After timing chain...won't start

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nautiq544

nautiq544

10 Year 15 Year
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Mar 23, 2006
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New to Seattle, WA
I just swapped out my timing chain, water pump, radiator, and thermostat on my 1984 22r.

After I get it all back together and try to start it, its hissing and blowing smoke/ gas mist out the carburetor. When it comes t setting the timing and Carb, I'm clueless. Any ideas on why is blowing crap out the top of the carb?
 
How sure are you that you put the timing chain back on right? Did the marks line up? Was the mark on the cam sprocket at about 11:30 witht he crank at TDC on the #1? If it's blowing out the carb it sounds like something is up with the valve timing.... I'd pull the vavle cover off, and turn the engine over by had till the timing marks on the crank pulley are at 0* the mark on the cam sprocket should be at 11:30 like I said... :D Go give that a check and get back to us.
 
If it is hissing and backfiring through the carb the valve timing is wrong. Essentialy your compressed gas/air mixture is getting pushed back though the intake valves.

Did the timing chain and/or guides break or jump time before you changed it? If so you probably bent most of the valves and they will need to be changed. It could have also damaged some pistons too.
 
If you pulled the distributor out you need to make sure that it is set correctly. The dis being far out of time can also cause a backfire throught the carb. Make sure you double check all your work. Also follow a manual for all of your timing marks and timing specs.
 
OK I pulled the valve cover off. The Cam shaft mark is at about 11:30ish and the Crank mark is @ 0.
Now this is a stupid question but doesn't that mean its at TDC? How else would I know the#1 is to the top?

I also assume that the shiny link that is supposed to be placed a the cam mark doesn't stay there...

Am I 180 degrees off?
 
nother update....(this is the first time I've done timing and distibutor stuff so thanks for the patience) THe metal tab on the rotor is pointing to like 5 oclock, should't that be pointing to 11ish?
 
Yes, with the timing mark on the pulley at 0* that means the #1 cylinder is at TDC, but the best way to find out if it's on the compression stroke is to hold your thumb over the spark plug hole, on the compression stroke... it'll blow air out past your thumb, on the exhaust it will not. I think if you turn the crank over a few times the shiny link in the chain should come back around to the dot on the cam sprocket... I can't remember where the rotor should be pointing, but at TDC on the compression stroke it should point to the #1 spark plug wire connector on the cap.

It does not sound like you're 180 out... but we'll see....
 
When you say pointing to the #1 Plug wire you mean inside the cap correct? and you mean the metal ended side of the rotor correct?
So to get that lined up I pulled the distibutor out and put it to 12 oclock and sliped it back in and it rotated to #1 plug in the cap. Should I try and start it again?
 
Crap...Does this make a difference?

On my chain there were 3 shiny links 2 together and one separate. My FSM was different than this one and said nothing about the shiny links. I assumed the single link matched up to the cam sprocket mark and the the double links matched up to the crank marks.

This FSM is in regards to a 22re, and says the 2 shiny marks should straddle the cam sprocket timing mark, and the single shiny link over the crank mark. (opposite what I did).

Does this make a difference.
 
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nautiq544 said:
When you say pointing to the #1 Plug wire you mean inside the cap correct? and you mean the metal ended side of the rotor correct?
So to get that lined up I pulled the distibutor out and put it to 12 oclock and sliped it back in and it rotated to #1 plug in the cap. Should I try and start it again?
Click to expand...

Yes, that all sounds good...
 
nautiq544 said:
Crap...Does this make a difference?

On my chain there were 3 shiny links 2 together and one separate. My FSM was different than this one and said nothing about the shiny links. I assumed the single link matched up to the cam sprocket mark and the the double links matched up to the crank marks.

This FSM is in regards to a 22re, and says the 2 shiny marks should straddle the cam sprocket timing mark, and the single shiny link over the crank mark. (opposite what I did).

Does this make a difference.
Click to expand...

That might make a difference.... I don't think so though. The marks are directly oposite of each other aren't they? One way to see if it's all good would be to go through the valve adjustment procedure. If the right valve rockers are loose at the right times... then everything should be fine.

I'd say give a try at firing it up. I think you might be there.

Now I have to take a shower and go to bed! :D Good luck!
 
did your chain brake or did you just replace it? the reason I ask is you may have a bent valve will do the same thing you are discribing
 
With the limited information provided, it appears that the chain is a minimum of two sprocket teeth off at the cam, based on your comment that you installed the chain with the two shiny links (timing links) at the crank instead of the cam.

Count the number of non-shiny links between timing links going from the single shiny link to the pair, and compare to the number of non-shiny links from the pair to the single. The difference between these numbers is the number of teeth your cam sprocket is off relative to the crank. And yes this matters greatly because it sounds like you are trying to run through the compression stroke with the intake valves still open, pushing your fuel/air mixture back out through the carb.

I don’t know if the 22R is a clearance engine, so I’m not sure if you’ve already caused valve damage. Maybe someone can chime in on this.
 
Old Blue said:
I don’t know if the 22R is a clearance engine, so I’m not sure if you’ve already caused valve damage. Maybe someone can chime in on this.
Click to expand...

No, The 22r is not a clearance engine and yes you can damage the valves and/or pistons by putting it together wrong. You really need to do a compression check after you get it assembled correctly.

If you need to remove the head to replace valves, the back two head bolts can be hard to remove without breaking them so be very careful.

If you did do damage you can probably get by without replacing pistons but they will have marks on them where the valves hit them and thus your combustion may not be as efficient as it should be.
 
If my crank moved out of TDC, after the chain was removed, how would I get things lined back up if I go back and take the chain off again?

Should I just rebuild it? 260K miles....This was in the pan:
 
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I can't tell by the pic but if thats metal in there then you need to consider a rebuild or try to find a low mileage used engine. I think a factory toyota engine with 100,xxx miles will last longer than a rebuild with zero.
 
I would say that a fair amount fine metal "dust" would be expected but not chunks of metal. Does it look like pieces of an oil ring? How many of those 260,xxx are your miles? Maybe it broke a timing chain sometime in its past and pieces of it fell down into the front of the pan.
 
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