. Thanks for pointing that out as I have always wanted one but didn't want to sacrifice handling/nimbleness of my cruiser. I bought an ARB bumper once and ended up changing my mind and selling it. Have been itching for a TJM T13 bumper but wasn't sure how it handles 100+mph. I thought about getting one for my 100 to try first.

What is the general life of a bumper? 3 years? I have an aluminum push bar that is powder coated that has lasted 5 years. My bare aluminum push bar on my 100 has lasted 7 years. I have an aluminum rear chin bar that has lasted 5 years as well.

 

[rlynch356]

It really depends on the powder coat quality.. IMHO.. good last a long time, crap flakes and rusts... In Land Rover land we just galvanize everything (bulkheads, sliders, bumpers, etc), then you can Paint, powder coat or rhino line it, as you see fit with proper prep. Waxoyl is good, if applied when new and maintained (i.e. do it again if needed), but after being on the receiving end of hidden damage under waxoyl I am leary of anything already waxoyl'd (the fun one was literally a paper mâché patches on a defender, then they waxoyled it and shipped the truck to the US. Looked great.. but everything had to be redone).
Full disclosure if I lived in the salt, I'd probably waxoyl and cavity wax if I bought new.

But whatever you do, make sure every fastener is coated with anti-seize and either SS or zinc coated.

I'd love to see a 200 series with a Glavy bumper on it.

 

[NoClue]

It's my experience that the odor from Fluid Film isn't too bad, and it's usually gone in a few days. I don't do the entire underside anymore, I have a place very near me that applies the NHOU product, I get it done once a year in the fall. I had it done near the end of October, and even today when I pull into the garage and get out of the truck I can still smell it. Maybe they got too much on the exhaust and it's still baking off.

Where do you buy the Corrosion Free stuff? Do you buy the gallon jugs, or the Rust Cure spray cans?

You might find this video series interesting :

 

[pcut]

I had a Slee front and rear bumper on my 100 series for 8 years in Salt Lake. No rust at all.