Advice needed re birfs

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 5, 2004
Threads
19
Messages
96
I recently bought a 94 with about 88,000 miles on it. Records indicate that it was dealer-maintained throughout its life and the truck is in good shape.

When I bought it, I took it to an independent LC shop with a good reputation. The owner recommended that I replace the front axle knuckle seals because they were leaking. I bit the bullet and did so. He told me everything else checked out OK and that I got myself a solid truck.

Now, 3,000 miles later, I hear clicking from the left front axle when I make low speed left turns. There is no clicking from the right side when I do right turns.

From my research on the site, it seems pretty clear to me that the clicking sounds mean problems with my birfs.

My questions:

1) Would this have been something that my mechanic would/should have noticed when he did the axle seals?

2) Seems kinda strange that the clicking would have started so soon after the knuckle seals were replaced. Coincidence?

3) Does the left birf need to be replaced or can it be repaired in some way?

4) Should the other birf be replaced at the same time?

5) What should I expect to pay for the repair?

Any advice/guidance is greatly appreciated. Unfortunately, I cannot do the work myself as I have no tools, no garage and limited mechanical skills.

Thanks to all in advance for your help.
 
Problem is that the front end service may have been done a little too late. Most on this site heavily advise you to do this service yourself and not at some shop. yes, a cruiser shop should do a good job, but this is a very good thing to do to learn more about your truck. If you have no desire to learn about it, and there is nothing wrong with that, then I'm sure some others will post estimates they have received for the work.
 
At 88 k miles it is un-common for stub-shafts (birfs) to click, even in a vehicle with questionable maintinence. it is POSSIBLE that the joint was not properly packed during the service and thay MAY be what is going on. The only way to know for sure is to tear the axle down and take a look.



D-
 
after 3000K the shop should be willing to take it apart and see what happened. I bet it is just a bad bierfield due to age or act of god. Seal kit is around $80 and 3-5 hrs labor to pull it and check it all out then back in with new seals. Could also be ft wheel bearings.
 
ok, there is replacing the seal and then there is complete front axle service.

It is was a quick seal replace, then the birfield would not have been checked. It is was a axle service, the shop should have know to take the birfield apart, clean and inspect it. But most other shops will just pull it out, clean the knuckle out, clean the birfield while assembled and everything back together with new seals. If you do not dis-assemble the birfield, you might not pick up that it is worn.

whether they should check it for free is up in the air because it depends on what you asked for and what they advised when they did the job. Since you mention that you do not have the mechanical knowledge we must assume you went with their recommendtation. So I would ask them if they noticed any wear when they did the job.

The birfields can be rebuilt, however the parts used are not as strong as oem. However they work fine for street trucks that run stock size tires.

It is not going to break under normal use, it is just anoying. A clicking birfield might break when subjected to heavy off-road use and large oversize tires.

Complete axle service is about 8-10 hours, depending on if the trunion bearings are replaced. This involves pulling the knuckle apart completely and replacing all seals and gaskets. Clean and repack wheen bearings and replace trunion bearings. Take birfield apart and clean and repack. Parts vary if you use Toyota oem or aftermarket kits.

Job can be more if you need to replace other worn parts like spindles, wheel bearings etc.
 
Monkey,

Find your bill and tell us what work was done. Your description sounds like a simple seal replacement and it's anybody's guess what seal they chose to replace. Price, parts, description, hours billed.

DougM
 
If the birfs were repacked or are going to be repacked make sure a moly-fortified grease is used as well. A lot of shops that work on cruisers haven't worked on the full time rigs and may not be aware of the different needs even though the internals of the front axle are very similar.
 
Here's how the invoice for the seal repair reads:

"Front axle knuckle seals leaking, customer authorized knuckle seal replacement at this time."

The charge for this (also had the oil changed) was $668.

Here is a list of the parts on the invoice with part #, quantity and total price listed in order in parenthesis:

Seal, Wheel (90311-62001, 2, $21.44)
Seal (90310-35010, 2, $14.20)
Gasket (43422-60060, 2, $3.34)
Cap (43423-35010, 2, $6.60)
Lock Washer (90215-42025, 2, $4.26)
Seal (43204-60031, 2, $55.68)
Gasket (43435-60020, 2, $2.28)
Gasket (43436-60011, 2, $2.52)
Grease (632, 4, $17.88)

I spoke with my mechanic today and he told me to bring it in on Thursday and we will go for a test drive. He said if it was a bad birf, that it would cost about $800 total. According to my mechanic, the birf itself costs $615.

Thanks to all for your help!
 
I'm not an expert on P/N's but have done the birf job. I literally see every seal there except the inner axle seals. My guesses are in caps:

Seal, Wheel (90311-62001, 2, $21.44) WHEEL BEARING INNER SEAL
Seal (90310-35010, 2, $14.20) WHEEL BEARING OUTER SEAL
Gasket (43422-60060, 2, $3.34) DRIVE PLATE GASKET
Cap (43423-35010, 2, $6.60) GREASE CAPS
Lock Washer (90215-42025, 2, $4.26) WHEEL BEARING WASHER
Seal (43204-60031, 2, $55.68) 3 PIECE OUTER KNUCKLE SEAL SET - FELT/STEEL/RUBBER
Gasket (43435-60020, 2, $2.28) GASKET BEHIND SPINDLE
Gasket (43436-60011, 2, $2.52) GASKET BEHIND BRAKE DUST SHIELD
Grease (632, 4, $17.88) GREASE THAT IS NOW FULL OF DIFF OIL BECAUSE THERE'S NO INNER AXLE SEAL HERE THAT SHOULD SEPARATE THE OIL FROM YOUR BIRF GREASE.


If I'm correct, this is a mechanical blunder on the 80's front axle that is quite common. The mechanic sees oil coming out a seal (the triple seal above) and replaces it rather than doing some research and seeing that there's an inner axle seal that's letting thin oil get to those leaking seals, which are only designed to hold back thick grease.

Someone with a parts book can confirm whether there's an inner seal there. If not, this guy should come clean and realize he was 5 minutes from being able to replace the correct seal after all those hours of work and did not do it. If I'm correct, this also means he did not pull the birfield out to properly repack it because if he did, he would be staring right at the seal. Cdan? Anyone w/ a parts book?

DougM
 
would that be 4 tubes of grease?
must have filled the knuckle then?
E
 
The inner axle tube seal is p/n 90310-35010

The outer wheel bearings don't have seals.

-B-
 
not sure if it was four tubes of grease or not. Invoice just said "Grease - quantity 4"

Jeez - now I am really getting confused!
 
the wulf is right,
they charged you to replace the inner axle seal,
here will be the kicker, If you want to be there for him to tear it down I would be. if when you open up hte knuckle cavity goo comes a pouring out either the seal was not replaced or was done incorrectly. I did not notice the snap ring for the stub shaft in that invoice list so my money is on they cleaned out the bell with spray cleaner and shoved some new grease in there. there is a voic in the grease and a stub shaft with some wear hence the clicking.
Dave
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom